L4150 Repair Restore

[Nicksacco]

<Quote> But lets hear everyone's thoughts on the choice of the tractor as well. <Endquote>

My first fun response is; "Any tractor is better than no tractor!"

I can tell you're really enjoying the "discovery" phase of your tractor and it's very cool.

I've finally completed the rebuild/restoration on my L35 after a year-and-a-half and my initial discovery phase was a love/hate relationship. It seemed like every time I started down one path, I found 3 other things that were messed up. But the satisfaction of learning something totally new, and bringing it back to life kept me going. This forum, the internet, local Kubota dealer, and others provided a world of knowledge and advice.

It sounds like you've got the right tractor for what you want to use it for and the satisfaction of making it GO can't be measured. Hmmm, you possibly have room in the shed for another one if so inclined!

 

[CiscoRanger]

<Quote> But lets hear everyone's thoughts on the choice of the tractor as well. <Endquote>

My first fun response is; "Any tractor is better than no tractor!"

I can tell you're really enjoying the "discovery" phase of your tractor and it's very cool.

I've finally completed the rebuild/restoration on my L35 after a year-and-a-half and my initial discovery phase was a love/hate relationship. It seemed like every time I started down one path, I found 3 other things that were messed up. But the satisfaction of learning something totally new, and bringing it back to life kept me going. This forum, the internet, local Kubota dealer, and others provided a world of knowledge and advice.

It sounds like you've got the right tractor for what you want to use it for and the satisfaction of making it GO can't be measured. Hmmm, you possibly have room in the shed for another one if so inclined!

This is so well said. I really have enjoyed the last week of discovery. And I agree, the satisfaction is completely in learning something new, fixing something that is broken, and I'll add one: working through issues with capable, experienced, like-minded folks like you guys.

Did you post some pics of the L35? Would love to see it. Also, did you paint it as part of the resto? I'm mulling this over right now. The L4150 is very faded on the orange, and has a lot of the Blue that is missing or needs to be re-done. I've read a few threads on it, and seems like it is similar to painting a car, vs just prep and a rattle can.

 

[CiscoRanger]

@TheOldHokie Dan, are you familiar with 3rd function options on the BF900? I have a few Skid attachments that would work well on the tractor. Like a grapple bucket.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

@TheOldHokie Dan, are you familiar with 3rd function options on the BF900? I have a few Skid attachments that would work well on the tractor. Like a grapple bucket.

If I may throw this out there (and beat my drum a little ), here's a possibility. Looking at the parts diagrams, the BF900 controls look virtually identical to the BT900TL720 on my L35. I recently completed (well, almost) a third function install, link below:

L35 Third Function

RaleighL35 posted this thread about adding a section to the Husco backhoe valve to control a hydraulic thumb: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/2003-tlb-l35-bt900-backhoe-hydraulic-thumb.56902/ It started me thinking about doing the same thing to the loader valve to add a third...

www.orangetractortalks.com

It makes a clean install, allows variable control and is non-electric, which is in keeping with the L35 vintage. But it has the disadvantage of adding a stick vs the push- button convenience. You'd first need to confirm that your valve is the Husco 5000 series.

I'm sure TheOldHokie will respond to your request shortly with the more conventional approach. Does your valve have 6 or 7 hoses connected to it?

edit: my loader is TL720, the backhoe is BT900

 

[CiscoRanger]

If I may throw this out there (and beat my drum a little ), here's a possibility. Looking at the parts diagrams, the BF900 controls look virtually identical to the BT900 on my L35. I recently completed (well, almost) a third function install, link below:

L35 Third Function

RaleighL35 posted this thread about adding a section to the Husco backhoe valve to control a hydraulic thumb: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/2003-tlb-l35-bt900-backhoe-hydraulic-thumb.56902/ It started me thinking about doing the same thing to the loader valve to add a third...

www.orangetractortalks.com

It makes a clean install, allows variable control and is non-electric, which is in keeping with the L35 vintage. But it has the disadvantage of adding a stick vs the push- button convenience. You'd first need to confirm that your valve is the Husco 5000 series.

I'm sure TheOldHokie will respond to your request shortly with the more conventional approach. Does your valve have 6 or 7 hoses connected to it?

Thats awesome Po. I scanned it while in a meeting and will go through it in more detail. Also, I'm not sure which valve or how many hoses. I havent spent any time with the loader except to remove it.

I'll go look and take some pics in a few.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

BTW CR, you may want to check that your valve has a relief valve cartridge in place of the #460 plug shown in the parts diagram. Otherwise, you'll deadhead the pump when a cylinder reaches its limit, like it did before you looped the hose. If not, I may have one that'll work.

 

[CiscoRanger]

As a side note, I'm wondering if I should rename the thread to something like L4150 Repair / Restore?

