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I'm not sure what nut you're talking about. All I remember was bolts holding everything together.

I've never had one apart to that degree, and have no clue what may or may not be available in the way of parts/materials to put one back together. I see plenty of replacement units (can't speak to quality) available for under $100 from multiple sources. Converting to dry element filter will...

NO. I removed only the one pump that had the problem. I did end up replacing both suction hose couplers, hose clamps, and the O rings on all four of the upper suction pipes. That got rid of the problem so I didn't go into the lower suction pipe leading into the filter base. That would have...

Not a good plan. Let it drip or go in and fix the leak. Don't put a solid plug in its place.

Parker prices these days do indeed take you for a ride. Parker is a high quality product, no question, but way out of line price wise for DIY crimp at home stuff. Seriously, you need to make a LOT of hoses to justify having the machinery and supplies at home to do it. Import hose and fittings...

I fully agree. It can't cost that much to get someone to look at it that knows air conditioning. What's been "checked" so far proves nothing. In order to check something, you need to first know something about it.

Would a 2014 model necessarily have all that regen crap?

Getting a "jump" on it by ordering parts ahead of time can be a mixed bag. Those I've been into always seem to have more problems than just a seal and an O ring. I've decided it's best to tear it down, then decide what to order. The last one I had was an L series. It had balls and bearing...

95 PSI static pressures indicate it's certainly not low on charge. Don't bother going in that direction yet. The problem is in the electrical circuits. The model and possibly the model year of the tractor would narrow down what circuits and components might be involved. Maybe it's old enough to...

By "gear case" I assume that means timing gear case? If so, don't you think with that cover off, things being moved around, gaskets cleaned etc, that something related to the governor could have missed a connection? It seems to me that most all of the governor related parts and pieces are...

I believe you're "overthinking" this. Put all the bolts in finger tight, give the plate a little shake then tighten the bolts.

I'm not sure what you meant by 'three lever control". Are you thinking of a three spool unit, something on the order of this? Or something else entirely. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/3-Spool-8-GPM-Prince-MB31BBB5C1-DA-Valve-9-7863.axd

If the lines were reversed then the lift would operate while the loader was being used and stop again when the spools return to neutral. I'm betting the sleeve is not there, and it's just a fitting. A power beyond sleeve is usually longer than what I see in the photo. Could be the "plumber" who...

In your photo the ports labeled on your new valve appear to be correct. The one labeled PB. Does that have a true power beyond sleeve, or is that just an adapter? From your description it sounds like all the oil from this valve is going to sump.

In the absence of gauges, you could try this. Go back to where you were, with engine running, system (supposedly) operating, and hopefully refrigerated air coming from the duct vents. After a few minutes operation, open the hood and feel the two lines on the compressor. The discharge line should...

The line looks a little rotted out near the fitting, but nothing that can't be fixed. Cut the damage off, a bit of custom work, you're back in business. Maybe do something different with the adapter it connects to, then find/make something to weld onto the pipe to match whatever you change it...

I agree. It's well worth that price. And it runs. Don't worry about the crybabies. it's your money, not theirs.

Scrap price? You might throw that into negotiations, but don't YOU believe it. If you can get for $1000 or so you can't go wrong. If it turns over it will most likely start and run. As for hydraulic issues, it's probably more work than expense on that front. If nothing's actually busted, the...

I think if it were me doing this I would look for the PTO valve. There should be a harness connector on (or darn close to) it you can unplug or disconnect. Next time it acts up I would let it run, get down and disconnect said plug. If the PTO doesn't stop, the problem is not electrical. No need...

If you decide to go that way, don't use the metal type, get a plastic one with only a screen in it. That way you can see what's going through along with the fuel. The paper elements will clog quicker...