Search results

Before you bought, I'd looked flail mowers up on the internet, and most of the comments were "high maintenance". I posted it in your thread. Maybe this is what high maintenance is. My cheap Montgomery Ward 60" brush hog went about 30 years and many hundreds of acres before I had to do...

Congrats on the new tractor! It will be more satisfying than a new car is...

For the driveway, I'd be thinking of either a rear blade with a tail wheel, or a grader blade. The rear blade is great for all sorts of things, particularly snow. The land grader has two blades at an angle, allows the gravel to run up and over them, and is a much longer box arrangement...

It sounds like your clutch is not completely disengaging.

On my L3200 there is an indicator plate attached to the fender that guides the shifter along the correct paths. It would take some work and bad luck, but I can envision somehow having the shifter getting on the wrong side of the levers it is supposed to be moving, and leaving you jammed in...

It is your tractor, and that IS the tendency - run into the load at a good clip. If you happen to hit a rock or a big root, it is about the same as running into a brick wall at a good clip; something has to give, and it will probably be something on the tractor! One of my big reasons for...

I believe I had the same sort of arrangement on my L185DT. The lever shaft froze in the transmission housing - in the wall - and the handle broke off. I freed the shaft up with penetrating oil and a vise-grip on the collar, welded the handle back on, and never had another problem. But I...

Congrats on the tractor! A lot of folks here - like me - have the L3200/3800, and love them! It isn't 120hp, but its quite nimble!

Many tillers have a friction clutch, to protect the tractor PTO and tiller chain or gears. It will be an assembly, probably on the tiller end of the PTO drive shaft. It is round, usually 6-8" in diameter, and will have 6-8 springs on it. They probably need to be tightened a turn or so of the...

Rather than waiting for dark, I tap the button/pin in the QD male hose coupler with a 3/8" socket extension and a hammer. A bit of oil squirts out, and they then go together easily. I believe the manual says to tap the pin with a blunt object, as well.

I'm not sure I understand what you did. Does the unit use tractor hydraulics, or a front auxiliary pump. Did you disconnect it and reconnect it? If so, did you just disconnect the two tractor hydraulic lines, or the 4 loader lines. In order for the loader to work, you have to have fluid...

PTO lever needs to be OFF. Drive control pedals on the right need to be at center neutral position.

Thanks for the photos! It is a more "finished" look than the brush hog does. So now I'm watching CL for a good deal...

Heat won't hurt. I'd also consider a couple of big washers or a reinforcing plate to strengthen the area. What could have bent it in the first place? Seems heavy enough for an idler arm.

That is basically what I ended up doing to my Kubota K650 years ago to make it rigid to the 3ph; went from the lift arms back to the tractor side of the top link. Works fine for 35 years now. I also put flow control valves (fancy name for a needle valve) on the swing cylinder valve. Nice...

Check the book on the Rhino - I believe it is made for PTO 1st - 540 RPM. The tractor should not have any problem with it. As long as you are not bogging down, you aren't hurting the tractor.

I'm still using the whimpy plastic toolbox. I have a 12" crescent wrench, 12" channellocks, 15/16" wrench for the lift arm chains, and a small piece of 1/4" pipe for the tilt adjuster. I also have a 48" pry bar strapped across the ROPS. The worst thing my tractors ever did was run out of gas...

For what you want to do, I'd get a 6 or 7 foot brush hog, and put a couple of self powered 4' offset rotary satellites behind it - they run about $2K each at the Big R, and are heavily built. You are only planning on using this 3-4 times a year; they should all last a lifetime. And you save...

A thing to consider in all of this is the machine overall. The BX series weighs in at about 1250+ lbs, has 4WD, and will last 30+ years. The GR series diesel mower weighs about a thousand lbs, also has 4WD, and also will last and last. I seriously doubt that either would even know you have a...

I agree about the backhoe, but the key phrase is "good working backhoe". My backhoe is the Kubota K/L 650, standard issue for the L185/245 tractors. I wouldn't pay $500 for it as it was new. I've built on new stabilizers, and made the 3 point mount rigid. The valves have always bled off...