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Thanks a lot for the part no. and PM with WSM link. My local dealer had the lower o-ring (picked up a couple today). I may get to taking it apart tomorrow. The leakage drips out onto the loader frame cross-member and runs off at the front or back. It's hard to see the actual point it's...

Thanks a lot for the help - do you have the part numbers? Closest WSM I have is L355 - has pics but no parts list. My L345 illustrated parts list only shows the fully assembled steering box - no part breakdown or individual part numbers. I'll take it apart and try to match something up...

My L345's power steering box has developed a fluid leak. It leaks at the bottom front cover, directly into the top of the clutch housing, dripping out the housing's bottom weep hole. It leaks enough to empty the reservoir in a couple days. It hasn't soaked the clutch yet - I'd like to fix it...

The knob under the seat is a speed-control/stop valve for downward motion of the hitch. It doesn't affect raising. It can control the drop rate or can hold the 3-point at fixed height. How many levers do you have on the right side of the seat? If there are two, one is for position, the other...

Oops - I looked too quick & thought the big splines looked like a pto end. My bad. Shoulda looked at a L175 transmission parts page (same design). IMO there's more damage than careless shifting would do by itself, like a detent missing on a shifter, allowing the mating gear to float back...

Yes - the severe damage on the (edit) main shaft gears indicate the mating gear was moving axially, not being held in position. Were any snap rings missing when it was taken apart? (edit) paragraph deleted - see post #21 on p. 3

Nice looking L295 ! On the 3pt touch lever there are two nuts. Loosen the outer nut, adjust the inner nut until the lever holds position, re-tighten the outer nut. For the down-force issue, make sure all the joystick cables are moving the valve spools correctly. Sounds like one may need...

Sounds like the end of the shifter has jumped out of its notch in the 1st-2nd rod. It's a simple fix. As the end of the shifter gets worn, vigorous shifting can push it out of its notch. The trans can get stuck in gear and won't shift. With the cover off move the 1st-2nd rod back to...

I'll chime in on doing a compression test too. It really needs 250 psi or more to fire. And it needs to fire on 2 or 3 to keep going. Harbor tool has a cheap ($40) tester that will give you an idea. If these engines sit with a bit of water in the cylinders the rings get stuck in their...

My guess is the hydraulic suction pipe can be removed without taking off a wheel, but no experience with a M6800. The cab version of the workshop manual might be a worthwhile investment.

First step is to get a couple clean new 5-gallon buckets and drain the trans oil. Then take the pipe off (just unbolts) for inspection and repair. If a fuel tank really has to be removed for access, get more clean containers and drain the fuel rather than trying to handle it full. Unless the...

With no voltage at the solenoid wire, a safety switch is likely open somewhere. On my L4150 when the red fusible link was bad the solenoid didn't work and the red dash lights didn't either. Here's a pdf from the factory website showing a couple safety switches to check - on the parking brake...

The two clutch disks are not separately adjustable on these tractors. When the travel disk is worn thin enough to stop driving, travel can be restored by adjusting the external pedal linkage. But the pto clutch may no longer disengage, except with the lever. With the pto clutch always...

Clicking under power can be serious but not always. (possible broken gear teeth or ball bearing). The symptoms sound like incomplete shifter travel, maybe a linkage issue or incomplete clutch disengagement. It's often possible to diagnose linkage travel with one front and one rear wheel...

I don't think so - it doesn't have a dry clutch in the housing so except for being a heluva mess it should work to just drain it now and then.

Re: M5700HDC couch housing If the level of either the engine oil or transmission oil is dropping enough to need a quart to top it up, the leak is going to eventually need to be fixed. But you can buy a lot of oil for the price of splitting a cab tractor. Put a catch pan under it when parked...

If your engine has never been rebuilt, and runs ok now except for the worn rings, it may be an excellent candidate for refreshing by an engine machine shop. For around $1k+/- it could be bored for new 1st oversized rings, new valves, reconditioned head & new gaskets. The existing engine bolts...

Replacing the clutch means splitting the tractor. But be real sure it's the clutch before doing that. PTO clutch failures are very rare. Does the tractor still move ok? Any noises? Did it suddenly stop engaging or was it a gradual failure? On tractors with dual clutch the common failure is...

The direct-injected V1902 was used in several Kubota tractor models. I have one in my L3250 and my neighbor's L3450 has one too. According to TractorData.com the V1902 was used in the L3350 and L3650 as well. Also in my son's Thomas skid-steer T133 and in Bobcat 743's.

1. yes, one return is for exhaust back to the reservoir (trans case), the other is full-pressure to power something else - in this case the 3pt. 2. yes, the relief would lift and prevent damage. I have the same block on my L3250 and sometimes I take the loader off and forget to turn the screw...