Search results

Yes, I have mine --- same advice as before. The original WSM that you can find on E-Bay is better than the copies that the dealers sell today. They show up at a pretty regular frequency on E-Bay. They go for $50 - $100 depending on seller and the condition of the manual.

What's the integrity of the fuel in the tank?

It may be a pressure problem. What is the system pressure??? Should be 1700 - 2000 psi. I don't know the specific spec for your tractor, but the supply pressure is normally in that range. You may not know what it is ---- this can be a dangerous system to experiment with so, if you don't...

Check "Surplus Center". www.surpluscenter.com Here's one that may work --- you need to verify for yourself that it'll do what you want: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4782&catname=hydraulic

Happy to help --- let me know if you need more.

In the light of day, I took a better look. While those E-Bay lower links are the correct length, they aren't quite the right shape. My lower links have more of a "dog leg" in them as you move from front to back than the E-Bay arms have. My arms also have several holes front to back where the...

Let me look a little closer in the daylight tomorrow. I'll advise after that --- length wise they look the same and mine are pretty straight just like those, so far so good I would say.

I see lower links, side shift stabilizers and a top link. I don't see the lift links (arms) that connect the lower links to teh rock shaft lift arms. I recognize teh PTO shaft and then there's stuff I don't recognize --------

I'll go on record saying that you don't even want to try it --- find a good fuel injection shop and have them look at it.

Not clear whether you mean the horizontal lower links or the vertical lift arms that connect the lower links to teh rock shaft arms. I assume you meant the horizontal lower links. I get about 24 3/4" ---- tractor is in the shed and it's dark in there. Hitch category geometry is defined by...

Well, if I were you, I would just head to a good auto parts store. Me --- I use NAPA. Buy a decent grease gun --- no need to worry about SAE/Metric --- and a good tube of grease that meets your spec. You'll be set. The more important point, as you said, is to keep it grreased.

Yes --- try "Rimguard". It won't fix the current damage but it won't create any more.

When you have "all the dots lined up" do you also have #1 cylinder at top dead center -- sounds like it's 180 degrees out ---- that would mean that #1 is at bottom dead center when you have all your dots lined up.

Agree --- by all means, rebuild. You don't want to be paying for new cylinders. Call your dealer and get the price for that new cylinder -----

I found this on TBN. Don't know how accurate it is but you might try following it to see if you can find the parts. I doubt that you have brake lights that are enabled. Here it is: "Gentlemen, this will blow your mind. Kubota's L series DOES have provisions for working brake lights(at least the...

Are you sure that you have brake lights?

Small indeed!! Happy Thanksgiving to you. Yes, we're right off the #118 at Center School Road. My tractor is pretty much a hobby --- I do a little real work now and then as it comes my way. Always looking to do more --- let me know if I can help.

Try adjusting the top link so that the blade is more vertical ----- you may need to play with it a little.

Correct --- the detent spool will be longer. The process works like this from the operator's standpoint: Push the joystick forward and the loader goes down --- loader starts to lift front of tractor --- push joystick further forward to a soft "pop" ---- tractor front end drops and loader stays...

Here's what I'm doing: 1. Bought a new, correct dipstick for my engine. 2. Manage to the full mark on my dipstick. I don't even know how many litres or quarts it is -----------------