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That's just a load check. Should be able to polish that spool with really fine emory cloth and be back in business, providing there's no damage in the valve body or the spool isnt gouged too deep

The switch will stay with the panel, the connectors are white, should be 2 of them. Easiest to see looking from the back of the tractor, right hand side.

Oil is constantly circulating thru that line, and that fitting, when the machine is running. That fitting acts as a bit of a restriction, which causes more heat.

I would use compressed air if you can clean it out, as it won't attract more dirt. If you can't get the radiator completely clean, cleaning it with water just makes it worse, then you make mud.

Is there an inspection plug that you can pull out of the bottom and spray some penetrating oil on the bearing holder tube? Just dont get it on the clutch. Disconnect your linkage at the throw out shaft, and see if it returns normally. If not, you got something going on in the bellhousing, but...

Check your 3pt top limit. If it's set too high, the pump will stay on pressure and the relief valve will stay open, causing the oil to heat up faster. Best way to test it is to lower the 3pt just a bit and see if you notice a change in the way it sounds.

If a guy is in high range, and doesn't know how to ease into a pile with the loader, he's going to sit there and ride the clutch. There's some people that don't know any better

Re: repair Safety switch I would bet. Does it start if you jump the solenoid at the starter? Make sure it's not in gear when doing that

It's just because you're moving at such a high rate of speed, for so long. The new RTV-X's do the same thing, people think they have an oil leak and all it is is the mist of oil coming out of the breather, running down against the back of the cylinder head, and dripping off the machine

Can you feel a "click" as in a detent when you shift between mid and rear pto? If you pull the left side rear tire off, check to make sure that the pin isnt sheared on the lever. If that appears ok, there's a plug behind the shifter before it goes into the trans, that has a spring and small...

Between that, and the fact that I think they're undersized. They're only about a 9" disc, its not much bigger than the one I pulled from my Farmall A, and that's not an exaggeration

When operating at full throttle, with the pedal down to the floor in high range, you should be stopped in 10ft from the point you let off the pedal. That is "spec"

Engine oil and filter, would recommend a fuel filter (they're cheap), hyd filters, and change the front axle oil to 80-90 gear lube

LOL, how do you think the guys feel that work on them every day? You're not wrong.....

Not uncommon, just keep an eye on oil level.

Have done 2 clutches on MX5100's, one at 51 hours, other at 203 hours. Can't ride them, or they will slip.

Those brass sealing rings should not come out that hard, an o ring pick should do it

Re: Water Separator New Kubota diesels with Tier 4 emissions are compatible with a B-5 Biodiesel. Do yourself a favor and just don't bother running the stuff on newer equipment. With the high fuel rail pressure from the supply pump, it's just asking for trouble.....

Fix the PTO clutch before the bearing goes out and the balls fall into the trans. Not fond of the GR series, AT ALL

A lot of the B7300's I've seen are a plain jane tractor. No power steering, and not even a temperature gauge.