L4150 Repair Restore

PoTreeBoy

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Mar 24, 2020
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OK. We see it's synchronized 1 - 4 but not Hi - Lo.

The PTO Is independent and has 2 speeds, standard 540 and 750 which I guess could be used as an economy mode.

It does have the single stage dry clutch, which, if you get the PTO working, will prove it out. With the engine off and the PTO shifter in neutral, you should be able to turn the output shaft fairly easily, since it doesn't have a PTO brake like many of the newer tractors. With the shifter in high or low you should not be able to turn it by hand. Once you get to that point, you should be able to run/stop the PTO with the engine running.
 

CiscoRanger

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I need to spend more time with those pages because I'm not totally understanding, but am I correct in assuming that the single dry clutch disengages engine power for all downstream stages of the transmission? Meaning, it separates everything else from the output shaft of the engine.

I believe that with the PTO in H/N/L I can spin the output shaft. I will verify that tomorrow. And it has the feel of spinning reduction gears, if you know what I mean.... If true, then that would point to all other systems being in neutral, and the clutch either stuck disengaged, or completely shot.

Otherwise, the PTO gear shifter is not engaging the gears.

If the clutch is stuck disengaged (or shot), then I could technically be rotating the entire shaft with everything being in neutral (hi/lo, main gear, and shuttle). Will def try it out.
 
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Nicksacco

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Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
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Bahama, NC
I need to spend more time with those pages because I'm not totally understanding, but am I correct in assuming that the single dry clutch disengages engine power for all downstream stages of the transmission? Meaning, it separates everything else from the output shaft of the engine.

I believe that with the PTO in H/N/L I can spin the output shaft. I will verify that tomorrow. And it has the feel of spinning reduction gears, if you know what I mean.... If true, then that would point to all other systems being in neutral, and the clutch either stuck disengaged, or completely shot.

Otherwise, the PTO gear shifter is not engaging the gears.

If the clutch is stuck disengaged (or shot), then I could technically be rotating the entire shaft with everything being in neutral (hi/lo, main gear, and shuttle). Will def try it out.

Something I learned from my restoration is that many things didn't operate well or not at all due to the lack of attention and RUST! PTO shifter wouldn't move. The GST gear changer had a broken cable. The brake linkages (pins) were rusted immoveable, etc, etc.

Something you might want to do is spray a lot of penetrant on ALL the moving linkages and controls and work them over and over until they loosen. A heat gun will also help. It's a pain but there it is.

Of course this is only a first step to keep from beating yourself up. Eventually if you decide to keep the machine, you'll likely remove, clean and potentially replace the worn/rusted parts as needed.

I started a thread awhile ago about tools that a lot of guys responded to with more ideas. Here it is if you need it.

 
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PoTreeBoy

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I need to spend more time with those pages because I'm not totally understanding, but am I correct in assuming that the single dry clutch disengages engine power for all downstream stages of the transmission? Meaning, it separates everything else from the output shaft of the engine.

I believe that with the PTO in H/N/L I can spin the output shaft. I will verify that tomorrow. And it has the feel of spinning reduction gears, if you know what I mean.... If true, then that would point to all other systems being in neutral, and the clutch either stuck disengaged, or completely shot.

Otherwise, the PTO gear shifter is not engaging the gears.

If the clutch is stuck disengaged (or shot), then I could technically be rotating the entire shaft with everything being in neutral (hi/lo, main gear, and shuttle). Will def try it out.
Yes, the dry clutch disengages the engine from everything else. The power splits, via gears, to the PTO section and the travelling sections. The PTO shaft takes the high path, over the differential, and the travelling shaft is below it.

The shaft to the PTO is several segments coupled together. With the selector in neutral you'd be turning the clutch disk and the transmission input shaft up to the shuttle clutch assembly, but no further since those clutches are disengaged with no hydraulic pressure.

The dry clutches freeze engaged from unuse. Most have a means of holding the clutch disengaged - sometimes it's a block of wood, my L35 has a metal hook that hooks near the clutch pedal.

Incidentally, if you decide to remove the shifter cover to fix the shifting issue, you may be able to see part of the PTO shaft. But part of it is hidden by a gear cluster that uses it as a support shaft, riding on bushings.
 
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CiscoRanger

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Yes, the dry clutch disengages the engine from everything else. The power splits, via gears, to the PTO section and the travelling sections. The PTO shaft takes the high path, over the differential, and the travelling shaft is below it.

The shaft to the PTO is several segments coupled together. With the selector in neutral you'd be turning the clutch disk and the transmission input shaft up to the shuttle clutch assembly, but no further since those clutches are disengaged with no hydraulic pressure.

The dry clutches freeze engaged from unuse. Most have a means of holding the clutch disengaged - sometimes it's a block of wood, my L35 has a metal hook that hooks near the clutch pedal.

Incidentally, if you decide to remove the shifter cover to fix the shifting issue, you may be able to see part of the PTO shaft. But part of it is hidden by a gear cluster that uses it as a support shaft, riding on bushings.
MAJOR UPDATE: Well boys, to be honest, I'm almost embarrassed to post this, but after reading your post, Po, I went to go check the PTO and noticed a metal bar by the clutch:

IMG_0102.jpg


Clearly it is to lock the clutch disengaged 🤦‍♂️. I hadnt noticed it because the clutch pedal still has a significant amount of downward travel left, even with it under this bar. So After getting it on top of the bar (unlocked), the PTO stopped turning by hand.

So the PTO works now, H/N/L. The clutch is fully functioning too, it appears. So out of curiosity, I hopped up on the tractor and tried the drive....It works also!!! Shuttle shift is functioning F/N/R! I drove it back and forth a few times and the shifting is seamless. (excuse me while I go throw away my hydraulic gauges.) Wow.

It seems everything is functioning as it should with the exception of the main gear shifter!!!

How awesome. Still some work to go (like fixing the main gear shifter), but I cant thank you guys enough for working with me through this problem.
 
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TheOldHokie

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MAJOR UPDATE: Well boys, to be honest, I'm almost embarrassed to post this, but after reading your post, Po, I went to go check the PTO and noticed a metal bar by the clutch:


Clearly it is to lock the clutch disengaged 🤦‍♂️. I hadnt noticed it because the clutch pedal still has a significant amount of downward travel left, even with it under this bar. So After getting it on top of the bar (unlocked), the PTO stopped turning by hand.

So the PTO works now, H/N/L. The clutch is fully functioning too, it appears. So out of curiosity, I hopped up on the tractor and tried the drive....It works also!!! Shuttle shift is functioning F/N/R! I drove it back and forth a few times and the shifting is seamless. (excuse me while I go throw away my hydraulic gauges.) Wow.

It seems everything is functioning as it should with the exception of the main gear shifter!!!

How awesome. Still some work to go (like fixing the main gear shifter), but I cant thank you guys enough for working with me through this problem.
Congratulations - now go buy a lottery ticket while you are hot :p
 
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PoTreeBoy

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MAJOR UPDATE: Well boys, to be honest, I'm almost embarrassed to post this, but after reading your post, Po, I went to go check the PTO and noticed a metal bar by the clutch:

View attachment 88496

Clearly it is to lock the clutch disengaged 🤦‍♂️. I hadnt noticed it because the clutch pedal still has a significant amount of downward travel left, even with it under this bar. So After getting it on top of the bar (unlocked), the PTO stopped turning by hand.

So the PTO works now, H/N/L. The clutch is fully functioning too, it appears. So out of curiosity, I hopped up on the tractor and tried the drive....It works also!!! Shuttle shift is functioning F/N/R! I drove it back and forth a few times and the shifting is seamless. (excuse me while I go throw away my hydraulic gauges.) Wow.

It seems everything is functioning as it should with the exception of the main gear shifter!!!

How awesome. Still some work to go (like fixing the main gear shifter), but I cant thank you guys enough for working with me through this problem.
That's good! Probably saved you some trouble freeing up the clutch. So the main tranny is in gear, you just don't know which one?
 
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CiscoRanger

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That's good! Probably saved you some trouble freeing up the clutch. So the main tranny is in gear, you just don't know which one?
First off, Thanks Po for your help and time as well. And yes, thats right. I didnt spend much time playing with it just now, its a little dangerous with no seat and the tilt lock taken off the steering wheel. But it seems that it is in a gear and is not changing that gear. I think I still need to pull the main shift lever cover and see what is going on with that.

