Search results

I've had great luck punching a small hole in the metal part of the seal, next to the rubber with an ice pick... then screwing in a small slide hammer with a sheet metal screw in it. A few taps and it's out, with no damage to shaft or housing.

When you turn off the A/C or disconnect the compressor clutch, does the belt stop overrunning? If not, it's a pulley bearing issue. Highly unlikely it would free up and work normally after an hour. More likely; Any chance anyone overcharged the system trying to eliminate all sight glass...

I have 2 local shops that make hoses, both use cut off wheels. Since I've witnessed that, all my new hoses (even pre-packaged snow plow hoses) get brakleen then blown out before install. I always get crud out.

I'm not familiar with your machine for removal. But that looks like a nice clean break at a factory braze, unless its crushed further back. Any chance it can be cleaned up and rebrazed on the machine?

Seriously, just because you pumped it out of a diesel pump doesn't mean someone didn't contaminate it with gasoline down the line. Drain it and try it from a different source.

These are pretty much my feelings on this when I first read the thread. Laws vary from state to state. Was this completely accidental? Was there any intentional misuse or abuse? Were you supplied with an operators manual? Were you given thorough instructions on proper operation of the equipment...

If you're replacing a tubeless tire with a tubeless tire, it's best to leave it that way as long a the wheel is in good shape. Tubeless tires are easily repairable also.

Is it full to proper level? Any chance you're foaming the fluid and cavitating the pump?

Something is definitely going on there. Any machine shop that does engine work should be able to straighten it. Almost all do crankshaft straightening.

My Honda 4120 also specs 10w-30. Manual specifically states not to use hydrostatic fluid (as the older ones did). It is also a SOB to get reprimed. Manual states engine at medium speed, gently move between forward and reverse, taking care not to go past halfway with control. Just when it sounds...

Here’s how I did it. Last one is why I needed it easily removeable. Made the mistake of drilling the ROPS before I knew any better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On NIW's advice, Soltron is what I use. Got it from Fisheries Supply ($21.17/pt) My local NAPA wanted $37/pt. I bought 5 for free shipping... I now have a lifetime supply.

That whole filter manifold comes off pretty easily so you can see what you're doing. Replace the gaskets 070 and o-ring 020. While you're at it... on that line labeled 010, there's an o-ring on that line, under that plate with the 6 bolts that wears and tends to leak. The line swivels in the...

Absolutely. I should be able to get there this weekend.

I remember it being an odd size. I believe I used 1 1/2” angle iron. 2 pieces butted together over the top of the ROPS... trimmed one then tacked them together, removed them and welded them together. That’s what I built off of. It fit the rops so tightly it didn’t need any front supports. Two...

I wouldn't trade my GST for anything. P.S. It's NOT electronically controlled.

One more thing to keep in mind.... when this happens, it's oil from the dirty side of the element returning to the pan.

Check valve in the filter should prevent (or at least slow) this. Is it a Kubota filter? Does yours have a check valve? Not all filters do.

My land is so sloped I easily end up at 45* angles when mowing up and down the hills. I'm sure I'm bumping some of the oil at times... overfilling would only make it worse. P.S. Geo.... Eggbeater is a great description :D

You are corrrect. Most of today's dipsticks and owners manuals state "do not overfill". Overfilling causes aeration/foaming. Better slightly low than over. Of course full mark is best.