Ok I was using a 6600 ford to pull a 3pt hitch 8ft disc. When I put on a Kubota M7040 the blades on the outside of the disc is within 1 inch of touching the rear tires. Is there any adjustment other than the top link to help with this. Does Kubota offer longer lift arms. It makes no sense why it would be perfectly ok on the 6600 but not the Kubota. Its really only a major issue when the disc is lifted all the way up.
disc almost hits tires
- Thread starter 300gr
- Start date
I doubt that you will find longer lift arms, and that isn't the best solution- you will decrease your lift capacity. It has to do with the spacing of the tires- is there any adjustment on the Kubota, to move the rims out?
One of the quick hitch adaptors such as pats or the copycats will give you a few inches of setback
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
There is your answer..........3.5" of additional room.
$225 is a whole lot cheaper than tires.
Kubota Newbie
Active member
Equipment
M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
You'd probably gain some clearance by moving the rear wheels "in" some. The disc gangs are angled toward the tractor on the front so they will be farther away from the axle centerline as you move toward the middle of the tractor. If your top link set-up has multiple holes on the tractor and disc, use the bottom hole on the tractor and the top hole on the disc, this will cause the rear of the implement to raise faster/further and swing the blades away automatically as you raise the implement since the gangs are also normally below the centerline of the lower three point pins (on the implement), shortening the top link will also tend to rotate the disc blades away from the tractor (it should be level as it enters the ground though, check it on a flat surface lifted up just an inch or so and adjust so the clearance to the ground is even all the way around).
An inch clearance seems kind of tight, but I remember something similar with a boxblade I was using.
But...an inch is as good as a mile.
If your lift arms and top-link are properly adjusted and tight (might need to use large washers on one or both ends of top link pins as anti-sway shims 'inside' lift bracket) and proper-size Category 2-3 lift pins are used (no bushings) and check-chains are made up tight and locked---everything should be rock solid.
When I was using that boxblade and it was made up tight it wouldn't move any at all. On that blade the entire assembly would miss the tires by just a tiny bit but it being tight I never worried about it. The bigger problem were the two outside tines stored upright when not ripping. Their curvature would take out a tire so had to pack them separately in the weight box. Which after losing a tine makes sense to store all of them in the box.
Certainly be cautious and satisfy yourself, but in my experience making the implement 'tight' makes all the difference.
Please post back so we may all learn based on your experiences.
But...an inch is as good as a mile.
If your lift arms and top-link are properly adjusted and tight (might need to use large washers on one or both ends of top link pins as anti-sway shims 'inside' lift bracket) and proper-size Category 2-3 lift pins are used (no bushings) and check-chains are made up tight and locked---everything should be rock solid.
When I was using that boxblade and it was made up tight it wouldn't move any at all. On that blade the entire assembly would miss the tires by just a tiny bit but it being tight I never worried about it. The bigger problem were the two outside tines stored upright when not ripping. Their curvature would take out a tire so had to pack them separately in the weight box. Which after losing a tine makes sense to store all of them in the box.
Certainly be cautious and satisfy yourself, but in my experience making the implement 'tight' makes all the difference.
Please post back so we may all learn based on your experiences.
Some lower 3PT lift arms are sized for a particular tire size. I had the same problem with my Allis Chalmers 175. Mounted plows were too close to the rear of the tractor and the plow frame actually hit the hydraulic couplings. A mounted Brillion seeder would hit the rear tires if the 3pt was all the way up. I solved the problem by installing Pat's Easy Change system...and got 3 or 4 inches added length. I bought mine directly from Pat's but I believe Northern Tool is a distributer. My AC 175 originally was shipped with 16.9x28 tires. By the time the series ended in 1980 Allis Chalmers had upgraded the tire size to 18.4x28... but they never lengthened the lower links.