Off the top of my head, whats left is:

1- Main gear shift lever
2 - Power steering issue pulling hard right occasionally. (that would suck to be driving at speed and have that happen)
3 - Electrical - Need a vacuum sensor. Theres a broken connection at one of the dash plugs that needs to be re-soldered. Head lights. Tail lights. Main lights switch. etc.
4 - Would be good to replace the soft coupler on the suction line.
5 - Will likely replace both suction line o-rings
6 - Decide if I want to go back to hard lines on the shuttle shift. The hoses do rub the brakes.
7 - Fuel stop solenoid (there is a manual pull cut-off, key off would be nice tho)
8 - That triangle knob I mentioned early on is (i think) a shuttle shift lock to neutral. Nice safety item to have.
9 - Rad fan replacement
 
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PoTreeBoy

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First off, Thanks Po for your help and time as well. And yes, thats right. I didnt spend much time playing with it just now, its a little dangerous with no seat and the tilt lock taken off the steering wheel. But it seems that it is in a gear and is not changing that gear. I think I still need to pull the main shift lever cover and see what is going on with that.

Off the top of my head, whats left is:

1- Main gear shift lever
2 - Power steering issue pulling hard right occasionally. (that would suck to be driving at speed and have that happen)
3 - Electrical - Need a vacuum sensor. Theres a broken connection at one of the dash plugs that needs to be re-soldered. Head lights. Tail lights. Main lights switch. etc.
4 - Would be good to replace the soft coupler on the suction line.
5 - Will likely replace both suction line o-rings
6 - Decide if I want to go back to hard lines on the shuttle shift. The hoses do rub the brakes.
7 - Fuel stop solenoid (there is a manual pull cut-off, key off would be nice tho)
8 - That triangle knob I mentioned early on is (i think) a shuttle shift lock to neutral. Nice safety item to have.
9 - Rad fan replacement
You're welcome. It was fun and I learned a few things.
 
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Nicksacco

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Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
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Bahama, NC
Great news!
Great success!
Now perhaps some youtube videos....
 
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CiscoRanger

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Oct 3, 2022
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Great news!
Great success!
Now perhaps some youtube videos....
Haha. Thanks Nick. Appreciate your help! Still some work to go for sure. Ordered some parts, so it will be a few days before I get back to it. If the weather allows this weekend, I'm going to try and pick up the implements that come with the tractor. Theres a mower, and I'm not sure what all else. Who knows what shape those will be in.

I read through your tools thread. Great info, thanks for sharing that. I really like that inductive bolt heater. Its on my toolkit wishlist now, and Christmas is coming! :cool:
 

CiscoRanger

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Oct 3, 2022
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Update: I pulled the cover off the main gear selector today. This was rotating freely front to back with no gear engagement.

IMG_0118.jpg


Not much under the cover, pretty simple design...two sliding shift arms with detent balls and springs Gasket still looks fine also. I'll drop some shop towels in there and clean the surfaces, gasket, and probably get a turkey baster to suck some of that junk out of the bottom:

1665522026667.png


On the top side, it was as I had thought (and hoped) the spring pin was broken and the shift arm was freely rotating around the shift rod:
IMG_0119.jpg


Theres a wire that Kubota installs through the spring pin and candy cane's the ends. They call it a locator wire, which I assume is - as in this case - not to lose the pieces. Although I'm not really sure where they would have gone, it is just a bowl underneath. In my opinion, it was much smarter for Kubota to make it a bowl, and not have it open straight to the bottom of the transmission case. But Double protection I guess?

IMG_0120.jpg


Here are the pieces removed, cleaned up and lightly oiled, til the new pin arrives. The detent ball goes in the cover for left to right detent. Gonna try not to lose it. :cool::

IMG_0122.jpg


Honestly, I'm glad the pin is getting replaced before I get everything buttoned up and then it breaks. It sees a lot of repetetive stress, I'm sure. So best to replace now. New pin should be here Thursday, and should get it buttoned up and tested. 🤠
 
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Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
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central ny
That is such a great find!

I had an issue with my 8N that has the Sherman auxiliary over/under transmission in front of the original. Every once in a while it would lock up when I was mowing and changed direction on a slope. I would get it unlocked by rolling to a flat spot and roll it by hand at the back tire while messing with the shifter. I finally took the shifter cover off and found a dog point set screw in the linkage that the tip had sheared off allowing it to get into 2 gears at once. Replaced that screw and its safety wire and it has been good since.

Bill
 
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CiscoRanger

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That is such a great find!

I had an issue with my 8N that has the Sherman auxiliary over/under transmission in front of the original. Every once in a while it would lock up when I was mowing and changed direction on a slope. I would get it unlocked by rolling to a flat spot and roll it by hand at the back tire while messing with the shifter. I finally took the shifter cover off and found a dog point set screw in the linkage that the tip had sheared off allowing it to get into 2 gears at once. Replaced that screw and its safety wire and it has been good since.