 

[CiscoRanger]

BTW CR, you may want to check that your valve has a relief valve cartridge in place of the #460 plug shown in the parts diagram. Otherwise, you'll deadhead the pump when a cylinder reaches its limit, like it did before you looped the hose. If not, I may have one that'll work.

View attachment 88643

Here are pics of the loader valve:

7 Total Hoses:

Looks like no relief valve, just the 460 plug:

And here's the plate:

 

[CiscoRanger]

Update: Some good news and bad...

The Bad: Found some more missing parts...the entire overflow tank for the radiator is missing. Which includes the coolant low sensor that illuminates a warning light on the dash. Spent a little more time with the coolant today, too. Not sure the thermostat is opening. Up to this point I havent run it for more than a minute or two max at idle. And I'm not really brave enough to engine test the thermostat, since I dont have a temp gauge connected. I pulled it and it looks newish, and the gasket didnt stick. So, I'll boil it and see if it functions.

The good: Fuel cutoff solenoid works great when I threw 12v to it. For some reason it isnt getting anything from the key tho. Theres a specific fuse for that tho, but it looked good. Also, pretty sure that circuit goes through a timer, so that could be bad also.

Along those lines, I tried to key-test the gloplug indicator today, but the nichrome wire didnt do much of anything. Is it supposed to glow? I've been putting off the electrical, until I fully mechanically test this thing, because it will all have to be re-done. So will save this for a different day, I suppose.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Update: Some good news and bad...

The Bad: Found some more missing parts...the entire overflow tank for the radiator is missing. Which includes the coolant low sensor that illuminates a warning light on the dash. Spent a little more time with the coolant today, too. Not sure the thermostat is opening. Up to this point I havent run it for more than a minute or two max at idle. And I'm not really brave enough to engine test the thermostat, since I dont have a temp gauge connected. I pulled it and it looks newish, and the gasket didnt stick. So, I'll boil it and see if it functions.

The good: Fuel cutoff solenoid works great when I threw 12v to it. For some reason it isnt getting anything from the key tho. Theres a specific fuse for that tho, but it looked good. Also, pretty sure that circuit goes through a timer, so that could be bad also.

Along those lines, I tried to key-test the gloplug indicator today, but the nichrome wire didnt do much of anything. Is it supposed to glow? I've been putting off the electrical, until I fully mechanically test this thing, because it will all have to be re-done. So will save this for a different day, I suppose.

There is a timer on the stop solenoid. There is a fuse on the timer output. That circuit shouldn't be too hard to troubleshoot.

The glow plugs are powered two ways. In the preheat position, the circuit is switch - indicator - glow plugs. In the start position, the circuit is switch - plugs, the indicator resistance is bypassed to make up for the lower battery voltage when the starter is in use. According to the manual your engine doesn't require preheat down to 23°F. Your engine is direct injected, most/all of the newer ones are indirect injected which means they have pre- combustion chambers. Yours has an idle compensator which raises the idle speed until the coolant temperature reaches a certain point, sort of like our old carbureted cars, I guess.

 

[CiscoRanger]

There is a timer on the stop solenoid. There is a fuse on the timer output. That circuit shouldn't be too hard to troubleshoot.

The glow plugs are powered two ways. In the preheat position, the circuit is switch - indicator - glow plugs. In the start position, the circuit is switch - plugs, the indicator resistance is bypassed to make up for the lower battery voltage when the starter is in use. According to the manual your engine doesn't require preheat down to 23°F. Your engine is direct injected, most/all of the newer ones are indirect injected which means they have pre- combustion chambers. Yours has an idle compensator which raises the idle speed until the coolant temperature reaches a certain point, sort of like our old carbureted cars, I guess.

Thats helpful. So in preheat, does the nichrome wire glow hot? Since its called an indicator I expected it to do something in pre-heat.

Also I saw that"no pre-heat til 23F" and below. Gonna have to see it to believe it. Every Diesel Ive tried to start below freezing has been unhappy without a GP warmup, or the intake air heater. But they are soft, fair-weather Texas diesels that dont have de-icing salts thrown on them, so there's that.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Here are pics of the loader valve:
View attachment 88650

7 Total Hoses:

View attachment 88651

Looks like no relief valve, just the 460 plug:

View attachment 88652

And here's the plate:

View attachment 88653

First, I hate to burst your bubble, but your skid steer attachments may be too heavy for your tractor loader to work with. An adapter is probably available for your loader to replace the pin-on, but you'd need to modify your bucket or find a SSQA one (good luck, I've been looking for a 60" or 66").

Now, I may have been premature in my assessment of the relief valve need. There are discrepancies among the parts diagrams, the hydraulic diagram in the WSM and the description in the WSM. We may need you to trace the line from the pump and take pictures, especially of the hydraulic block where the loader takes off. Some blocks have a diverter valve and relief valve and some are simple blocks. BTW (again), does your tractor have any rear auxiliary connections?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

As a side note, I'm wondering if I should rename the thread to something like L4150 Repair / Restore?

might be a good idea, to have the model in the title

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Thats helpful. So in preheat, does the nichrome wire glow hot? Since its called an indicator I expected it to do something in pre-heat.

