L2900 won't start, nor do lights work for a while after I tried to start

[doobie]

I have a L2900 with around 1,000 hours. If the tractor has sat for a while, the lights will work. When I turn the key to start the tractor I hear nothing, but the lights will stop working (on the dash and the running/hazards). I do not hear the starter piston(?) pushing the gear out or the gears spinning. If the hazards are on I hear some clicking (relay?) in the dash, but the lights don't come on.

I checked the 6 fuses I see at the left foot and the one near the starter, all are good.

I took the battery in to be tested, they said it was good. I replaced the cables and terminals to the battery, both for the hot and ground. I had other starting problems earlier in the year, that were related to the battery and cables so those were changed then.

I popped the starter out and took it to get tested. They said it was good and I saw and heard it extend and spin.

I wiggled every lever thinking maybe a hydraulic lock. I tried finding/testing the safety switches but I figure I don't know where most of them are, nor do I know where they go or how to get to any central place to test for them.

Any other suggestions of what to check or what might be wrong?

 

[firejunkie]

Key switch (or wire to key switch)or relay maybe? The lights going out are an indicator of a complete loss of power on the assesory/run side of the circut.

 

[Bulldog]

My M 9000 did the exact same thing last year to me. I had replaced the battery and cleaned the cables a short time before it happened. Went to start it after running all day and it wouldn't do anything. Lights on the dash would go out and the starter wouldn't hit a lick. After it sat for a little bit all the dash lights would work until I tried to start it and then back thru the same thing again. The problem ended up being the cables. They looked good but after I removed them they had a thin film on them and wouldn't make a good contact with the battery post. I tried to clean them with a battery brush and it wouldn't touch this film whatever it was. I had to scrape this stuff out and after it was gone the tractor cranked right up and have never had any more problems. This may not be what is wrong with yours but I would double check the cables and posts.

 

[bruceatlam]

Or ---- you have a bad battery under load. I know that you said you had the battery tested and it tested OK. Did they "load check" it?? The battery needs to hold 12.0 volts with the key in the start position ----

 

[johneich]

Just my .o2c, sure sounds like cables, I would check, 1) frame ground, 2) starter wires and 3) positive cable
John

 

[doobie]

So I took the cables in to Lowe's to replace them, but they didn't really have a cable matching the gauge of the cable and the strands. I think the cable I had is a 2/0 stranded with 16 or 18 gauge, but the wire at Lowe's was stranded with 12 or 14 gauge. I didn't know how well that would work; they also didn't have the crimps for the other end of the cable where they attach to the starter/engine. Where is a good place to get replacements? Is there somewhere online or do you know if Tractor Supply Company carries the wires/crimps?

Thanks!

 

[firejunkie]

Why replace the wires willy nilly if you are not sure they are the problem? Test them with a multimeter or a simple test light when hooked up will tell you where you have and/or don't have power. A test light will cost you less than ten bucks, a cheap multimeter can be found for less than 15. Two simple but effective tools can help you now and later down the road from replacing parts that may or may not be bad. See if you have power from the battery to the fuse block, using the chassis ground ( using the chassis as the ground will insure you have at least a ground to chassis) check for power going to and from the key switch etc.

 

[doobie]

Why replace the wires willy nilly if you are not sure they are the problem? Test them with a multimeter or a simple test light when hooked up will tell you where you have and/or don't have power. A test light will cost you less than ten bucks, a cheap multimeter can be found for less than 15. Two simple but effective tools can help you now and later down the road from replacing parts that may or may not be bad. See if you have power from the battery to the fuse block, using the chassis ground ( using the chassis as the ground will insure you have at least a ground to chassis) check for power going to and from the key switch etc.

I know the wires work; they are a bit corroded so I'm feeling like they aren't getting sufficient current through. There is voltage across at the fuse block<->chassis. I have power at they key switch *sometimes* though only if the tractor sits a while and once I turn the key then the power goes out; after that it takes anywhere from 12-24+ hours to come back to "life"

 

[bruceatlam]

I know the wires work; they are a bit corroded so I'm feeling like they aren't getting sufficient current through. There is voltage across at the fuse block<->chassis. I have power at they key switch *sometimes* though only if the tractor sits a while and once I turn the key then the power goes out; after that it takes anywhere from 12-24+ hours to come back to "life"

My money is on the battery ---------------- get it checked again. Make sure they "load check" it.

 

[doobie]

GOT it. I cut the exposed wire off the ground and positive cable and stripped a new part of the wire and used new terminals. After charging the battery she turned over. I can see the wires are still corroded even though I exposed new parts of the wire. Winter is coming and I'd rather not have to deal with tractor issues again this year. Anyone know what type of cable I can use to replace the cables and where I can get connectors for the chassis and starter for the new cable? Thanks!

 

[eserv]

Clean that all up with a baking soda and water solution till the corrosion is all gone then install a new end, finally seal it all up with Vaseline to prevent corrosion happening again! You should be golden!
Ed

 

[dallcow43]

I have a Kubota b7200hst that just shut off, no lights no key no nothing. Looking at the battery and cables , battery read 12 volts then looked at the cables and the negative cable had been spliced and the splice came loose. Re spliced and she fired up. Just luck it was easy!