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The radiator is very simple to remove with the engine in place. Just remove the alternator, remove the 4 bolts holding the shroud and move it forward. Remove the hoses and lift the radiator out. I have personal done it several times, takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to R&R.

Check the suction hose for cracks or splits. Its very common and results in sucking air and no hydraulics.

They governor is mounted in front of the injection pump. (EDIT: added pic as you can link to Kubota's site, it doesn't work) ;)

It is just the paint on the rubber cracking / peeling. The bushing is fine.

Need to pressure test for forward servo or relief valve failure. If it has power in reverse then swash plate and rotating group are OK.

Low fluid level will not keep the PTO from disengaging.

There are four 17mm head bolts through final drive into the frame toward the rear and four 12mm headed bolts through the final drive into the hydro state housing. Final drive will now slide off, there is a loose gear and collar that may stay with the final or stay with hydro. Note the gear's...

Drain the final drive into a clean pan and see it it has metal in it. Also check to see that your brake is not stuck on. You can also remove the final drive and run the hydro to see if the sound or feel changed.

Gear shift in neutral, clutch pedal depressed, PTO in OFF position should allow it to crank. Work each one while holding key in Start position. Also check your fuses.

What the manual states is correct, the filter head has a return line coming out the top and going straight to the tank that bleeds it. B series tractors do not have electric fuel pumps.

Yes, it is possible to do it.

Some what common problem. The large line is you suction pipe to the hydraulic pump. Just loosen the banjo bolt a little and screw on your filter. You should remove the banjo bolt as it has a screen attached to it and clean the screen. Their is an o-ring on each side of the tube to seal it, you...

The switch has nothing to do with engagement of Front axle. Spray the pivot down and work lever back and forth. Some times they get a build up and hangup.

It is the selling dealers responsibility to inspect the unit prior to delivery. There is an inspection sheet that must be filled out for Kubota, checking all fluid levels are on the sheet. Sounds like someone at the dealership checked the unit while sitting at their desk.

Either your primary RH tank filter, vent or check in the fuel supply line Tee is plugged.

Second on Open Center

The fenders are attached with bolts screwed into the grab handles, loosen the front bolt and remove the rear bolt on each side. There is a metal strap between the front and rear bolts, swing it out of the way and the fenders are loose. Replacing the hydro cooling fan is really very simple...

All L245 tractors take the same key, just get one or two from your dealer. I will check on the wiring diagram.

It's just the nature of the beast. I've seen more of them that do it than not. If you listen at the draw bar and go listen next to the muffler you will here the same harmonics. I'm not sure what the answer is to why they do it but I have seen several with 2500 hours plus and no adverse affects.

No, your injection pump is not creating pressure in the crankcase. What model of mower is it?