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The wiring diagram is in the WorkShop Manual for the L3200 and L3800. Wolfman may have it on his website, otherwise a search of this forum should find an electronic copy. The fuses are on the left side of the console. There are a couple of slow blow 40A which are around the starter circuits...

The accessory connector on my L3800 is a T shape. I've had good luck with powerwerx for finding and ordering odd connectors. They're on the web.

If you're talking about the two wires coming off the engine stop solenoid, they are tied together in the wiring harness. The engine stop solenoid relay coil is supplied power through the safety circuit, or operator presence control (OPC). I would tap in a indicator between the relay and OPC...

Maintenance chart is in the Operator's Manual, Models L3200, L3800. Code TC420-1971-2. It not only tells you when but how for the simple jobs.

The L3800HST switch is on top of the deck. The HST pedal moves links under the deck to actuate the switch. But the switch is by the right foot, mounted on a flange.

I would start at the PTO lever, follow the cable and at the other end find the lever. The cable is pinned at each end to the respective levers. Check to see if the cable is actually moving the lever when the hand PTO lever is moved.

First I would check all of the fuses. The next thing would be diodes such as in the electrical charge system. If the fuses are good, then it sounds that a diode(s) could be destroyed.

Pioneer 3/8 O ring: 3/4" ID, 15/16" OD, and 3/32" thickness.

The hydraulic oil filter on the right side is HH3AO-82623. The transmission oil filter on the left side is HHK7O-14070. Sorry I don't know if a _30 will work for a _23. But the _23 is what's on my machine (L3800HST).

Mower greased and lubed? Blades turn freely when off the tractor PTO? Running at a lower RPM is not a good fix, as the blade tip velocity will be inefficient, requiring more power.

With a locked compressor, I would be worried about loose stuff in the system. I would go ahead and replace the expansion valve and dryer. The evaporator and condenser I would blow counterflow with nitrogen, and a rag to catch any junk coming out of either. Then you can make a decision about...

When you say voltage light, I think you mean charge lamp. The charge lamp is part of the field excitation circuit. It is more than a warning light. Most likely it is ON because of a bad connection. Two wires go from the lamp back to the charger. I would look first at the connections on that...

Thinking that you already know the answer. The WSM will give you the valve spring setting load. It is probably twice what you have now. You would need to compress a given distance and measure the pressure to compress. Sounds like you could skip that step and put in new springs.

Hood up, right side of tractor. From fuel filter or oil filter, go up at about a 45 degree angle and perpendicular to engine center line. Cylinder with wiring connector on front of engine. For doing your own maintenance, a workshop manual and illustrated parts list are a big time saver.

Happy, let me affirm D2cat's advice. You're fine doing the research and tracking down parts and vendors. But let hubby be part of the decision-making.

Just to be clear, with the switch removed, I would make a jumper to go into the connector. Then see if the fuse blows. If it does, then the problem is downstream or in the connector. If you don't have pins to fab a jumper, then fold the bare end of the jumper wire until it stays in the female...

I think that I would check the grounds first. Imagine a battery, switch, and relay coil in a circuit. The switch is ON and the coil builds its field. When the switch is pressed OFF, the field collapses. When the field collapses, the voltage across the relay coil will go higher than the battery...

Please meet Vito. He handles our rats. Badge? I don't need no stinkin' badge.

The least risk way is to pull the 5 amp fuse and use the ohmmeter. Some of the OPC components have dual switches, one 12V hot and the other set grounded. By pulling components from the harness, you can isolate wire runs and look for grounds that should not be there. Any relay coils may give a...

In addition to the things already mentioned, if the inside of the radiator is crudded that can cause overheating. As long as you're opening it it might need fresh antifreeze and distilled water. Could be as simple as a collapsing hose. I would keep looking until the cause is found.