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Like I previously stated the latest API rating is CK-4 for diesels unless you have an engine rated for the new FA oils. Most all oils you purchase today will be CK-4 which is backwards compatible with CJ-4 and previous ratings. Use a good quality diesel rated oil and be done with it. All Cj-4...

This is not always the case. There are applications where phasing is not conventional. You should always refer to oem documentation to determine correct phasing.

$95 for a radio that is less than $20 at Walmart and a pigtail you can buy off Ebay for $12 :unsure: Oh and I forgot the connector for the RTV I believe is reversed from the tractors

How have you checked the wiring? Did you check for continuity to ground with a multimeter? Have you checked the resistance of the coil on the valve? In order to blow a fuse you most likely have a short to ground or excessive current draw through the coil.

What does the manual recommend? The latest API rating is now CK4 which should be backward compatible with any current diesel engine. Even CJ4 is going to be backwards compatible to anything prior to that. I really doubt it will matter much given the short oil change interval they recommend But...

I've sat in too many depositions and court rooms to offer advice like this. Anyone publicly admitting to deleting a safety device or advising to delete one is a fool. If anything should ever happen, everything you post on a forum is admissible as evidence.

Quite honestly I don't think I would post on an internet forum how to delete a safety device

Maybe 20 min when I was in my prime:LOL:

As stated remove the dipper cylinder hose and the hose to the bucket cylinder off the bulkhead fitting. Then remove the bulkhead fitting and bring the leaking connection up where you can work with it. It may be easier to retract the dipper cylinder and rest the bucket on the ground. You will...

The one linked above should be correct. They are pretty much a standardized 4" lens. If you want it quicker a local auto parts store will probably have it. I know most all NAPA's carry or can get them.

That is an IDI engine. You will have to change quite a lot of parts and use your old cylinder head or get another one. The Second cylinder does look pretty rough but would need cleaning to verify how bad it is. I believe that engine is a parent bore block so I don't think there are liners...

Shows as UDT2 on my email. Pretty sure that is Super UDT2

I would recommend following the rod attached to the round knob to where and what it goes to. I have a feeling it may be an aftermarket add-on or modification. Is it possible someone has installed radiator shutters due to your climate? It is also possible it has something to do with the loader...

Alcohol is not a lubricant It will cause damage to your fuel injection components. You will not find a manufacturer of fuel injection systems or diesel engines that approves its use.

ISO Heet is an isopropyl alcohol based gas line antifreeze. Never use an alcohol based product in diesel fuel.

Right, 80W GL4 gear oil. My point was not to use UTF. I had to tell a customer a few months ago his $30k+ differential replacement was not covered because they used a wet brake/UTF oil instead of GL5. I am waiting to hear them cry when the other 2 fail.

Being that this is a wheel loader and the axles look to be spiral bevel gear sets with differentials a UTF is not required. I would expect that a GL4 or GL5 gear oil would be satisfactory. The reduction drive gear case does house a brake unit so it may or may not require a UTF type fluid it...

As whitetiger said there is less area on the rod side than on the barrel side so the effective force on cylinder extend vs retract will always be higher given the same pressure.

Did you perform the smoke test with the sump empty or with oil in the sump? If full of oil the smoke would not be able to reach the feed line to the pump. Also it is possible that the smoke may not show as during operation the suction line is under a negative pressure and some leaks do not show...

Can they be repaired ? Yes Is it cost effective to repair them? That depends on what needs to be replaced. If just seals then yes It could be done but if the shaft and bushings are worn causing he leak it makes less sense. You wont know how bad they are until you have it apart unless there is...