L3130 HST Have had a ongoing power loss problum when traviling bogs down going up the slightest grade med,& gear/ have bin through the intire fuel system every thing off /tank out & cleaned /filter assembly dismantled & cleaned All hoses blown out/ Just installed new remaned injectors / new fuel pump & this is the THIRD one fuel flow through the system is fine (full fuel hoses) except after fuel pump ( even cranking it over ) have to by pass the pump to get Enough fuel to the injector pump to prime it & injectoe lines /This makes "3" fuel pumps original was leaking / replaced it with a after marker one no change in power problum / then went through the fuel system / fuel pump was not enough to prime injector pump / had ordered injectors changed them & new kubota fuel pump / had to by pass that one also to prime the system still no change in power loss problum (break test will roll away in neutral on the slightest hill )no catter or slipage in HST All fluides & filters 15 hrs ago old oil so good saved it for old fergusons / a cuple of small flakes on magnet (Got a after market electric fuel comming) Tractor has 1015 hrs got it at 980 hrs no history before (owner passed) ANY SUGGESTIONS OR INSITE THANKS
Loss of power
- Thread starter ferguson
- Start date
A temporary bypass of the "third new fuel pump" you're now using, with an electric pump would certainly be my next move. Along with a careful examination of the hose, barbs, banjo bolt(s) involved on the injection pump end. I'd let said electric pump with that "temporary" hose run into a clean container for thirty seconds or so to verify the supply before attaching it to the pump. Then start it up and see what changes.
The hose leading to the injection pump is connected to a banjo fitting. The banjo bolt fits through that fitting and threads into the pump body. The bolt is hollow with lateral holes. Fuel (or whatever medium is used) flows through the center of the bolt.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Curious..cause you've done a LOT of work and spent $$ on parts.....I looked at it 'online parts' pictures. There's a 'jet cock start' on the top of injector pump where fuel goes in. Looks like it could 'bleeder valve' to me. I'm wondering if you're supposed to open it a bit,crank starter and when fuel runs out, then close it ? It's probably not the problem.
I'm sure someone will KNOW what I'm looking and talking about.
I'm sure someone will KNOW what I'm looking and talking about.
Have had it apart once / going to take it out & check it agen / if the electric fuel pump dose not work i will order a rebuilt injector pump $$$$$ 500- 600 bucks
This is what a banjo fitting (bolt) looks like.
They can be connected to supply lines various ways, by threads, hoses/clamps, etc.
If you need to get a new injector pump I would recommend these folks. They are reliable, good equipment, service and prices. They can ship it to you very reasonably. https://oregonfuelinjection.com/
If you need to get a new injector pump I would recommend these folks. They are reliable, good equipment, service and prices. They can ship it to you very reasonably. https://oregonfuelinjection.com/
Hey ferguson,
Do a pressure leak test on the entire fuel system, if it has the smallest of cracks anywhere it is drawing air it won't have any power.
I had an 05 WS truck that the fuel filter housing was cracked, did never did leak fuel but it did suck air and ran like crap, plus MPG sucked big time.
It took like 8 trips to dealers across the country before my local shop finally found the crack by doing a leak down test.
My log truck has an air leak in the fuel system right now, and it is acting the same way, and in my case both trucks would/does die at an idle.
The leak could be anything, o-ring not seated, fuel line has a pin hole, loose fitting, cracked housing, it could be anywhere, but start with the whole system, apply like 20-30 PSI from the start of the fuel line thru the return line, if it leaks down, then divide the system in half, if the first half is ok then you start to narrow down where the leak is, just keep dividing each section in half until you find it.
FYI on a diesel engine even a leak in the return line can cause this issue also!
If a "pressure Test doesn't find it, then do a suction test, if you do have a leak one of those methods will find it.
These tests are cheap and easy to do, so try them before throwing more money at it, trust me you won't be sorry.
Cheers
Samantha
