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Take the cap with you, plus the O.D. of the radiator inlet to make sure the kit has the right adapters.

I don't think it will matter as long as the cabs are the same. Standard cab and Grand cab would be different.

Mine does it on a paved road at high speed. My tire is somewhat out of round or has a twist in the tread. It is worse on a cold tire, but I seldom run it on the road other than when making hay. It is not a huge issue for me so will run it as long as I can. The things you need to check: 1.) If...

Have you replaced the O-rings? All Pioneer couplers are not made the same. If these are original with the tractor, I would think they are good, but O-rings are a consumable item. The more the couplers are used (connected/disconnected), the faster the O-rings diminish. If I was going to replace...

Make sure it is not something simple like a stick stuck behind the wheel. I would jack up the front end and methodically check that everything is tight. Check the lug nuts, pto u-joints and splines, ball joints and steering components. Everything in Dave_eng's photo spins (no lockin/out hubs)...

Is that an addon speed controller in the photo? Is that an addon speed controller in the photo?

I assume there are covers off so how/where does the radiator draw air from? I don't like all the electrical right in the path of the radiator. How is a person supposed to properly clean it? Chaff can really be deceiving, and the newer style radiators are a PITA to clean. Get some coil cleaner...

Honestly, I have never seen an engine mount that way. Seeing it now makes me wonder if there are restrictions between the radiator and the steering wheel. Could some sort of directional louver be missing? When I added my electric fan, I left the engine side alone and added the fan on the front...

No such thing as too much air. Now whether or not it is moving the right way is another question. Could you have the fan wired or mounted backwards? Pushing air instead of pulling air? Is the fan shroud effectively disabled (you said you had to bend it?

Knowing the solenoid wiring would be important but I would nearer think the switch to be the culprit. However, if you turn the machine off and it does restart, that would seem to factor out the switch, to some degree. Could be using a different set of contacts and still be bad. There is also a...

How many hours? White/grey smoke usually means internal issues. Are you certain you are not overheating?

Any good die-electric grease should work. Like this. CRC Di-Electric Grease: Silicone, Clear, 10 oz, NLGI Grade 2, NSF Rating H1 Food Grade - 2F136|03082 - Grainger You can find it cheaper.

This works for me.

SKF, Sealmaster, Dodge, Timken/Fafnir. They are all going to be very close to the same as long as you don't buy Chinese junk. You may want to check this out: Pillow Block Bearing Units - Motion - Motion Industries Drill down to the heavy-duty bearings.

Back to tank.

Is a hydraulic valve lever stuck? It sounds like you are starting/operating under a load.

IIRC, the old M7500 we had was not synchronized on the clutch engagement. You had to idle all the way down and it would still grind slightly.

Pokey1416 is correct. Less drips with flat faced fittings. Especially when hooking up heavy equipment that is harder to 'fudge' and get the pressure relieved, flat faced fittings can be a real bear.

A seal holds zero support for a shaft.

First, make certain your fuel tank vents are not stopped up. Common problem. Especially since there was evidence of trash in the tanks, you need to replace or at least blow out and thoroughly visualize the fuel lines from tanks to injector pump. Many of us have been down the road where you...