L4150 Repair Restore

[Nicksacco]

Wow, great project tractor. Doesn't look bad, I hope everything works inside.
Appearances are decent.

Maybe too early to tell at this point regarding a full restoration. Is that what you had in mind with this one?


For kicks I went to ebay and searched on L4150. There's a lot of stuff there and I was surprised.
I found things I purchased there to be pretty decent and generally I look for OEM parts when I can get them.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

AND THIS

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

 

[woodman55]

Update: I had a couple of meetings cancel today, so I took a long lunch to get the tractor panels off and see what we are dealing with.

View attachment 88284 View attachment 88285

Some good news and bad. First the bad...The Rad fan is pretty brittle and will likely have to be replaced.

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Also the electrical is a mess, and stop solenoid is probably frozen, but thankfully theres not much to the Harness. Honestly I'm worried least about the Elec.

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On to the good news: When I pulled the dash, the shuttle valve is indeed there - along with two open ports (you were correct Dan).

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I'm still baffled as to why someone would only pull two of the 3 oil lines. Need to do some looking through the parts diagrams to make sure nothing else is missing. I do see something on the end of the valve that moves back and forth:

View attachment 88293

This is not where the shifter attaches, this is on the opposite side. Looks like something slips over it and is held by a retaining pin. More...

I am wondering if the two lines chafed each other ? The pin in the last picture, where there is no wear marks on it, may be for another application.

 

[woodman55]

The pedal is likely a differential Lock. (Don’t activate it with wheels spinning or risk breaking engagement pins. Bring the wheels to stop…engage pedal…then let clutch out and add throttle.)

Agree, plus you can see the faded decal to the left of it.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

View attachment 88302

I have the WSM and found where it talks about the rotary oriface. Havent found any linkage info yet tho, although there may not be any. Based on what it says, the oil temperature and pressure may rotate it. ?

Interesting tractor - five cylinder, hydraulic shuttle. I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but there are two hydraulic clutches, forward and reverse. That explains two of the lines between the shuttle valve and transmission, but I haven't a clue about the third one. Hopefully there are test plugs in the valve or transmission for troubleshooting after you get it plumbed up.

That orifice apparently switches as the oil heats up. I think I see a switch and wire on the hydraulic pump in one of your pictures. Maybe it actuates a solenoid based on temperature? Probably a low priority for fixing, as long as that lever is fully one way or the other.

That knob on the dash may be your 3PH lowering speed. Most are under or in front of the seat, but I see a flexible shaft going from that area to the dash on yours.

Keep posting your findings.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Wow, great project tractor. Doesn't look bad, I hope everything works inside.
Appearances are decent.

Maybe too early to tell at this point regarding a full restoration. Is that what you had in mind with this one?


For kicks I went to ebay and searched on L4150. There's a lot of stuff there and I was surprised.
I found things I purchased there to be pretty decent and generally I look for OEM parts when I can get them.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

AND THIS

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

Agree, a little too early to tell. But a full resto would be fun. First thing is to determine if the hydraulics and Transmission are in good working order. From there we will see.

I did end up getting an Operators manual PDF, so will go through that later today, and should answer a lot of the questions from yesterday.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Interesting tractor - five cylinder, hydraulic shuttle. I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but there are two hydraulic clutches, forward and reverse. That explains two of the lines between the shuttle valve and transmission, but I haven't a clue about the third one. Hopefully there are test plugs in the valve or transmission for troubleshooting after you get it plumbed up.

That orifice apparently switches as the oil heats up. I think I see a switch and wire on the hydraulic pump in one of your pictures. Maybe it actuates a solenoid based on temperature? Probably a low priority for fixing, as long as that lever is fully one way or the other.

That knob on the dash may be your 3PH lowering speed. Most are under or in front of the seat, but I see a flexible shaft going from that area to the dash on yours.

Keep posting your findings.

The new Operators manual I purchased has a full electrical schematic, so, as you mentioned - it might say what that is or goes to, and how it is actuated.

There is a knob under the seat (also frozen) that I believe is the 3-pt release regulator. I just forgot to take a pic of it. That triangle knob doesnt show in the manual that I have seen yet. I wondered if maybe it was for another application, like if you had a cab for wipers or A/C vents or something. I dunno...

 

[TheOldHokie]

The new Operators manual I purchased has a full electrical schematic, so, as you mentioned - it might say what that is or goes to, and how it is actuated.

There is a knob under the seat (also frozen) that I believe is the 3-pt release regulator. I just forgot to take a pic of it. That triangle knob doesnt show in the manual that I have seen yet. I wondered if maybe it was for another application, like if you had a cab for wipers or A/C vents or something. I dunno...

Get a copy of the Work Shop Manual - it will describe the function and theory of operation of all of the systems on the tractor and provide diagnostics for trouble shooting them. You are likely going to need it to get the shuttle shift working and properly adjusted.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

Update: I removed one of the nipples that screw into the transmission, and had my hyd guy make up some hoses and picked up some tractor Hyd Fluid. This afternoon I should get those on, fill it up, and see what happens...May pull it out and point it away from the shop first tho.

The shuttle valve was clearly removed at some point, as that 3rd oil line is loose, and the 3rd line nipple is brand new. So who knows what we'll find. Neighbor's friend mentioned some part had to be flushed, so maybe they flushed the shuttle valve?

Also, I forgot to mention that when the tractor is started, the power steering immediately steers all the way to the right. Not sure if this will correct itself once the hydraulic fluid is added, or if I have an issue with the P/S gear box.

More fun to come...

