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Did you try pushing down on the hitch?

The 3-point hitch uses gravity to lower. There should be a round knob below the seat that you'd turn and this knob regulates how fast the hitch lowers. This knob has no effect on how fast the hitch raises. If the hitch hasn't moved in a while and there's no weight on it, you may need to push...

No, if they were not as deep- he would have been fine. The only reason they're as deep as they are is to help tractor owners line up their loader with the bucket while attaching. Trimming off the flanges as shown would have worked-

See this thread starting here- https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/kubotas-dirty-little-secret.66846/page-2#post-688335 Not sure why there's two threads for the same thing- should be merged.

I believe the default (no switched power) is for chute left/right operation, at least on my older blower it is. Is there power at the switch and is the switch itself working?

I think your terminology is confusing some people. Rather than saying 2" thicker, you mean the side flanges are 2" deeper on a tractor bucket compared to a skid steer bucket. Kubota skid steer bucket for reference-

For stuff like this, I like to use Google image search for ideas...

On his FB post, he just ordered the seal today. I'd rather have the info documented here for others to find because any info posted to FaceBook is lost in a matter of days.

If you're looking for the seal that has the marking AE1037E on it, it's found in this assembly as #050- https://www.messicks.com/KU/84467?diagramId=323582&sectionId=214745 PN 09500-20428 https://www.messicks.com/images/parts/926/ku_09500-204281.webp

Saw your post on FB. #550 would be the shaft seal that goes in #530, the cover shown in your picture where the shaft seal is leaking. #270 is the seal for the trunnion arm, #290.

Couplers are replaceable- order and install the couplers you need to make things work.

Many alternators require the dash charging lamp to be functional. I'd start by changing the bulb since that's an extremely easy and cheap repair.

You could also try an equivalent from McMaster- https://www.mcmaster.com/products/bumpers/bumpers~/

Looks great! Are you willing to print/sell a version of your switch housing but to fit the factory 13mm loader lever diameter?

I use https://www.trustedparts.com/en to search the main electrical component distributors for electrical components. It makes it quick to search for variations across multiple sources at the same time.

I went through this myself recently. I already had a power steering pump pulley puller (PSPPP for short) and it turned out to work perfectly. I used a hose clamp to hold the two halves of the PSPPP together (without the outer ring) snug but not too tight on the steering shaft. I then set my...

Broken zerk fittings are easy to get out since the hole's already there for a screw extractor.

Go with a NOCO GENIUS2D onboard charger and a GCP1 AC port plug https://amzn.com/dp/B07W3QSMF9 https://amzn.com/dp/B009ANV81S If you want to be able to plug in a block heater at the same time, go with a GCP2 port.

I've ordered and confirmed fitment. Crimp terminal housing TE Connectivity pn 172129-1 Male quick disconnect terminal TE Connectivity pn 170340-1

If it's anything like my B2650, it's the wiring that goes to/from the slow blow fuses. The picture is from when I picked mine up from an auction. It was a big corroded mess in there. One wire going to the fuse block would be from the battery and two wires coming from the fuse block would be for...