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LOL...you are the one who gave me the link to the new bulbs...;) Here it is....http://www.amazon.com/generation-12-24v-Bright-Lumens-Reverse/dp/B0173805LU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Are you asking about mounting additional lights on the B7100, or just upgrading the current headlight system? If just upgrading, there are a bunch of different LED bulbs that plug right in, once you remove the old 1156 style bulbs. Here is what I used to upgrade my...

Just installed an LED set similar to these on my B7100 this week. It is a much better lighting pattern than the old 1156 bulbs that I took out.

I have a cat. 1 toplink on my work bench. I get about 20" center to center, with it fully retracted as well.

I have had lots of issues with tubeless front tires over the years as well. They always seem to leak over time. From now on, I am just going to put tubes in them from the start. Part of my issue is I seem to get debri worked into the bead over time, which over time, causes them to start leaking.

Hokie, how many of those B7100's do you need? I was thinking everyone was joking around about your little addition issues. Now I am beginning to wonder...lol. Then again, I guess one could have worse issues...;)

T, Since you have it that far apart, take a good look at that fan adjustment pulley to make sure the bearing is still good in it. It's a piece of cake to change, now that it is right in front of you. I believe that bearing is a #6203. The number is right on the side of the bearing.

All looks good to me...just put your balls back and all should be good...lol. Glad to hear it came apart. It gives me hope when the dreaded day comes when I have to replace mine.

Nothing wrong with being a first year apprentice. They give you a little more leeway with dumb questions that way.... Works for me...lol

Somebody said something about free cookies?.....:D

I can see that happening pretty easily. I am going to make it a point to shut the tractor key switch off before I kill the engine, in order to avoid this. The glowing oil light should be a dead giveaway as well...but sometimes I'm not that smart.

Just makes me wonder how many hours are really on this tractor. Hourmeter shows 2072 hours. To me, the tractor does not seem to have that many hours on it. Maybe the original gauge failed and someone put in a used gauge with more hours on it. I like that story....I'm sticking with it....lol

There are a ton of Kubotas out there. They are a very popular tractor. If you don't believe me, take a look at how many Kubotas are for sale on Tractorhouse.com. It is just a numbers game. A certain percent are going to have issues at any given time. 10% of 1000 isn't that big of a number, but...

I've confirmed that it is shot. Removed it from the dash and hooked it to the battery charger leads. I also had power to the connector when it was in the tractor as well. Time stands still while using this tractor....lol

T, From the red circle in the pic, that looks like a welded nut, like you would remove the bolt from the other side. Maybe I am stating the obvious already? It's late and I still have my Easter clothes on, so I am not crawling under the old girl tonight.....;)

Got my electrical all figured out today. Horn and lights are now functional. Hour meter does not work. I will have to find a replacement. I am tempted to find a small hour meter to put under the hood and use the dash slot for an oil pressure gauge instead. I don't need the hour meter to be...

Tackled the electrical gremlins on my new to me tractor today. Removed all of the extra electrical garbage that was installed, got the lights working and even the horn....lol. It does not appear that the hour meter is working, if I turn the key switch on. Should it be working in the "on"...

Just incredible!!.... But in today's society, he would get injured, then find someone to sue and get millions for his "pain and suffering"

Finished my fluid and filter change yesterday. Final filter was the fuel filter. I had some difficulties in bleeding the air from the system afterwards, but all is good now. It runs really well. I also installed my repaired radiator yesterday, added fresh 50/50 coolant and installed the sending...

Bled them one last time, it started up, acted like it was going to die a few times, then it cleared up and purrs like a kitten again. Is there anything to make this easier next time, so I don't have to bleed the lines so much to get it started? Maybe a procedure in a specific order?