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The only suggestion I can offer is to make sure it's being tightened to the correct torque values and all friction washes are in good shape and in the proper order. I have the 48'' version of your deck which has an identical center spindle setup and my bolt must be 30 years old at this point...

Disengaging the clutch is mandatory when engaging the PTO's. There should be a warning label on the fender stating this. I realize it's tempting to do, especially at an idle, but you're slowly destroying parts in the PTO drivetrain when you do this. Eventually, you go to engage the PTO and...

The brackets that mount to the tractor are the same for both decks, however, that's about where the similarities end. Since you have a gear drive, you specifically need a RC48-62F deck. This is designed to run of the front PTO shaft (crank pulley) for its power. I'm hoping for your sake the...

If it's not something simple like a fuse, you will need a wiring diagram to properly diagnose. Don't throw anymore parts at it until you trace the starting circuit in its entirety. The BXX10 series was the first B series to get key stop ignition and all the operator presence nonsense. Like...

If your gearbox is like most kubota decks, you shouldn't have to take the gearbox apart to replace the seals. The input shaft seal can be done with the gearbox mounted to the deck, but the mainshaft requires the box to be removed from the deck. Something is wrong if you went through two seals...

On the B7200, you're limited to the fill port. I've seen a post somewhere around here where someone fabricated one, so it is possible.

Bob, the correct subframe for that machine is the B2733A. See attachment for interchangeable machines and driveline kits.

L2900 GST's are considered live PTO. If you had a gear drive L2900, "independent" PTO was optional. It used a separate clutch to engage and disengage the PTO. The independent PTO was not an option on the GST-equipped machines because you can achieve an independent function of the PTO in a...

Since you said the L word (loader), HST is the only way to go. You can devote 100% of your arms to steering and loader joystick control, which you cannot do with a gear drive or GST. This allows you more precise and efficient loader operation.

I'm not familiar with that specific machine, but it doesn't appear to be a factory kubota style connector. They tend to crimp connectors rather than nut and bolt them. It also appears to have a blue ring terminal on the back side of it, which they also do not use..... My bet is something...

The position control stops are set based upon the requirements of the attached implement. Sometimes they aren't even necessary, and other times critical. For example, with a mid mount mower, you need to adjust an upper limit so don't force the deck into the bottom of the tractor and break...

On my B7200, there was a small amount of binding with the 20-8x10 when doing the 4x4 push test, but I doubt it would be enough to damage the machine. I would try to find a set of the correct 20.5 because they are out there.....

Those stops highlighted in green give your machine "position control". If you run attachments like a mid-mount mower, you learn quickly how important they are to prevent damage. Trust us when we say their function is to limiting the range (or height) of the three point arms, not speed. Here...

There is a snap ring on the bottom side of the deck on the shaft that needs to be removed in order to free the shaft from the spindle housing. I have the same deck for my B7200. I will say I was chasing down a leak myself at the end of the mowing season and it turned out to be a worn out...

Agreed. I'm thinking they made this back in the day when the three-point backhoe was as common as the subframe backhoe.

This is one that fits my my L2900 & L3010. I don't know if it will fit newer machines. You might try reaching out to your local Kubota dealer and asking if they make a "toplink reinforcement kit" for your particular machine.

Kubota makes a reinforcement bracket for the L series to help prevent these types of failures.

It's not uncommon for tractors of that vintage to have connections that oxidize or rust. If it spent most of its life outside, its even worse. a small thin flat file can clean the terminals where the fuses seat.

Check the condition of the negative battery cable where it bolts to the frame. If that machine ever had a battery that leaked, acid always finds a way to that bolted connection and speeds up the rotting process. I'd try running a jumper cable from the negative terminal of the battery to the...

I believe the bolt pattern is identical for all the older b-series that are 6 bolt. The rears for both machines should be lug-centric, and the fronts hub-centric. So the front hub fitment will be critical.