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Get yourself a come-a-long or cable puller. I've unstuck many a 8000 lb truck with them. All you need is something to hook to, and enough common sense, to not dig yourself in too deep...:D:D

A b-6000 might run it, like that, but I doubt that it would pull it, weight wise...:D:D

Actually if you are gonna use Roundup, to burn out a lawn, do it when the grass is a little tall. RU is absorbed by only the leaves, and if you have cut most off, you don't get a good even kill...:D:D

I'll admit to putting a blade on upside down, but I have always caught it, before trying to mow with it... I wonder if it will un-mow the lawn???:D:D

The first round baler was made by Allis Chalmers, back in the 40's, came from a farmer who invented it back in 1910. It was the basis for all those that followed. Although the bale was small, about 100 lbs, 36" by up to 25" in diameter, it could be left out in the field, for later removal, or...

Had the same problem, on my L-185, damned hole spiders would stuff the vent tube up, every year. Solved the problem entirely, by drilling the PTO shifter cover, tapping and installing one of these: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Prince-Mfg/1-8-NPT-BRONZE-BREATHER-9-4195-2.axd :D:D

https://youtu.be/cNsH6FUaElQ :D:D

NIW, actually Roundup is a pretty good way to help in the grading process. It kills the sod, making the roots easier to pull up and redistribute. Roundup only kills what it touches, and has no soil residue problems.:D:D

If you know all the specifics, You can find quite a lot, over at surpluscenter.com. No, I am not affiliated with them, as this is the second post, with that same answer. And No, I didn't stay at a holiday in last night...:D:D

Try looking at surpluscenter.com's site. You will need to know the particulars of your pump, GPM, PSI, shaft size and length, and case mounting info.:D:D

Depending on how rough it is, I'd start out with a cultivator, and finish with a box scraper, or a rear blade. That is fine for most that own a wheel tractor. Me, I'd use tooth bucket, then landscape box then harley rake, all powered by my ASV RC 30...:D:D

I have 1 of them, it never impresses with much more than it's ability to transmit the power of a hammer, to break off a grease fitting, JMHO...:D:D

Well, I got her mostly back together... About 4 hrs workin on it, off and on. Cleaned up the old grease, and the gear cover, hadda gallon can of turpentine, nearby, so I used that. Hadda thread a 1.5 x 75 mm bolt, cause fastnall didn't have an all threaded one. Also hadda bend the chain...

around here, I charge $65/hr. I also charge a minimum of $250. If there is also travel time, I charge $95/hr for that...:D:D

I've seen old allis chalmers tractors running good with 12000+ hours. it all depends on how much care you give them...:D:D

I'd take the fitting off, pick out and dried grease, fill as full as possible, with Kroil, and then try lubing with one of these on the grease gun: https://youtu.be/A5uccLIC99w Its the best $30 you can spend. Even if this particular fitting/part is fried, usually the locknlube gets the grease...

More numerous and smaller sparks and shrapnel flying up at you...:D:D

The single shank subsoilers are readily available, and are more suited to the hp of a smaller tractor. JMHO Here's one that Agrisupply sells: http://www.agrisupply.com/point-subsoiler-x-shank-ripper-tooth/p/73410/:D:D

I think the steepest I have operated my L2202 with steel wheel weights off of a 140 farmall, is somewhere around 30 degrees, IIRR. I think I posted it on here, in another thread, last summer. This was taken with the HF angle gauge, FWIW. A lot is going to depend on your comfort factor in...

Rust on the valve springs is can be common, if the engine has been run too short of a time, to get up to operating temperature. as others have said, pull the crank, so you know how bad the damage there is...:eek::eek: