L4150 Repair Restore

[TheOldHokie]

Ok Po and Dan, I got a pic of the junction block. There’s hydraulic fluid under the tractor that I didn’t want to roll around in so this was the best pic I could take.

View attachment 88741

it looks like the Relief valve block does bolt to the case, and the hex head is the top of the RV. This is view from the rear. The line coming at you is going to the 3ph

Just like shown in the owners manual and very Kubota like. Zippo on that in the KPAD parts pages as near as I can tell.....

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

OK, so your pump was protected. You might want to check its set pressure before you reinstall the loader.

I've been meaning to ask, how's that 5 cylinder sound?

It sounds gritty and diesely and awesome! Much better than the other 3-cyls I have in the gen and skid steer. I'll see if I can get a video.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Update: Some parts got here today, specifically the roll pin for the main gear shift. Got that installed and cleaned up the bowl and surfaces and put the cover back on.

then I put the seat on long enough for a test drive. It seems to run very well. The shuttle shift with the hydraulic clutch delay will take some getting used to. I cycled through all 8 gears just fine. There’s some clunks that I’ll probably check could have been the 3ph banging on the foam filled tires. All in all it felt sound and solid.

 

[CiscoRanger]

OK, so your pump was protected. You might want to check its set pressure before you reinstall the loader.

I've been meaning to ask, how's that 5 cylinder sound?

I think I have youtube figured out. Tell me what you think?

L4150DT Testing Shuttle Shift

Repairing and restoring a neglected Kubota L4150DT

youtube.com

L4150DT Driving

Repairing and restoring a neglected Kubota L4150DT

youtube.com

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I think I have youtube figured out. Tell me what you think?

L4150DT Testing Shuttle Shift

Repairing and restoring a neglected Kubota L4150DT

youtube.com

L4150DT Driving

Repairing and restoring a neglected Kubota L4150DT

youtube.com

Nice!

 

[TheOldHokie]

I think I have youtube figured out. Tell me what you think?

L4150DT Testing Shuttle Shift

Repairing and restoring a neglected Kubota L4150DT

youtube.com

L4150DT Driving

Repairing and restoring a neglected Kubota L4150DT

youtube.com

You have a lot to learn about being a YouTube star:

1. You must have a snazzy sign on with a logo and sound effect
2. You must open by plugging your channel and sponsors
3. You must plaster your visage all over the place
4. You must subject the audience to a personal introduction and boring discussion of your personal life
5. Your dog, cat, cow, frog, goldfish, or other animal must make an appearance
6. You must introduce the topic with a technical explanation of the parts and/or tools you are using that contains at least one factual error.
7. When you finally get to the demonstration you must subject the audience to a critique of the instructions,
8. You must film every tiny move made. nut turned, bolt dropped, and bumble and fumble your way through the process.
9. Your children or significant other must make an appearance
10. You must close with another plug for your channel
11. You must have a snazzy signoff logo and sound effect

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

You have a lot to learn about being a YouTube star:

1. You must have a snazzy sign on with a logo and sound effect
2. You must open by plugging your channel and sponsors
3. You must plaster your visage all over the place
4. You must subject the audience to a personal introduction and boring discussion of your personal life
5. Your dog, cat, cow, frog, goldfish, or other animal must make an appearance
6. You must introduce the topic with a technical explanation of the parts and/or tools you are using that contains at least one factual error.
7. When you finally get to the demonstration you must subject the audience to a critique of the instructions,
8. You must film every tiny move made. nut turned, bolt dropped, and bumble and fumble your way through the process.
9. Your children or significant other must make an appearance
10. You must close with another plug for your channel
11. You must have a snazzy signoff logo and sound effect

Dan

Too funny Dan. I'll remember you when im youtube rich and famous!

 

[Russell King]

FYI I would not invest time in paint it looks too good.

You can probably get every decal you want from the dealer at a fairly reasonable to steep price. Some decals are just pictures (Horn is a simple trumpet symbol). And some of them are almost funny to read the “English “ and figure out what they were trying to say.

