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On both my M9000's it listed first change @50 hrs. Change filters @300 hrs. Then full service again @600 hrs. My L3000 was first @50 hrs Full service @400 hrs.

The only difference in changing sudt2 at 50 hrs and changing the older sudt or udt is the sudt2 cost more. It still has the same metal filings in the case just like it always did. I just can't make myself run it for 400 hrs. Any way you look at it oil is cheaper than repair.

I've bought 3 new tractors and all 3 said to change hyd fluid at 50hrs. I don't care what the new manuals say after seeing the amount of metal filings that came out I will always change fluid at 50. To me that's the most important one of the tractors life.

I'd start with the fuel line that goes from the tank to the primary filter. Also check the fittings that go into the filters. Known to get trash in those and plug them up.

Strainer only catches big chunks. Just filter your fuel before it goes in the tractor.

If it was mine I'd start over with new oil and filter.

And I'd either make a new shield or order one from the dealer. If not you'll have nothing but problems. That line needs protection very bad.

Seems most are saying it's fine but I'll go the other way. I put a bh on my B7100 and made it into a all but useless machine. At that time I had a tilt deck trailer and even pulling all the way to the front I couldn't make the deck tilt back down. Had to load it backwards. Any hill at all and...

TSC has tanks, or Northern Tool. I'd recommend a Fill-rite pump. I prefer the push/pull type to the rotary but that just a personal preference. Either will work and even though they're more expensive it worth the money in the long run.

Even if it would only lift 1/4 of a pallet that would impress me for a lawn mower sized machine.

Like BigG said it needs to be drained and washed. Algea can really make a mess and hard to get it all out. I had seen it be bad enough that it looked like dirt in the tank and be hard as a brick. If it's still slimy it's easier to deal with but without washing it out it will continue to be a...

I welded chain hook to the top of mine and hang it from a post in my shed.

Probably the best thing is to drain the tank and wash it out until nothing but clean fuel comes out. If not you'll continue to change filters until it's all gone.

Amsoil heavy duty metal protector works good for that. Sprays on liquid and dries like wax. Doesn't attract dust.

Temperature will affect the fluid level. Always check it cold to get the most accurate reading. Middle of the glass sitting on level ground.

These kids now days don't know what a vehicle should sound like. Loud is better is all they think about. Even my own son talked about cutting the flow masters off my F150 he drives and straight pipe it. I told him that strange burning feeling he was about the experience would be my foot in his...

Sounds like the wife should run the push mower for a while. Won't take long you'll get to cut the limbs and put the top back on.

I'd mow that sideways with my batwing.

The need to correct will depend on the pitch of the road. If it's a flat road not much correction is needed. If it has pitch to the right or left the tractor will follow and you'll need to correct. Every hydrostatic steer tractor I've been on is that way.

I just watched the video and I'd say that's normal for hyd steering. With the extra weight of the loader on there the tires are getting plenty of bite and while turning slow it doesn't have enough flow to make them turn. I bet if you lift the front tires off the ground it will work fine. Just...