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I'll take a picture when it warms up. Same concept as this except he used horse stall mat and put his behind the blade- https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/diy-rubber-wings-for-54-blade.1212833/ Mine's baler belting (much thinner but very rigid) and I put mine in front of the blade. I did...

The switch part number I posted does that. Maybe even try one from a BX, looks to have the same electrical connector. 66101-55200

Just now watched an auction for a B3030 with cab. Sold for $15,000. Since yours won't run in the winter- I'd ask for a lower price.

I used 10" wide baler belting bolted to both sides of my plow to widen each side by about 7 inches. It's sold by the foot for $9 at my local Fleet Farm.

Looking at pictures of a very common 6C040-55452 switch that you can get aftermarket vs your part number, I have to wonder if the only difference is the pigtail found on your switch. If that's the case, you could cut off your existing connector and crimp on some female QD terminals and plug each...

It can be done. When I had my replacement mid-PTO shaft built, I requested that it was to be balanced since it turns at 2500 RPM.

Is the middle button on the joystick a momentary or latching push button?

In my case where my engine would not start, it was a corroded wire leading into the 30A fuse holder for the key stop solenoid. I had no power on either side of the fuse when I tested it. The supply wire simply fell out of the crimp terminal. I had to open up the loom and keep cutting back the...

I stand by my answer. The part number he gave is the part number shown on the housing in the picture I showed. Subsequent searching shows me that 15751-43010 is also a part of the same filter assembly grouping and that is a legitimate Kubota part number. Regardless, I found the post you were...

15531-43011 is a housing part number. Problem is that I believe it's a Japanese part so have to VPN into Japan to get any parts info. See the filter housing part number when zoomed into this picture. Try 1T021-43560 for the filter element and 14301-43570 and 04816-00390 for the two o-rings.

I can see why some B2601 folks are having a hard time with reverse compared to a tractor like my B2650HSDC. The pedal pivot point on the B2601 is several inches away from the pedal itself forcing you to have to push down and back at the same time. Compare that to the pivot point being directly...

Here's what he's working with. This one is from another tractor like my B2650HDSC where there's the coupling on both ends. Not my photos-

Good idea. I just placed an order for these lights to give them a try. I already have my interior apart anyways so shouldn't take too much to put them in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K56YSRK/

This one is 2018.

The nut you should be using should be a locknut of some kind. You don't want to tighten the nut tight against the auger/impeller- the bolt should be lightly snug in the hole.

Toggle switch off = 0 volts to the diverter (default position) = chute left/right Toggle switch on = 12VDC to the diverter (energized position) = chute up/down

I'd take advantage of your existing hole and pin and do the chain this way. Set your chain length so it'll tighten at a few inches above your normal trailer tongue transport height. When you lower the 3-point hitch, the chain will go slack.

Information in the US is extremely limited for your Japanese GL-35. I had to VPN into Japan to get the owners manual for your tractor. I extracted this page to an image file then sent it through Google's Translate for images.

3-pt movement is all mechanical and hydraulic, no electronics involved.