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I ran a 150hp tractor for years with exhaust pressuring the coolant system to the point where there was a blast of air coming out the rad overflow. Finally fixed it but never did any harm. With yours though you are getting temp spikes at startup which means you have a leak likely right at the...

Did you replace the battery in your tractor or just jumper it with another? A really bad battery will kill even a good one so you must eliminate completely the bad one.

Is smoke more white than grey. If it is be suspicious of antifreeze. Bad injectors usually take more than a minute to clear up and usually will notice a slight miss if bad enough.

Doubt a small hole will accomplish anything. Some thermostats come with a hole to aid in letting trapped air out. If your doesn't have one it sure won't hurt. It is possible you have air trapped but you might have a bad head gasket or crack and exhaust is being pushed into the cooling system.

An infrared thermometer is a wonderful tool. Start your engine cold and then check the full length of the cylinder head as it warms up. If you show any hot spots then you likely have a problem.

Are you using an infrared thermometer?

When you say thermocouple do you mean an infrared thermometer? 95c is like 200* F. It seems incredible that you can get those temps in that short of time. Is that from stone cold? If this is truly the case then you have something going on. Best guess is a blown head gasket or cracked head close...

Even at that, you could have no coolant in your engine and it would not over heat in that length of time.

It is physically impossible for you to get temp spikes a few seconds after starting a cold engine. That eliminates any mechanical problem. It has to be electrical involving the temp gauge.

One sensor will be for the gauge the other for the light.

Please let us know how it goes and what you find. I have one of these mowers so I will follow with interest. I wish they would make it so the pto did not stop when you raise the deck. Seems like just a little more hydraulics would cure that.

If you are getting proper oil flow and pressure to the pto clutches then you have a blown seal in the clutch pack. It is the same pump that lifts the deck that engages the pto. You can check the pressure but if it lifts the deck there should be plenty of pressure/flow to engage the pto. Just for...

Sounds like a bad sensor or gauge. Thermostats don't act like that. Good idea to change the thermostat though and also to check the new one. I have had more than one new thermostat not work properly.

Unless your pump has rebuildable end caps it can't be rebuilt. The gears are only part of where the wear occurs. The biggest wear item is the end caps.

But the pump was checked, correct? Any competent pump tech could spot that in a heart beat. It would also show up with a flow check.

A good fuel conditioner and lots of work will clean it up. You will need to increase the oil changes as most of the sludge will end up in the oil.

Its not the best for an engine because the engine doesn't get hot enough to boil out the condensation and acids in the oil. Depends how long it was run that way. One way to tell is to look inside the valve cover and see how much sludge has built up.

The end cap bushings should have a very light grease or oil. If it has a gear reduction a light synthetic grease would be best so it doesn't get too stiff when cold.

The tack drives off the front of the gear case with a 90* angle drive which likely increases the speed by twice. I'll bet it has been changed. Or, your tach needs lubrication!

Makes no sense. Assuming they did all the test correctly. It would not be the first time a shop messed up. I am not saying that this is your case but it does happen on a disturbing regular basis.