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Standard L's are louder than Grand L's. They're an economy tractor, if you want more plush, you need a Grand L

Most smaller Kubota engines require you to do what they call a "spill test" for injection pump timing. It's a crude and inefficient way to do it in my opinion, but it does work. Removing the injection lines, and removing the plug on the bellhousing to gain access to viewing the flywheel...

When it comes to replacing suction filters on a Kubota hyd system, you gotta be fast. They aren't operator friendly.

It's a bit excessive, but who knows the last time it was cleaned. More than likely, those are shavings from the gears. They may be wore a bit, but not enough that I'd tear into it. If it were HST shavings from the valve plates, they wouldn't stick to the magnet as they're a brass alloy. Not...

I'm pretty sure it was the 40 series that they updated, but maybe I'm thinking of a different model.

Take the pressure plate off and inspect the clutch disc, making sure it isn't oil soaked. I also would replace the input shaft seal on the tranmission while you're in there. More than likely, you're going to need the updated housing for the input shaft, and when you put it in there, make sure...

You need a set of crowsfoot wrenches.

The time you run into using a special fitting, is when it's a banjo bolt, especially if it's coming from the pump. It's what they call BPPT, or British Pipe Parallel Thread, and it's hard to find a place that has them, and they are expensive. I'm saying if you had that much "glitter", a charge...

If you're talking about the line that runs from the pump to the back of the tractor to the other side, it may be the line itself cracked. The 50 and 60 series BX's were steel, then they replaced them to a rubber line on the later 60's and 70 series. If it is just the nut that's lose, an open...

If you cancatch them with your fingernail, you need to replace them. I would say as much flakes as you found, you'll be replacing them and the pistons at the very least.

Was the flakes kind of gold colored? If so, that's the valve plates that have been scored and ended up in the oil. If that's the case, more than likely going to need a HST

What is your issue? As far as I know, there's no tech phone number for customer's, only dealers.

With loader and subframe removal, and powerwashing time, you should be able to do it in less than 25hrs. Cab, add another ~5hrs.

More than likely, the tractor wouldn't have enough GPM to run an orbit motor. That's one thing Kubota's seem to lack in, hydraulics.

If you have a run away motor, you leave the area, dont try to stop it. You aren't going to do anything to keep it from doing any less damage. If it runs away, you're going to have to tear it down for a rebuild anyways. It's not worth risking your life to stop.

Replace the couplers that you unhook for the power beyond for the backhoe. Typically if one goes bad, it's the female. However, if your pump isnt "laboring", I'd think something could have happened to your pump. Need to do a flow test and test relief pressure also.

Take off both ends of the cable and slide it in and out and see if it moves smoothly. If it doesn't just replace the cable, it's not worth trying to get cleaned out. That spring should be more than heavy enough to return that cable if it's not binding.

Not without a code.

The 40 series are harder to do, especially if it has a cab. That estimate isnt too far off.

To add to what Wolfman said, make sure you're on level ground when checking it, and it's best to check it before you start for the day. If you happen to forget to check it after you've already moved it, wait atleast 10 minutes before you pull the level plug to make sure the oil returns from the...