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Too heavily back loaded single axle trailer, responding to bumps in the field...:D

If you want a quick tutorial on hydraulic terms and definitions, go to the tech page at Surpluscenter.com. I never keep all that info in my head, I guess I am a closed center system, lol. Anyway, they have lots of good info there, not necessarily about specific brands, but the basic formulas...

I have a bit of linkage lube advice. Try a can of fluid film spray lube. it comes with a straw to direct the spray in tight places. Where to spray, anywhere metal hits metal. Might have to pull up rubber boots, if so equipped. Oh, and it's made out of lanolin, which is sheep, squeezed hard...

you prolly could add a remote cyl, but the backstroke (not pressurized) would be really slow, and I'm not sure whether the 3 point has to drop first, before the cyl will drain back. You could try it, by hooking to a cylinder with a spring to put some back pressure on it, but it would be trial...

Run the subsoiler several times, both forward, and back, before installing pipe, if you encounter a rock or root, it's a heck of a lot easier to dig or cut through it, NOT having the pipe attached!:D

When working with injector lines, cleanliness is the important thing. A grain of sand or speck of dirt can cause a big leak. If it were mine, I'd take the leaky line off, and clean it up, first. if you have a buffing wheel, use that, or do it by hand with fine steel wool, or those scotch brite...

The york farm show? It's a great place to steal ideas, and has a pretty big footprint, but not as touristy as the Harrisburg farm show...:D

angry ram is the answer to your problems...http://youtu.be/nTGQZbY9834

In addition to the other sources mentioned, check out surpluscenter.com, too. Sometimes you can find a bargain there...:D

some guns are finicky on the ammo they use. Just keep trying different brands, till you find one that works...:D

Go to a welding store, and buy a carbon rod, of the right diameter, for the pin you want to use. You can weld up to the carbon rod, then after it's cool, tap the CR out, or break it out...:D

I would take the plastic knob off to prevent breakage, first. then shoot some kroil, or pb blaster into the shaft. Then put the spring pin back into the control shaft. Then take a 1/2 drive socket, and grind 2 notches into it, so it fits over the shaft, and onto the spring pin, and take an...

ORC is only of concern if you are using a mower or cultivator. Any of the 3 systems listed should be fine, as you will be operating the chipper as a stationary implement. Just don't slam the brake on at full throttle, or you will quickly wear it down. Let the chipper idle down, and then shut...

Weld 3 pieces of angle iron together, at 90 degrees, makes a self supporting tank trap type obstacle. And you can move them when you want to move the potholes they cause, or to do road maintenance. Paint them dayglo orange, or yellow...

They need to be installed on a 10-15 degree UP angle. In other words install in a straight section of lower hose, but only if the hose angles up into the motor. If it angles up into the radiator, all you do is heat the radiator. This can be alleviated to some extent, if you park the tractor...

He's lucky he remembered to remove the trailer from the tow vehicle...LOL!:D

Keep an old steel u shaped fence post nearby, or a digging and tamping bar. Handy for prying the implement from side to side as you hook up lower link pins. Aside from that a sailors vocabulary helps. I have found that the quick link adapters shift the implements 4-6" to the rear, making the...

Aah the perils of cussing 3 point equipment. Makes me yearn for the days of allis chalmers snap coupler. hope all heals well...

check the basics first, as you have done. I wouldn't rule out someone having dumped gas into the fuel, if you are not the only user...

I think, in this instance, I would do the same thing. Maybe a couple of nylon washers, and a nylon locknut, too