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The speed control lever was optional on the B6200HST standard on the B7200HST. If it’s gear drive and is missing, then someone removed it.

X2 on the shuttle lever safety switch. When mine was going out, you'd have to push down on the shuttle when it's in neutral to get it to start. The way they designed the connector, you can bypass it temporarly, or in my case permanently.

The air filter connector and headlight connector are in the same wire loom. It starts in the main harness on the right hand side of the engine, then goes down into the side skirt, under the oil filter, and pops back up after the radiator to head to the air filter and headlight.

If you went the Lincoln locker route, you'd never be able to steer the thing more than a few degrees off center, and that get old real quick. Had to post this in the event the OP would consider this ;)

Tighten them up, then back them off a few threads so they can move. As others have said, they need to have some degree of play in them. Your nuts appear to by nylock nuts, which are the correct ones.

I like to keep things original too, but you should definately change your belt and fuel hoses. I bet if you went to pinch them you'll find they are hard as a rock.

It is nice to have two machines of the same model. You can usually swap parts if you're in a pinch. Same goes for the wheels.

I was in a similar situation and upgraded to a b7200. The 7100 is just too small for me in terms of comfort and power.

Can you post a pic for us? The B9163 is what you should have if it was a factory installed option. If anything other than that, your best bet is to remove the cylinder entirely and take to your local hydrallic shop so they can match parts for you.

There is an operator/parts manual for the B9162 / B9163 steering booster on ebay at the moment for $16.00. From what little I can read, it appears the 62 is for gear-drive machines and 63 for the HST's. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144940692647

Another vote for a PTO chipper. It's easier for me to gather branches and pile them on individual piles. Then I simply drive to the piles and mulch. Also, you're going to be able to throw more torque at the chipper than a gas engine, so it shouldn't bog down as much. Lastly, you don't have...

The diverter valve (PN# 70070-00385) has been discontinued for a while. If you can't find one through salvage, you can have one milled like the OP.

There are chinese ones on ebay for about $20 a pop. The OEM Kubota ones are about $60 a pop, part number 16415-65512. I personally would not put the cheap ones on any of my equipment, but that's just me.

Front tires should be 7.2-16, not 7-16.

Personally I'd pass given the hours and issues. That machine was made in the early 2000's. You may have put as much money into it as your going to pay for it.

I have a sand mound in the rear of my property and it cannot be mowed in 2wd, even when it's dry out. At the same time, I don't want R1's ripping the yard apart. So turf's in 4wd is the ticket.

I will certinaly keep this in mind, and placed it on my to-do list later this summer. Thanks Wolfman!

We were just discussing this the other night on another thread, but Kenda makes a true turf tire in 20.5X8.00-10. It's the model K513. Everything else out that in this rare size is a trailer tire, and they are not the same. A true turf tire will have lugs designed to bite into grass, but not...

I own a BH7500. It's nice, but I'm thinking it may be a little on the small side for a M series. A lot of them came with a 3-point mount kit, so it can be universally adapted to any machine. This is not the optimum way to mount a backhoe to a tractor. Using a subframe spreads the shock load...

That would indeed do the trick. I like that it doesn't move the attachment too far forward. Thanks for pics Wolfman!