I suggest that you at least buy the ones on the dash and the ones near levers or pedals to apply.

For OCD reasons I bought some that’s where under the hood, described as “label” in the parts list and they turned out to be just a sticker with numbers that were stuck onto odd things like the air filter enclosure. I don’t understand why they were available in the first place, had a part number that was tracked in the illustrated parts list or what purpose they served in the first place. But I got them!

And since you seem to have the hot lucky streak going would you play the lottery for me - just one dollar and I’ll pay you back if it’s a winner!

Congratulations on the excellent low cost tractor!

Don’t forget to get some antifreeze in it soon, I assume you may see freezing cold a day or two, especially after the last two winters!

 

[CiscoRanger]

FYI I would not invest time in paint it looks too good.

You can probably get every decal you want from the dealer at a fairly reasonable to steep price. Some decals are just pictures (Horn is a simple trumpet symbol). And some of them are almost funny to read the “English “ and figure out what they were trying to say.

I suggest that you at least buy the ones on the dash and the ones near levers or pedals to apply.

For OCD reasons I bought some that’s where under the hood, described as “label” in the parts list and they turned out to be just a sticker with numbers that were stuck onto odd things like the air filter enclosure. I don’t understand why they were available in the first place, had a part number that was tracked in the illustrated parts list or what purpose they served in the first place. But I got them!

And since you seem to have the hot lucky streak going would you play the lottery for me - just one dollar and I’ll pay you back if it’s a winner!

Congratulations on the excellent low cost tractor!

Don’t forget to get some antifreeze in it soon, I assume you may see freezing cold a day or two, especially after the last two winters!

Thats two votes for no paint! Maybe just the blue, then for some rust inhibitor on the cases and components.

Good call on the decals. Planning on doing that soon. Like you said, at least all the levers and dash. I might skip the random numbers on the air filter housing, like you said, but my OCD is pretty strong too!

The lottery only works if you use the other person's tractor or the other person's money. So you'll have to send that dollar to me.

I appreciate the congratulations. I'm hesitant to let the neighbor know its running. I might leave all the panels off for a year or two, and just use it while he's gone. haha.

I agree on the antifreeze, altho it looked nice and green when I pulled the thermostat. So its got some in there. Probably run that for a little while til I flush it.

Speaking of flushing it, since it is running and driving now I was about to start a front to back list for all fluids, filters, fushing, and random decals. As I was driving it I thought about the differentials as well. Assuming the hour meter is working, we are at 1800 hours, which is an easy place to begin at. Lots more to do!

Thanks Russell

 

[Nicksacco]

Awesome, just awesome!

 

[rbargeron]

........ I had considered adding a simple pull knob through the console to change it if I wanted to for winter. But I'm pretty far ahead of myself with thoughts like that.

I made a push-pull reach rod from the tip of an old fishing pole - the tip guide fits over the pin. When reassembled, the hour meter cable restricts lifting the dash, but a reach rod gets to it.
Running a rod thru the console would be pretty "up-town" The first time I test-drove my L4150 it must have been set for cold weather - shuttling F-R caused a bit of a face-plant.

As you live with this machine, you'll notice more ways it makes you happy. The L3 chassis is among K's best work. Years ago, when their service organization was based in Ohio, one of their people told me the L3 was their most trouble-free product.

And nice job on the shifter box.... Take care, Dick B.

 

[CiscoRanger]

I made a push-pull reach rod from the tip of an old fishing pole - the tip guide fits over the pin. When reassembled, the hour meter cable restricts lifting the dash, but a reach rod gets to it.
Running a rod thru the console would be pretty "up-town" The first time I test-drove my L4150 it must have been set for cold weather - shuttling F-R caused a bit of a face-plant.

As you live with this machine, you'll notice more ways it makes you happy. The L3 chassis is among K's best work. Years ago, when their service organization was based in Ohio, one of their people told me the L3 was their most trouble-free product.

And nice job on the shifter box.... Take care, Dick B.

Thanks, Dick. You have a way of writing that just projects encouragement.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Busy day at work, but I started in on the electrical this afternoon:

Most of the connectors are super brittle and are falling apart. These are normally under the dash, so either heat, or they sat out uncovered for a long time. Maybe both:

I started my testing procedures with the key switch, ohm checking the functions and as I was doing that I noticed that it was wired wrong. The accessory wire was on the Start terminal, and the Start wire was on the AC terminal, yet it was starting only when the key turned to Start. Ohm Test had functioned perfectly, so what the heck?

I checked the diagrams mutilple times, trying to figure out if someone had tried to bypass the clutch switch (which I havent had to use yet, by the way. Every thing looked to be wired correctly, but if I switched the wires on the key, as soon as you turned the key on, the starter would turn over.

I finally ended up de-looming 2 and 3, and 4 down to the clutch safety switch. The starter wire was indeed wired up correctly. I did find this when I removed the center console. Thats the primary ACC line from the key to the fuse box.

I re-checked the conductivity on the key one more time, Put the wires on the key correctly, and then I started applying 12v to starter solenoid wire, working my way back from the starter, through the connectors, through the safety switch, all the way to the key. Finally got back to the key, hooked it up, and it worked properly.

I didnt change anything, and I have no explination for why it started working correctly, or even how it was working in the first place with the wires switched. My best guess is in one of the two connectors, that are falling apart, they were touching. Even that doesnt explain it.

Weirdest electrical thing I've ever seen. Ghosts in the machine. I left her quite a mess for the evening.

I need to get new connectors. Honestly I dont care if they are the original style or not. Just something durable. Will need from 1-pole to 10-pole. I will also need to get some of those bullet style disconnects for the lights. Any recommendations on connectors and where to get them? Thanks!

Happy Weekend, everyone.

 

[Nicksacco]

If you look at ebay or similar and enter "Deutsch connector" you will find a variety pin numbers of well-insulated and waterproof connectors. I used these on my L35 when I remade the electrical harnesses and recommend you get the "pigtail" variety using 14 ga wire which will usually be larger than the OEM. However if the wire is handling glow plugs or high draw circuits, you will see they are likely 12 ga wires and probably have their own single connector.

The Molex type connectors you show are sort of typical on many machines, but they aren't waterproof. However some dielectric grease helps unless you are constantly pressure washing your wires

Some of these connector kits have you make up the pin/wires and then insert into the plastic connector. Yes, I've done that too on previous restorations, but a lot of work.

I'm not fond of bullet connectors, but I did succumb to using them on lights. Likely you can find these in an automotive parts store.

The metal in the Chinesium connectors is crappy and very thin so you kinda have to be careful.

You can also look at Mouser Electronics and Allied but I think they're pretty expensive over there. I've had no luck locally and had to order everything.

And don't forget, if you have OEM 10 contact connector as example, you can always use 2 5-contact connectors.

I see you have a multimeter, therefore I assume you also have wire strippers and crimpers? Handy to have. Beats a Bowie knife and scissors! I'm anal about wiring so I tend to solder everything anyway.

Before I forget, if you peel back insulation and find green or black corrosion on the wires, better to cut it back until you find good copper. If bad enough, the corrosion will eat the wire and well....

Also you can search on "automotive electrical pigtail connectors"

BEFORE

AFTER

 

[woodman55]

If you look at ebay or similar and enter "Deutsch connector" you will find a variety pin numbers of well-insulated and waterproof connectors. I used these on my L35 when I remade the electrical harnesses and recommend you get the "pigtail" variety using 14 ga wire which will usually be larger than the OEM. However if the wire is handling glow plugs or high draw circuits, you will see they are likely 12 ga wires and probably have their own single connector.

The Molex type connectors you show are sort of typical on many machines, but they aren't waterproof. However some dielectric grease helps unless you are constantly pressure washing your wires

Some of these connector kits have you make up the pin/wires and then insert into the plastic connector. Yes, I've done that too on previous restorations, but a lot of work.

I'm not fond of bullet connectors, but I did succumb to using them on lights. Likely you can find these in an automotive parts store.

The metal in the Chinesium connectors is crappy and very thin so you kinda have to be careful.

