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That type separator has no element. Nothing's missing. It's not designed to filter anything, only to separate any water (or anything heavier than fuel).

It looks like the spindle (that's what I would call it) has a square head on the top where the tie rod connecting arm fastens onto it? What you describe says that both those contact surfaces are worn beyond serviceability. You might order a new arm first, try that and see if/how much improvement...

That certainly sounds more like a plumbing problem than a pump issue. I think you need to revisit that.

Maybe you could explain a little about how that applies here?

You don't "TEE" anything except a sump return.

The parts list for that tractor shows the tension adjustment is directly under the compressor. In fact it mounts to a slotted bracket that's part of the compressor mounting bracket. It also shows the muffler to be in that area as well, so it's no surprise the space between them is probably not...

I don't know why you would be laughed at for mentioning the shut off solenoid, since your problem is closer the solenoid than it is to a fuel problem. Key switch or solenoid? possibly, but much more likely with the circuit(s) between them. Yours is certainly not the first tractor to develop...

I agree you will no doubt be doubly cautious of it's limitations, but you're still operating with only half a drive train, even if you don't put much extra stress on it.

Having never seen one of those machines, I know nothing about them. That said, I wonder if the ring and pinion was the initial failure in the first go around? If so, and it's torn up again, then I doubt the other drive axle will survive for very long as the one and only source of power. As I...

I'm guessing it would just a matter of proving/verifying that you actually have the tractor minus an engine. My thinking is the "destroyed" concept is more to prevent purchasing an older engine version and installing in a later model tractor in order to circumvent emissions systems. I could be...

Well if you're referring to the capillary tube in the above photo, that's part of the thermostat. It's purpose is to sense temperature of the evaporator coil, then stop and start the compressor clutch as needed to adjust as needed based on your dial setting in the cab. It has no effect on...

I can't help asking. When you have the system operating and "the pressures on both sides are too high", just what are those pressures, and what do you think they should be? What weight of refrigerant did you put in?

The cause of the failure? Probably a little of both. The gland is held in place by a wire ring fitted into a groove in the cylinder barrel. There are two glands, one on each end. I've seen them forced out like that by shearing off part of that wire ring. Yours is certainly not the first one to...

Then I have to wonder why you didn't adjust it there to begin with?

Age and service life on a dry clutch are not always connected. It looks like there is a cover plate under the clutch compartment, probably access for the PTO clutch adjustment you mentioned. With that cover removed you should be able to reach the throw out bearing and the various release levers...

The hose leading to the injection pump is connected to a banjo fitting. The banjo bolt fits through that fitting and threads into the pump body. The bolt is hollow with lateral holes. Fuel (or whatever medium is used) flows through the center of the bolt.

A temporary bypass of the "third new fuel pump" you're now using, with an electric pump would certainly be my next move. Along with a careful examination of the hose, barbs, banjo bolt(s) involved on the injection pump end. I'd let said electric pump with that "temporary" hose run into a clean...

Judging by what the parts list shows, the coil is part of the solenoid valve assembly, but other than access, I see no reason why you can't remove the snap ring, pop the unit out, put the new one in and be done.

$850? You must be talking to the wrong people. You should be able to have leaks stopped on that pump for less than $350 if that's all that's wrong.

No offense intended to anyone here, but there are reasons injection pump shops stay busy. Regardless of what one sees on U tube videos, then translates it into an "I can do that" sort of thing, injection pumps were not intended to be homeowner serviceable. Yes, there are certain aspects of pump...