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So ideally one should spill time the pump when removing and replacing to set the correct timing and not just rely on existing shims?

Well NIW, we all make mistakes every now and then, I take my hat off to you for acknowledging said mistake. I also take my hat off to you for all the great information you have provided to members of this forum. (And I'll have plenty more questions to ask in the future!) The information I have...

Page 21 of the parts manual for a B5100E shows a "Plug, Blind" which appears to be in the end of the camshaft, is that it? 15261-96860 PLUG BLIND or later model 15261-96880 http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor%20Parts%20Manuals/&file=B5100E.pdf

Hey Wolfman, is this simply gear mesh adjustment?

The following info is mainly relevant if you have already found that your camshaft plug is in situ and not leaking. If it were mine - my thoughts only It's an old worn out tractor, is it worth spending money on rebuilding it for 5 hours use per year, I doubt it, only you can decide. It's likely...

I think it might be worth draining the fuel tank and thoroughly clean it and either replace or clean out the fuel lines, fuel is cheap in the scheme of things, you need to get the crap out of your system. Then ensure you fill up with winter diesel, and make sure you don't leave summer diesel in...

Forget the blade, snowblower in operation, tractor nearly the same as yours, L3200 from member chim. http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/jim_miller7/media/Long%20Bob_zps1dwsz52i.mp4.html

You didn't put a pick up of the shaft the first time! Back like new again.

Did you try running it with the stop solenoid removed?

Allowable limit is 327, so yes enough there. While you may have stuffed injectors, they don't usually suddenly all stop/fail. I would put a gravity fed fuel hose direct to the fuel pump and try first, cant recall if the little mechanical pump has a hose that can be removed so you can feed...

When you need your machine and are away from repair facilities, you do what you can to get yourself going. Their temporary repair worked and I expect that the tractor was used to complete the required task. It probably worked so well they just didn't get around to pulling it down and having it...

Some acrylics need to go on extremely thin or they won't spray, so if it looks like you never strained it and has lots of globs in it when you spray it (even though you strained it) thin it out more, really thin. YMMV

The Wolf has started the process - if it dies quickly then it's likely an electrical issue relating to the fuel cut solenoid. So a loose wire somewhere, faulty key switch, a seat switch or relay etc.

Where did you hide the other half?

If you stick a sign up on the highway advertising the fact that you've done it will surely get you in trouble, if you don't...................

Crowfoot wrenches will possibly help and are very versatile in 12 point configuration where limited access is available. Lots cheaper out there but these were the first I found https://store.snapon.com/CROWFOOT-1-2-DRIVE--C629586.aspx

Well that's gone and stuffed it for me wanting to mount a shovel and post a picture up!

That even makes me more scared of what I'm going to find! :(

<Power down and the battery is reading ~6 volts. It's the original battery so could well be shot> Yep it's shot!

If you don't have success with your brake lines/cylinders......... Might not be the same on yours but on my B21 there are drain bungs under the brake/axle housings, mine had a lot of water in them when I got it, which of course is at the bottom as water is heavier than oil, if it were in a cold...