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Interesting counter weight in the second pic. I would like a better look at the hyd lift and top link on that tractor. Don't hold out on us now, we need some pics of that sweet looking setup.

I always use a implement for a counter weight when doing loader work and 9 times out of 10 my choice is the box scrape. It hang close to the tractor and is heavy enough for about everthing.

WOW! Traildust finally made it out of the woods. :D

Not sure about the one you have now but thr Rhino RX5 is 12,469 and the 160 is 14,335. The 160 would cut better and is heavier built but Keep in mind the size tractor you are putting it on. The 160 is a medium duty cutter and the RX5 is a entry level. You will get a better cut with the 100...

That sounds like a good price to me. On the tip speed most any of the name brand cutters will have the highest fpm speed. The cheaper cutters most of the time are the slower ones. I had a store brand cutter on my B 7100 and I thought it did okay. I got a 5' Bushhog for my L 3000 and the speed...

More than likely on the bottom side of the controls there will be a cup (sort of) looking deal that normally is held on with 4 bolts that can be removed. It will hold water in it and when it comes off you will find some springs and a few ball bearings and more nasty looking crap than you can...

I would sugjest getting a well built cutter with a high blade tip speed. For one it will cut better and it will be able to take more abuse if it's built a little heavier. Just as a reference the tip speed on my Bushhog SQ600 is 13,000 fpm.

Although I agree that chains and binders are the proper way to secure a load but I hate to see all the orange paint chips being scratched off my tractor. I use ratchet straps with a 5000# load limit and have never had any trouble with them. Just be sure to place them where they won't be going...

My wife found those signs here not to long ago. I wish they had them in Kubota orange.

The control valve is most likely rusted up and needs a good cleaning and lube job.

Take a loader control valve apart to show the proper steps to clean and lubricate it would be another great video to see.

I think Marty394 hit the nail right on the head. It will depend on what you plan to cut. For general use I think a 5' will be the best choice. My L 3000 is about the same size as the 3010 and I find lots of places a 6' would be a challenge to pull through. A 5' is a good fit for cutting ditch...

First off, Mr K and Vic I think you guys have done all Kubota owners proud by creating this site. All of us can gain from being a member of this great place no matter what your experience level. Thinking back to a post where a new owner was given a whole 5 minute overview on his new tractor...

You can get replacement ends that can be welded on. This one can be bought at Tractor Supply. Pat's easy change system now also makes a weld on version.

If it was mine I would change it all out. If you are seeing metal at the filter screen wait until you drain the oil. Be sure to change the front end as well. You will get quite a bit of metal out of the hubs and the chunk.

I just ran into a situation just like this a couple of months ago. I had just replaced the battery in my M 9000 and had cleaned the posts and the cables during the install. The battery had been in the tractor for about a month and the day of my trouble I had ran for about 16hrs mowing hay...

It sounds like you are really having some tuff luck with that mower. On the Scag blades I can tell you this. Scag makes their own blades to their specs and out of some extremely hard metal. They are probably one of the best built blades on the market. As far as coating under you deck I will tell...

It may be the fluid being forced thru the filter. UDT will be harder to pump thru the system than the Super UDT will so I'm sure it could make some different sounds as it goes thru the system. Maybe the former owner had the dealer order Super UDT fluid for them when it was time to change it. My...

My brother had a King Kutter brand tiller that was all gear drive and I have a Bushhog that is chain drive. The KK gave no trouble and neither has the Bushhog. A all gear drive will mean you have another gear box to change oil in and maintain with is no big deal. After the initial chain tention...

You guys can trust the info that Sam427 is giving you reguarding the flat tappet cams and the problems with the EPA friendly oils of today. He and I have talked quite a bit on this subject and he knows his stuff.