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You are correct up until you reach the max recommended rear ballast. But you are still within the design limitations. If you have the max recommended ballast, and the rear wheels still come off the ground, then you are exceeding the design limitations of the unit. Bottom line is the more weight...

Or orange. That 320# plus another 80#s between the weight box and the 3pt adapter makes a big difference in stability when doing loader work. I like how it is a compact weight down low, in the center of the tractor as opposed to a blade, box or mower hanging back there.

The bushings are available from Kubota, I just bought all 4 a few days ago.

The mower is a T1760 made from 1996 to 2001 with a 17 horse Kawasaki twin cyl gas engine and hydrostatic drive. Great units. Value of course depends on condition but they usually run from 1500 to 2k for a decent one. The other is a gear drive B7100 that would be a few years older. These are also...

Wow. Either have less coffee or more sugar there flip, you seem kind of bitter today.

Definitely one of the nicer 7200s I've seen in awhile. They are great units. Take care of it and it'll last you another 40 years.

You won't have to raise it up. Leave the tractor shut off, crawl under the right hand side and have somebody shift the lever in and out of 4wd, watch where the lever attaches to the shaft on the side of the transmission/ rear end housing, see if the shaft is turning. Check the lever and roll pin...

You can tell by the smell, gear oil stinks. If you have a dipstick on your transmission, sniff it and see if it's the same as the front axle. You'll get a mix of replies. Some guys use UDT or Super UDT, some guys use 80-90 gear oil. Either is fine according to Kubota but there is a train of...

That's fine but you should raise it again then grab the wheel at the top and bottom and give it a push/pull and see if there is any movement. This will tell you if you've got a bad bearing in the hub.

All though the ground looks fairly level in the pics, park it on something flat and then compare the two sides. If there's still a difference, use the loader to raise the front axle off the ground a bit and give each tire a wiggle at the top and bottom to see if there is any play in there or...

I wanted to add some more weight to the rear of my tractor for ballast while using the loader and for snow plowing. I added 180# wheel weights to each wheel which helped but I still needed more weight and didn't want it permanent as I use the tractor for raking hay as well. So, I had a 3 PT...

I just copy and paste the URL into my post.

Was it parked outside and possibly got water into the engine through the exhaust? If so, maybe it hydrolocked when you started it, causing some bent push rods or valve stems.

Watch this video. It'll answer all your questions. A picture is worth a thousand words. EDIT: Gator beat me to it while I got sidetracked watching other Messicks videos lol.

Picked up another B7100 HSTD the other day, 1230 Hours on it. A twin to the one I already have, right down to the LA300B loader. Bought it from an older gentleman who bought it new, but hadn't used it in 5 years due to health issues. Stored inside since day one. Threw a battery in it, checked...

NIW, you know these units better than anyone else I know on here, so you're probably right. But still, the paint is definitely factory color, but that weld onto a cast arm looks homey to me, as well as the hose routing doesn't look like the usual quality of factory stuff to me. I could be wrong...

Nah, it won't work for that. For it to be a tilt cyl, it would have to go from the rockshaft upper arm to the lower arm. If you look, this one goes from the upper rockshaft arm to the frame of the tractor. It is either a lift assist, a means of providing down pressure, or the 3pt quit working...

Does it feel like the bolt is bottoming out in the spindle? If so, maybe there is some debris packed into the bottom of the hole, stick a pick or screwdriver in there and see. Or possibly the bolt is stretched a bit and bottoms out before there is enough tension on the cupped washers. A quick...

No kinks or sharp bends in the cable? Is it possibly routed wrong? If the answer to both is no, then yeah you probably have some kind of friction problem inside the cable, either dry, or possibly frayed inside. The rubber ends can be slid off the end of the cable jacket to allow you to add some...

What do you mean when you say you "cleaned" the filter? I'm not familiar with your unit but are you sure it's a serviceable fuel filter? If it's not, it needs to be replaced.