Bill
I've wanted an 8N for awhile. Just never have seriously looked. Not really for any particular reason other than its a neat old tractor.
 

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
591
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central ny
I've wanted an 8N for awhile. Just never have seriously looked. Not really for any particular reason other than its a neat old tractor.
I still have it as it is my snow plowing tractor and a lot of other things when the backhoe is on. I picked the L2501 because of it being about the same size and I wanted a loader and backhoe.

Bill
 
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PoTreeBoy

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Is there a spring in there also? I don't think you're in far enough to worry about this, but I fought a Toyota Hilux 5 speed with a buddy until we figured out a little shuttle pin (my term) between two of the fork shafts had worn just enough to let both clusters shift. If you notice any wear in those small parts, I'd replace them.

BTW, in all this discussion we haven't been given the opportunity to critique your choice of tractor 🙂. Are you planning on keeping it, do you need it?

Also, I meant to remind you to keep an eye on your fuel and fluid, including after you reinstall the loader. No telling what you'll break loose. I'd consider some algaecide in the fuel.
 
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CiscoRanger

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Is there a spring in there also?
Yes, it is under the bolt in the pic of the top cover. The detent ball was small enough to fall out when I removed the shift rod, but the spring is too long to make the corner. I'll likely have to remove that bolt to reinstall the rod, and drop the ball and spring in, after.

I don't think you're in far enough to worry about this, but I fought a Toyota Hilux 5 speed with a buddy until we figured out a little shuttle pin (my term) between two of the fork shafts had worn just enough to let both clusters shift. If you notice any wear in those small parts, I'd replace them.
I cant even imagine how bad that probably sucked to figure out. Thats one you laugh about later for sure - and are proud of.

It's good advice and I agree. Part of the reason I'm replacing things like the fan, orings, sleeve, temp sensor (that is currently installed). Better to do now than tear it back apart.

BTW, in all this discussion we haven't been given the opportunity to critique your choice of tractor 🙂. Are you planning on keeping it, do you need it?
LOL...I think this tractor chose me! :ROFLMAO:

I am planning to keep it. I'm a fan of old diesels that dont have a bunch of "smart" stuff put in them yet. Ive got an old 2-wire start generac 25k Diesel genset on a transfer switch that is the same. Just a governor, a coolant temp cutoff, and an oil pressure cutoff. Parts are the challenge sometimes, but they are so much easier to work on.

Do I need it? Technically, no. I have a bobcat that I can do practically anything with. I mow, clear, pull trees, 8' disc, and a couple of years ago, I even took an old 3-point brush hog log splitter that I bought for $300, flipped it upside down, and made a skid steer log splitter out of it. Nothing like splitting logs in the A/C in texas, or in the heat in Winter for that matter. Here's some pics:

IMG_0127.PNG


IMG_0124.jpg


IMG_0125.jpg


IMG_0126.PNG


IMG_0128.PNG



While I dont "need" a tractor, I've wanted one to do the tractor stuff, like discing, mowing, etc. And now that we have cows, I'll be clearing some more small pasture for them, and trying to hay some of the small pastures we dont have fenced yet.

Tractor implements seem to be quite a bit cheaper than Skid Implements, too, which I attribute to not needing a hydraulic motor on every attachment. So all pluses.

As a side note, a tractor is also nice because you can climb off the side, while a load is in the air. I cant do that safely with the bobcat, so I dont do it. Things like filling feeders, hoisting, slinging chain is all easier when you can get out of the equipment with a load in the air.

So to drag out that answer...yes, I want to keep it for a lot of reasons. As you said, it seems like a capable mid-HP tractor, complete with implements.

But lets hear everyone's thoughts on the choice of the tractor as well. :cool:

Also, I meant to remind you to keep an eye on your fuel and fluid, including after you reinstall the loader. No telling what you'll break loose. I'd consider some algaecide in the fuel.
Thanks for that reminder. If all checks out, I'm going to do a full fluid filter change, including fuel. I also want to make sure that key warning lights come on like coolant temp, hyd temp, oil sure, etc...even if I have to wire up after market lights on the dash. And good call on the algicide. Our off road diesel comes with it...so as mentioned, depending on how much is left in the tank, I will likely just drain what's in the tank and go with fresh.

Still a long way to go on this. Especially if I re-paint it. I'm torn on doing that, because I dont want to just rattle can it and have it look like crap. So I may just leave it the way it looks.
 
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