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I have that one -- can't go wrong for the price.

If you want parts manuals, try www.tractorsmart.com. Click on the manuals tab and then enter you tractor/attachment data as requested -- wait about 24 hours and you'll get a free PDF parts manual.

So, give us the answer. Curious minds want to know.

I went through a similar bout with my 3 pt not too long ago. I raised it all the way to adjust something (forgot just what at this point) and then it wouldn't move at all --- wouldn't go down. It was stuck in the fully raised position. Started to take it apart to find the problem and, as I...

Seems to me that it's rated to lift 900 lbs?? Verify --- don't take my word for it.

Absolutely georgeous!!!!!!

I would make double sure that the battery has a good ground ----- that may be why it's not working. When you jump it, you may be supplying the ground needed through your other vehicle. That'll get it started and it'll run fine without the battery --- all it's there for is to get it started...

I'll second that ---------------

It's a tractor!!! If you want a museum piece, then by all means, get it professionally cleaned up and painted. But, if you plan to use it regularly, spray cans over the existing finish will really improve the looks and you'll not feel bad the first time you scratch it up --- just get out your...

Sounds like a shifter issue, but I can't help beyond that observation. Pulling the shifter should be easy --- look and see what fell off.

May have been www.tractorsmart.com. Check the manuals section --------

Kind of a crap shoot without some data. I guess you don't know if it's been overhauled before?? You say it ran pretty well before you took it apart. That could be a clue. What were/are some of the basics? Compression? Oil pressure? Engine temp?? Did it pull hard when it was running or was it...

Be more specific --- when you say none of the hydraulics work, do you mean just the 3 pt?? Do you have a loader?? Is there anything beyond TPH that doesn't work??

"I did get a 2 volt drop from the starter terminal reading to the back of the ignition switch, from 12.59 V to 10.59 V." You may want to get that battery load tested --- I think that's too much voltage drop. The battery should hold 12 volts while glowing and cranking.

The only quick and dirty way that I'm aware of is to check your rear wheels to see if there is a date stamped into the wheel. The assumption, then, is that the tractor ws made close to that date. Nobody worries much about the date. Most all are concerned with the hours of use not the originakl...

Nope -- no bedliners. Sounds a little hoky to me. Don't need pictures; I can visualize it.

Let me ask this --- does it continuously drain oil or does it just emit a cloud of vapor as it's running and then drip oil when you shut it down?? If it's the latter, it's probably blow by which would lead you to rings. Run a compression check to see how you're rings seal. Then take it from there.

Not that I'm aware of ---- best advice I can give you is check to see if there's a maufacture date stamped in the back wheels. If there is, the only assumption you can make is that's about the date that the tractor was assembled. Vic seems to be better able to pin down dates of manufacture --...

And, to add to the response, you don't need to do anything to bleed the air out of those cylinders. They will "self bleed" as you cycle them.

Magnaflux it --- take it to a good local machine shop and ask them to do it. Maybe $50.