In 95% of cases this is true. However, I tend to agree it's better to to have the front engaged for better breaking for this particular use. His cargo is people.....
If your deck's like mine, then one side of the bearing is sealed while the other side is open. The sealed side of the bearings face away from the center of the spindle. This keeps the crud out of the bearing, while alowing grease to flow through the zerk fitting to the bearings.
If your adventures enough and can physically do it, hop on top the log pile with the chainsaw and cut from the top down. That's the quickest and easiest way I've found to cut through log piles.
That's simply not true. Not only are all the parts still availale, Messicks has them in stock as I type this. Granted the price did go up quite a bit from when I bought mine a few years ago. You're looking at $300+ for the bracket, mounts, and hardware.
Not sure which version of the RC60 you have, but the attached image is from the service manual and can give you a better idea of how the blades are secured.....
These Kubota MMM decks are fully rebuildable and worth rebuilding. They were constructed well and hold up over time. I did a full rebuild on my two years ago, and all the bearings, belts and wear parts were available through Messcisk. Given the age, I suggest you check for bearing play by...
A comparison of my Woods backhoe toplink (top) vs OEM kubota (bottom). The link itself is beefier, only threaded at one end, and longer. That's what they want you to use when you attach the hoe by way of 3-point. I'd still rather the toplink pull apart before it rips out the tractor mounts!
Agreed that HP is a useless number to size forks. As stated above, you rear lift capacity is the important number.
I have a set for my small machine and really like them. You might have to add front weight like I do, or you'll be steering with you rear tires, which is always fun.
Your loader subframe will help with the transmission reinforcement, but your toplink can always be ripped out if your too rough with it. If you don't already have one, you'll need a top link reinforcement kit (see attached pic). Also attached is a ladder style subframe that you would typically...
DT stands for "Double Traction" or "Dual Traction". It's Kubota's way of saying a 4WD model. So yes, you could have a XXXXXDT (manual, 4WD Machine), XXXXXDT-GST (Glide shift, 4WD Machine), or XXXXXDT-HST (Hydrostatic, 4WD Machine).