Replaced head gasket....next step?

[meanjean]

I replaced the head gasket on my L-1801.
I was advised to check/adjust the valves as they now may be too tight.

Does this sound proper?

Provided it's a yes, can someone please let me know how to find TDC and also provide the correct gap for the valves.

Thanks in advance,

Mean Jean

 

[meanjean]

I managed to track down the clearances courtesy of Service Department Vic in a prior thread.
.007-.009 inch, cold, at TDC.

Question
How do I find TDC?

Thanks all.

 

[eserv]

When the rockers are "rocking" (that is,one valve starting to open and the other just closing) that cylinder is on TDC but the wrong stroke! you must turn the engine another complete turn then you can set those two valves. works for any engine

 

[eserv]

And yes, If you changed the head gasket the valve clearance must be reset.
Ed

 

[meanjean]

Is it correct that cylinder #1 is closest to the flywheel?

How will I know what a "complete turn" is?
Can I scratch a mark on the fly wheel bolt and make note of when it does one more complete revolution?

I think I've got this figured.
I will tool around with it tonight.

The bolt for turning the engine over is in suck a bad spot, going to be a pain!

 

[meanjean]

here is where the bolt is.

 

[bruceatlam]

Cylinders are numbered front to back -- number 1 is closest to front end/water pump.

Your flyheel is marked on the back end with both a number 1 cylinder TDC timing mark and a fuel injection timing mark. The "peep hole" is on the brake pedal side of the bell housing at about 3 o'clock. It may have a rubber plug in it ---. Line up the timing mark with a timing line stamped into the bell housing. Once I found my timing mark, I highlighted it with a dab of white paint --- makes it easier to find. The timing mark should be stamped on the edge of the flywheel with 1TC or such and the fuel injection timing mark is stamped FI or such. You'll need a good flashlight and a helper will come in handy. I rotated my engine by hand by laying on my back and using the front hydraulic pump coupling to rotate the engine. Once you have a 1TC reference mark, you can reference a mark on that coupling and know when you've rotated 180 deg or 360 deg.

 

[eserv]

You don't have to be exactly on tdc close is good enough!

 

[Orange Tractors]

Is it correct that cylinder #1 is closest to the flywheel?

How will I know what a "complete turn" is?
Can I scratch a mark on the fly wheel bolt and make note of when it does one more complete revolution?

I think I've got this figured.
I will tool around with it tonight.

The bolt for turning the engine over is in suck a bad spot, going to be a pain!

#1 is farthest from the flywheel.

I have always bumped the starter to turn the engine over. You want the engine on TDC during the compression stroke. The easiest way I have found to do this is to bump the stater until both the intake and exhaust valves are closed, meaning the rockers are loose.

Do one cylinder, then rotate the engine until the nect one comes up on compression stroke.

Adjusting valve lash is not a hard job, it has just been forgotten about since cars started having hydraulic lifters.

Robert

 

[meanjean]

Thanks all for the advise.
This is one job I've never had to do although I'm confident I will figure it out.
I will let you know how it goes.

 

[meanjean]

For the life of me, I can't find the spyhole.
I have a loader and maybe the extra hardware is hiding it?
I looked thru the parts book and did not find reference to the spyhole.

Suggestions?

 

[bruceatlam]

I doubt that you could see it in the Parts Manual. See post #3 and get someone to help you as you turn the engine by hand.

 

[meanjean]

Quote eserv
you must turn the engine another complete turn then you can set those two valves

How do I knoow what a compete turn is if I can't see the flywheel?
I need some point of reference to mark 1 full revolution.

 

[birddogger]

How do I knoow what a compete turn is if I can't see the flywheel?
I need some point of reference to mark 1 full revolution.

Pull the starter motor. Using a sharpened hardwood lever, work against the teeth on the flywheel gear. When you find TDC, mark a tooth at the edge of the opening with chalk. Now go around one more time till the mark lines up again.

 

[meanjean]

Brilliant!

I will try this tonight.

Regards,

Mean Jean

 

[eserv]

On a four cylinder engine it is even easier than that. You adjust the valves on #4 cylinder when #1 is rocking, on #1 when #4 is rocking, on #3 when #2 is rocking and on #2 when #3 is rocking. Rocking means when the one valve on a particular cylinder is just closing and the other valve is just beginning to open. This is commonly called "overlap". It doesn't matter which way you turn the engine.
Ed

 

[CobraTom]

For the life of me, I can't find the spyhole.
I have a loader and maybe the extra hardware is hiding it?
I looked thru the parts book and did not find reference to the spyhole.

Suggestions?

spyhole is between the two large bolts on the side of your block where your loader mounts, that bracket it covering up the hole.

 

[meanjean]

That's the worst news I've heard all day.

I will need to remove the loader and RH bracket to get to the spyhole.

Removing the start is a negative.
I believe they built the tractor around it, top bolt is inaccessible.

Fart!

So......next idea?

 

[birddogger]

So from that first picture you posted of the inconvenient placement of the bolt. I see you don't have the valve cover isn't off at that point. The valve adjusters are under there right? Get that off. Pull out the glow plugs. Carefully feel down the glow holes with a plastic coffee stir stick. Hopefully you will feel the piston tops at different depths. Now that there's no compression you may be able to turn it by hand on the water pump pully. If not you gotta use that bolt. Feel #1 piston with the plastic probe while you turn it. The stick will come up, up, up then go back down. Back up to TDC and check the push rods for #1. Can you feel slack or rotate the push rods? that would be where you want to be. Is one of them higher that the other? now you are the 360 degrees away from where you want to be, turn it again and feel it with the plastic stick till it reaches the top. Keep that probe straight up and down so it doesn't jam between the piston and cylinder wall. DO NOT use a metal probe (well, maybe a soft copper wire). Do not let go of the probe and let it fall into the cylinder. same #2, same 3.

 

[meanjean]

I now have multiple methods of adjusting the valves.
I will read thru each tonight and commit to a game plan.

last options:
I've been using the tractor as is and it sounds fine.
Starts proper, lots of power....

Any votes for "fine as is"?