Also I saw that"no pre-heat til 23F" and below. Gonna have to see it to believe it. Every Diesel Ive tried to start below freezing has been unhappy without a GP warmup, or the intake air heater. But they are soft, fair-weather Texas diesels that dont have de-icing salts thrown on them, so there's that.

Yes, in the preheat position the glow plugs should pull enough current to make it glow. I understand there's one indicator part for all Kubotas, but I'm not sure. If so, your 5 plugs ought to make it really light up!

Back to the overflow tank. It would be nice to have everything functional, but relying on the low tank level indicator can be false security. If you develop a head gasket leak, it's possible to lose the coolant in the engine without drawing down that reservoir.

Also, you have a battery electrolyte low level indicator. I don't think batteries with that capability have been produced in a long time, probably since low-/no-maintenance batteries were introduced.

I think your tractor was a predecessor of what's now called the Grand L line, lots of extra features.

 

[CiscoRanger]

First, I hate to burst your bubble, but your skid steer attachments may be too heavy for your tractor loader to work with. An adapter is probably available for your loader to replace the pin-on, but you'd need to modify your bucket or find a SSQA one (good luck, I've been looking for a 60" or 66").

I didnt figure to go crazy with it. Just forks, and the bucket and the grapple bucket. I can either modify the current bucket or use the SS bucket I have, presumably.

Now, I may have been premature in my assessment of the relief valve need. There are discrepancies among the parts diagrams, the hydraulic diagram in the WSM and the description in the WSM. We may need you to trace the line from the pump and take pictures, especially of the hydraulic block where the loader takes off. Some blocks have a diverter valve and relief valve and some are simple blocks. BTW (again), does your tractor have any rear auxiliary connections?

Dual Rear Aux Connections. Will snap a pic of that, and the primary block to the loader.

 

[CiscoRanger]

might be a good idea, to have the model in the title

@PoTreeBoy Done!

 

[CiscoRanger]

Yes, in the preheat position the glow plugs should pull enough current to make it glow. I understand there's one indicator part for all Kubotas, but I'm not sure. If so, your 5 plugs ought to make it really light up!

Back to the overflow tank. It would be nice to have everything functional, but relying on the low tank level indicator can be false security. If you develop a head gasket leak, it's possible to lose the coolant in the engine without drawing down that reservoir.

Also, you have a battery electrolyte low level indicator. I don't think batteries with that capability have been produced in a long time, probably since low-/no-maintenance batteries were introduced.

I think your tractor was a predecessor of what's now called the Grand L line, lots of extra features.

I agree with all of this. Theres a coolant temp gauge on the dash, its just not hooked up, The needle is broken off at the pivot, and who knows if it is working, but it has one! I need to find the sensor as well.

Oh and the thermostat opened up just fine. Off to take pics.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Ok. From the hyd pump, fluid exits the bottom and heads rearward to the Priority Flow block behind the right tower:

PF Block: the line coming up and out is shuttle shift valve that has priority. Excess flow continues rearward.

here it enters the loader block and is routed accordingly (in out May be reversed…best guess)

where it enters the 3PH

Dual aux on other side of 3PH

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok. From the hyd pump, fluid exits the bottom and heads rearward to the Priority Flow block behind the right tower:

View attachment 88658

PF Block: the line coming up and out is shuttle shift valve that has priority. Excess flow continues rearward.

View attachment 88660

here it enters the loader block and is routed accordingly (in out May be reversed…best guess)

View attachment 88661

View attachment 88662

where it enters the 3PH

View attachment 88663

Dual aux on other side of 3PH

View attachment 88664

I did a quick scan of the Kubota parts pages. There is no sign of a relief in that sectional valve or the outlet block. The only flow going out the tank return on the loader valve is exhaust oil from the cylinders. It seems very unlikely Kubota would have used that loader valve if the supply was not protected by a relief somewhere but I don't see one. However you have a shuttle shift model and the shuttle shift flow divider is ahead of the outlet block. That dumps a portion of the pump output flow which may be enough to limit pressure in the excess circuit.

Third function is just another valve inserted in the power beyond circuit coming off the loader valve. Any of the generic kits should work fine.

Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Ok. From the hyd pump, fluid exits the bottom and heads rearward to the Priority Flow block behind the right tower:

View attachment 88658

PF Block: the line coming up and out is shuttle shift valve that has priority. Excess flow continues rearward.

View attachment 88660

here it enters the loader block and is routed accordingly (in out May be reversed…best guess)

View attachment 88661

View attachment 88662

where it enters the 3PH

View attachment 88663

Dual aux on other side of 3PH

View attachment 88664

Thanks. Yeah, you have the purple and blue flows reversed. Would you happen to have the loader installation manual?