You can also look at Mouser Electronics and Allied but I think they're pretty expensive over there. I've had no luck locally and had to order everything.

And don't forget, if you have OEM 10 contact connector as example, you can always use 2 5-contact connectors.

I see you have a multimeter, therefore I assume you also have wire strippers and crimpers? Handy to have. Beats a Bowie knife and scissors! I'm anal about wiring so I tend to solder everything anyway.

Before I forget, if you peel back insulation and find green or black corrosion on the wires, better to cut it back until you find good copper. If bad enough, the corrosion will eat the wire and well....


View attachment 88812

Also you can search on "automotive electrical pigtail connectors"


View attachment 88811


View attachment 88813




BEFORE

View attachment 88815

AFTER

View attachment 88816

I agree, Deutsch makes excellent connectors, I worked with them for years on cat equipment.

 

[CiscoRanger]

If you look at ebay or similar and enter "Deutsch connector" you will find a variety pin numbers of well-insulated and waterproof connectors. I used these on my L35 when I remade the electrical harnesses and recommend you get the "pigtail" variety using 14 ga wire which will usually be larger than the OEM. However if the wire is handling glow plugs or high draw circuits, you will see they are likely 12 ga wires and probably have their own single connector.

The Molex type connectors you show are sort of typical on many machines, but they aren't waterproof. However some dielectric grease helps unless you are constantly pressure washing your wires

Some of these connector kits have you make up the pin/wires and then insert into the plastic connector. Yes, I've done that too on previous restorations, but a lot of work.

I'm not fond of bullet connectors, but I did succumb to using them on lights. Likely you can find these in an automotive parts store.

The metal in the Chinesium connectors is crappy and very thin so you kinda have to be careful.

You can also look at Mouser Electronics and Allied but I think they're pretty expensive over there. I've had no luck locally and had to order everything.

And don't forget, if you have OEM 10 contact connector as example, you can always use 2 5-contact connectors.

I see you have a multimeter, therefore I assume you also have wire strippers and crimpers? Handy to have. Beats a Bowie knife and scissors! I'm anal about wiring so I tend to solder everything anyway.

Before I forget, if you peel back insulation and find green or black corrosion on the wires, better to cut it back until you find good copper. If bad enough, the corrosion will eat the wire and well....


View attachment 88812

Also you can search on "automotive electrical pigtail connectors"


View attachment 88811


View attachment 88813




BEFORE

View attachment 88815

AFTER

View attachment 88816

Lots of great info. Thanks Nick. That harness looks great!

 

[CiscoRanger]

It hit me last night what happened with the electrical. There’s 2 8-pin connectors under the dash And the guy plugged them up incorrectly.

This receptacle (to the starter) got plugged into the combination switch plug that just happened to have acc power on the same pin. so instead of tracing that down he swapped the start and acc wires on the key.

I confirmed that with one of the early on pics.

when I unplugged everything and traced it all out I got them plugged up correctly and it worked as it should. Be interesting to see what all might have gotten fried from doing that. Glad the mystery is solved tho.

 

[rbargeron]

One reason I hadn't been following this thread is I've been re-assembling a Honda Aspencade that was taken apart for electrical issues. It was apart a long time - some wiring was now missing. I noticed all the plug-ins were either shaped or color-coded to avoid mis-connections. Maybe Kubota pays attention to making identical plug-ins at least benign, if not harmless ?

 

[CiscoRanger]

One reason I hadn't been following this thread is I've been re-assembling a Honda Aspencade that was taken apart for electrical issues. It was apart a long time - some wiring was now missing. I noticed all the plug-ins were either shaped or color-coded to avoid mis-connections. Maybe Kubota pays attention to making identical plug-ins at least benign, if not harmless ?

Interesting thought, and that would be cool. seems like extra work instead of unique connectors but I don’t have any room to talk about making extra work.

 

[CiscoRanger]

One reason I hadn't been following this thread is I've been re-assembling a Honda Aspencade that was taken apart for electrical issues.

hows the cruiser coming along? Did you finish it?