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trying to disassemble the hydraulic control lever of my Kobota B1600 because it is broken. Anyone any experience? Any clues, or caveats?

I've been working on a D1005 in a B2320 tractor. It was very hard starting but once it warmed up it ran smooth. I had the valves machined and resurfaced the head. The issue is there are no timing marks anywhere! My timing method is to put a straight piece of welding rod into the glow plug hole. On the intake stroke while you rotate the engine hold onto the welding rod until it reaches TDC and adjust your valves (.006-.007) intake and exhaust. Most of the diesel kits cost from $50 to $500. The adapter is really the main issue since the glow plugs are 8mm x 1.0 thread. All of the kits came with a 10mm adapter but no 8mm and without the schrader valve your gauge will not accumulate pressure. I have several snap-on adapters with the schrader valve so I decided to turn one down. I also welded up an injector so I could get a tight seal. Now I can diagnose one of these engines in minutes and know exactly what I'm working with.

Mx6000 tractor

Nor Cal Realtor
L175 w/bush hog

Hello,
I've been living on your rear remote write up.. Reread it every constantly as plans change. Most recent version is they send the wrong size banjo fitting, so I was looking at the 90 degree for the 3 PH. From what I gather Kubota's 90 is unique and fits in there. They have one locally for $7 so might try that instead of waiting for banjo. (Or bolt..., Summit uses a 3/8 banjo instead of 14 mm, and then includes a different bolt.)

Just curious where abouts in Michigan you are, I'm in Coloma. If you were close enough I would have bought you 12 pack of Dr. Pepper before I started this project for a chance to look at your work.

Thanks for all your detailed information,
Mike