 

[CiscoRanger]

Get a copy of the Work Shop Manual - it will describe the function and theory of operation of all of the systems on the tractor and provide diagnostics for trouble shooting them. You are likely going to need it to get the shuttle shift working and properly adjusted.

Dan

Thanks Dan. I have that manual as well.

 

[Chanceywd]

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I have the WSM and found where it talks about the rotary oriface. Havent found any linkage info yet tho, although there may not be any. Based on what it says, the oil temperature and pressure may rotate it. ?

Just a thought seeing your pictures.
That linkage looks painted but dirty like the rest of the valve. Is there any wear on that to indicate it ever had any linkage attached. If not it might not be used in this application?

Bill

 

[CiscoRanger]

Just a thought seeing your pictures.
That linkage looks painted but dirty like the rest of the valve. Is there any wear on that to indicate it ever had any linkage attached. If not it might not be used in this application?

Bill

Its a great thought, and no, it doesnt look like any wear, only dirt. So you may be correct that it might not be used in my application.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Update: Well it is a sad start to the weekend. I got the hoses made up and installed under the foot platform (PITA)...

And at the shuttle valve

Was super excited to get the hydraulic fluid in and see what happened. I didnt have to wait long:

This is the suction pipe for the hydraulic pump. I guess Mr. Fix-it removed the bolts and didnt put those back either.

Good news is, looks like the bolts and o-ring are easy to find and cheap.

Guess I will spend some time this weekend tracing the rest of the hydraulic to see if anything else is missing.

This tractor and I - we are getting to know each other very well...

Happy Friday everyone!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

The new Operators manual I purchased has a full electrical schematic, so, as you mentioned - it might say what that is or goes to, and how it is actuated.

There is a knob under the seat (also frozen) that I believe is the 3-pt release regulator. I

just forgot to take a pic of it. That triangle knob doesnt show in the manual that I have seen yet. I wondered if maybe it was for another application, like if you had a cab for wipers or A/C vents or something. I dunno...

Here's what I saw, in the hydraulics section:

 

[CiscoRanger]

Here's what I saw, in the hydraulics section: View attachment 88378

Thanks. I’ll check that

Here's what I saw, in the hydraulics section: View attachment 88378

Good morning! yes I think that is the 3-pt let down adjustment under the seat :

it’s frozen and wont turn. Will have to address that at some point if everything else checks out good.

the other flexible shaft in the pics of the shuttle valve was what I removed from the tach.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Thanks. I’ll check that

Good morning! yes I think that is the 3-pt let down adjustment under the seat :

View attachment 88384
it’s frozen and wont turn. Will have to address that at some point if everything else checks out good.

the other flexible shaft in the pics of the shuttle valve was what I removed from the speedometer.

Gotcha. Those valves are known to 'freeze' up. It's a good idea to exercise them periodically. Which reminds me . . .

 

[CiscoRanger]

Quick Update: I found some bolts for the hyd suction line and got it bolted up. Its not leaking anymore.

Refilled it and we are showing on the dipstick now. But no movement. In fact, I cant even get the main gear selector to come out of Neutral.

Not sure whether to start with the hydraulic pump at this point, or the fact that I cant shift gears. Probably the clutch and gear shift. Although I am considering towing it out to the loader and temporarily hook up the loader lines to see if the hydraulics work there. That would be a quick answer to that question.

No lights on the dash at all, but with a few of the sensor wires disconnected, and not having checked the electrical or fuses, I'm not surpised.

Dont know anything about why a shift lever wouldnt shift, unless the clutch isnt disengaging (I did push the clutch all the way in).

Just an FYI, thank everyone for commenting and thinking through this with me. This is a great forum.

Back to the service manual!

 

[CiscoRanger]

OOPS: almost forgot the good news of the day. THE POWER STEERING WORKS! As soon as I hooked up the hydraulic lines, the wheels stopped trying to pull hard right while the engine is running. And after a fluid fill, the power steering seems to work great! Happy about that for sure!

 

[woodman55]

I am guessing that after sitting all these years, the linkage between the gear shift lever and the trans is stuck.

I think I would get it moving under it's own power, and the 3pt working ( this would verify that the hyd pump is working, at least a bit), then drive it out to the loader. If the trans or clutch has major issues, then the loader is of little use. I would also see if the pto works.

Glad it seems to be going your way.

 

[CiscoRanger]

I am guessing that after sitting all these years, the linkage between the gear shift lever and the trans is stuck.

I think I would get it moving under it's own power, and the 3pt working ( this would verify that the hyd pump is working, at least a bit), then drive it out to the loader. If the trans or clutch has major issues, then the loader is of little use. I would also see if the pto works.

Glad it seems to be going your way.

It’s a good point. I wasn’t so much wanting the loader to work as to know the hydraulics were by testing on the loader. With it being a hydraulic shuttle shift there is some dynamics between the clutch and the hydraulics. I don’t totally understand the relationship to be honest, and assuming the foot clutch supersedes it all. But I just thought that knowing I have hydraulic pressure is one thing I can check off the list of getting it moving under its own power.

 

[CiscoRanger]

It’s a good point. I wasn’t so much wanting the loader to work as to know the hydraulics were by testing on the loader. With it being a hydraulic shuttle shift there is some dynamics between the clutch and the hydraulics. I don’t totally understand the relationship to be honest, and assuming the foot clutch supersedes it all. But I just thought that knowing I have hydraulic pressure is one thing I can check off the list of getting it moving under its own power.

And you’re right the 3pt is probably a better test point, that’s true, and it is not coming up either. So back to the question of is my hydraulic system keeping it from moving. I’m going to check the testing procedures in the wsm, hopefully I have some of the tools needed to test it.