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I would get the head overhauled with new injectors and new head gasket. what do the cylinder walls look like? Are the smooth and shinny or can you still see crosshatch marks? If the cylinders are not worn too bad put it back together with the new head and it should be good.

Keep in mind that the one where there was no change is the bad injector. It is unlikely it is sucking air. Hopefully it has not ruined the piston and cylinder. A misfiring injector is dynamite on pistons and cylinders. Fix it ASAP and I would not use it till it is repaired.

Grind the socket just enough to get it on.

As Wolfman said you will have a ring ridge preventing easy removal of the pistons. Your liners are likely worn bad. They will be more of a challenge to remove. And the pistons do not come out the bottom.

There is an adjustment that you can do which may take out some of the play. A lock nut and set screw on the side of the box. Have you checked all the linkages and tie rods to make sure the play is not there?

Water contamination of the the hydraulic system is a good bet. When was the transmission oil last changed?

They do help but only a bit. Depends on how cold you expect it to get and whether or not it is inside out of the wind. They are usually low wattage and really only help with keeping the oil warm for good circulation along with a block heater to warm the block. I would try to find a spot for a...

All of it! The suction screen is usually at or close to the lowest point of the sump.

If it has a mechanical fuel shut off I would crank it with the fuel off and see if the noise is present or if it is an electric shut off pull the plug on the solenoid and crank. I am betting it is a bad injector. I had the same situation with my B3200 where it was running fine and then suddenly...

Something is out of whack. Are the engine mounts sagging? Are the matting surfaces on the flange and the engine pulley matching up properly. For it to self destruct in that few of hours the problem should be obvious.

The shaft is connected to the engine with 3 bolts. The other end is splined which slides onto the transmission shaft. There are 2 cap screws that go through the splined coupler that keep the shaft on the transmission. Those bolts are obviously not in place. There is virtually no in-out movement...

I am not sure if you are talking about the shaft that drives the mower deck or the shaft from the engine to the transmission. And where and what does it pull out from. More explanation is needed.

Change the fuel filter.

The 6040 is a strait mechanical injection engine. Over boost will not cause low power. Underboost will give you smoke. The fact that it is low on power after warm up leads me to the EGR. My guess is it is sticking open after warm up. It has 2 factors that cause it to operate. One is water temp...

Always engage the pto at idle. Considering how you have been doing it who knows what has happened. It may be just a cable that has come disconnected. It may be more serious.

The 2012 will have EGR but that is all. No electronic controls. Messing with emissions is not bad mojo and your engine will thank you.

I have not yet but it needs to be. There is no good reason to have a clean engine belch smoke for a minute at startup. I checked the 7040 parts and your is mechanical so I see no reason you can't do it yourself. You will need to make some sealer plates to and rerout some water lines if you wish...

I removed the egr on my 5740. Quite easy, but not sure if the 7040 has any electronics attached. On mine it was straight mechanical. I agree that it is just plain dumb to make an engine eat its own poop. And they run great with it gone.

Check that your linkage for the pto is adjusted properly. Sounds like it is not fully engaging.

+2 on Stanadyne.