Search results

Ok, so I live right smack dab in the middle of Ohio. The soils here are developed as a result of 3 to 4 different glacial advances (depending on which part of Knox county you live in) the latest of which was the Wisconsinan glaciation somewhere between 5 and 12,000 years ago (depending on your...

Does it have a low oil pressure shut-off solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl??? If so, remove it and inspect the plunger to see if it is stuck/sticking. It should move easily. If it is stuck clean it up until it moves very freely then re-assemble. If it is sticking closed or part way closed...

Valves are small, engine runs at relatively low RPM, cam lift is low and ramps are slow, doesn't need much seat pressure. Only way to know for sure is to check them against spec on a valve spring tester. But they're probably ok.

j'junke, you would probably be right except that there are few if any dealer shops out there that do anything that resembles automotive machine work, and pressing a pin or re-bushing a rod usually falls into that category. They almost always farm that type of stuff out. Now if the dealer was...

Well... Being one of probably very few folks here that has actually ever installed and re-sized rod bushings or had to do a "touch-up" hone on a piston pin bore here's what I think. If the bushings are off center, they were just being sloppy and often that carries over to the rest of the job...

You'd probably gain some clearance by moving the rear wheels "in" some. The disc gangs are angled toward the tractor on the front so they will be farther away from the axle centerline as you move toward the middle of the tractor. If your top link set-up has multiple holes on the tractor and...

Tx'geezer (btw, like the handle) Dealing just with the original question.... It'll probably be ok. Your pin is a floating design and is held in place by the wire circlips. The pin is not held in place by the aluminum piston. My WSM says the same thing, heat the piston and "tap" the pin in (but...

String trimmer??? If you really wanted you could build a belt driven string trimmer head like DR style walk behind trimmers. You could also just spray the broadleaf weeds/woody's with Garlon 3A and let the grass grow. Aw heck, someone already had the string trimmer idea! Always a day late and...

Your Kubota could be as early as a 1983 model. At that time they were using SAE 80 gear oil for the shared gear drive/hydraulic systems (from my M4500 operators manual circa 1985). Later rec is for a multipurpose hy-tran fluid like UDT. There will be more gear noise with the thinner oil no...

Same system was used on many old Massey Ferg. and some Ford tractors. Do a Google image search for "power assisted tractor steering", you can follow the image links to the home sites for info and pricing.

At this point it doesn't much matter what oil he was using. Anyway, the only time I've ever seen a rod bearing failure that was actually caused by the wrong oil was in a splash oiled engine where a heavier than spec oil was used and it didn't flow well enough when cool to lube the bearing...

Stud or bolt? If a bolt NAPA can probably match from the markings on the head. If a stud, you'd be better off getting from a dealer since there's no way to tell the grade and if it is or isn't a "stretch" type alloy. How did you break?

On ag tire/rim combinations you normally can un-bolt the wheel center from the rim and turn it around and/or move it from the inside to the outside of the bolt lug on the rim, or both, to change the width. On my M4500 you can get 7 different widths that way, ranging from just over 51 to 74 inches.

Mowed hay this morning! Pray for sun for a few days in central Ohio.

I suppose maybe the newer tractors are a little different but on my old M series - Install new filter, bleed filter with the vent screw/plug 'till no bubbles come out, then close, open bleed valve at injector pump, pull stop knob, crank with starter 10-15 seconds, close bleed valve, start motor...

That's one of the reasons I loved the two point "Fast-Hitch" on our old Farmall tractor. Had down pressure when needed, could float it if you wanted and had draft control. All in one neat package without that stupid top-link and all those annoying pins.

Three words! Orange Duct Tape! Can't go wrong, maybe a little orange plastic baler twine for reinforcement. :D

You're out of luck. There isn't any way to really do it. Even if you have a cyl on for the top link the lower arms will just pivot up and still let the implement float.

Either the lift pump or the injector pump, about the only two options. DO NOT RUN IT LIKE THAT! Too much fuel in the oil will wash the cylinders down and cause ring failure.

Well.... Using air is risky 'cause if you break the seal without somehow holding the piston at tdc the air escapes and the next thing you know the valve is sitting on top of the piston at the bottom of the stroke. At which point you're basically screwed. If you pull the manifolds you can...