Search results

I would doubt it --- get the Parts Manual for your application. That will give you the part numbers for your specific loader. Parts manuals don't cost a dime --- no reason not to have one.

Brackets and pins. If you wanted to, I suppose you could make bushings for the brackets but all in all the brackets are pretty cheap and can be bought new. As can the pins --- so inspect to figure out which is worn and buy replacements. I bought my parts from www.tractorsmart.com. I'm not...

My money is on the battery ---------------- get it checked again. Make sure they "load check" it.

I doubt that you could see it in the Parts Manual. See post #3 and get someone to help you as you turn the engine by hand.

Or ---- you have a bad battery under load. I know that you said you had the battery tested and it tested OK. Did they "load check" it?? The battery needs to hold 12.0 volts with the key in the start position ----

Cylinders are numbered front to back -- number 1 is closest to front end/water pump. Your flyheel is marked on the back end with both a number 1 cylinder TDC timing mark and a fuel injection timing mark. The "peep hole" is on the brake pedal side of the bell housing at about 3 o'clock. It may...

No -- the hydraulics will self bleed. Just cycle things a few times.

The oil pressure is easy --- put it where the idiot light sensor already is.

My opinion: You need all three the Service manual (WSM) and parts manual are most important. Check E-Bay for WSM. You can get a pdf parts manual at no charge from www.tractorsmart.com. Just check out the Manuals section and enter the info requested for the parts mannuals that you want.

The hose that you broke functions as a "return to tank" when the BH isn't on --- You need that return to tank in order to complete the hydraulic loop if there isn't another one. I think you'll fix your problem if you replace the hose and take out the plug.

What is "the lower fill point"? I didn't know that there was such a thing.

I would agree with that ----- but I would think any zerk would work just fine.

:) :) :) ---- Thanks --- I feel better now!!

Well, yes and no. I have a rod for each brake also --- so, like you I have two rods. Mine are under the tractor and are horizontal running from the pedal to the brake actuator. So, while the physical arrangement is different, they should work about the same. I'm probably not the best one to help...

No --- I can only speak for my tractor --- it's a B20. I have a turnbuckle on both ends -- one at the pedal end and one on the brake actuating lever itself. Both end have jam nuts on the ends of a threaded rod to lock each end in place. The rod connects both turnbuckles. I loosen the jam nuts on...

If it works like mine, you don't turn the "turnbuckle". It stays stationary --- you turn the rod itself once the jam nuts are loose.

Pete, the knob under the seat only serves to adjust how fast you want the 3ph to drop. It's just a little valve that regulates how fast the hydraulic oil escapes from the 3ph cylinder. You raise/lower the 3ph with the lever just to the right of the seat right in front of the throttle. Raising...

Someone may be able to provide an exact answer, but that won't be me. Best I can do for you is suggest that you check the outside of the rear wheel to see if there isn't a date stamped in it --- that'll be close.

I'm guessing that you don't have a Parts Manual. You can get a free pdf parts manual at www.tractorsmart.com. Just enter the manuals section and select your equipment. They have manuals for three versions of the L4610. You'll receive an E-Mail with the manuals attached. You should then be able...

FWIW, I've settled on Napa Gold filters for everything except the hydro filter. I buy that one from the dealer cause I haven't found any non OEM filter that meets the filter spec.