Search results

If your L2501 is 4wd and has a loader on it by chance then you should have plenty of traction for that blade. In general i would say: Adjusting top link adjusts the aggressiveness of the blade’s ‘cut’. Spinning the blade around and pulling it ‘backwards’ with it facing the rear is a decent...

Appropriate loaders definitely exist but ots very unlikely to be easy for you to get one mounted unless you are a decent fabricator, or know one, or are willing to pay the going rate to hire one. A loader mounts to the tractor via a subframe and one would have to be fabricated or modified to...

It’s what i would call a ‘mini-skid’ but i guess kubota calls it a Stand-on Compact Loader (SCL). They almost all use the ‘mini skid quick attach’ coupler which isnt sold on BXs although it probably should be. Mini skid attachments are much more appropriate in size and weight for a BX then a...

Renoving the loader might help with bouncing somewhat but it wont make it ‘softer’. If rutting or turf damage isnt occurring with it then the 3pt counterweight is probably the most pragmatic solution. Other than that i would just lower rear tire pressure a bunch. Like, 10psi. If you had...

Making sure those end caps on hydraulic valves are actually sealed or at least greased inside is definitely a good idea.. I had to ‘repair’ a stuck valve on a log splitter i borrowed that was all rusted solid in that area.. after all the work i saw the appeal of the $80 splitter valves you see...

Torch, i agree with most of your points. I know not everyone is fluent in the concepts of gear ratios but i find it pretty intuitive to ballpark a 'safe max rpm' based on the proportion between 540 and 750 rpm. For example 540 / 750 = 0.72 X (engine rpm for 540 @ pto)= new max engine rpm...

Based on what ive seen inside engine blocks that i've torn down (which is many) i dont think you can realistically 'flush out' all the crud that accumulates in the water jackets in any single event.. the stuff would clog the thermostat and then radiator if it really all came out in a hurry. I...

I also agree with just poking something through the block drain hole and seeing what happens. This is pretty common with block drains which are very rarely removed so whatever coats/blocks them on the inside has time to almost fossilize with all the heat cycles, turning into something that most...

I have a near identical backhoe on a B8200 and i run the pto in the higher range and the engine at lower rpm. Most of the hydraulic pumps on these backhoes, or tractors this size in general, require no more than 8-10hp to make max pressure at their max flow. If you spin them slower they flow...

OK I see what you mean now and all of your options are going to require minor fabrication unless somebody just makes extremely long draw pins you could put in there that won’t bend from the weight. Are you capable and willing to cut and weld?

Shot in the dark here but some implements have their drawpins mounted on adjustable brackets so you can shift everything one way or another to offset the implement to one side. If that were the case youd just loosen bolts and move the brackets around. Also some implements let you face the draw...

Landscape rakes are not very demanding of either hp or traction so you can go on the big side and still be ok. 5’ would be minimum i would consider, 6’ would be fine too unless it was gonna give you serious maneuverability issues.

I think ive been taken the wrong way before on this.. i often try to put ‘good advice’ (in my mind) into a conversation even if the OP doesn’t need it becsuse while the OP may have started the thread, there’s no telling how many other people may read it in the future and the advice might be...

Im sad to be late to this one! Firstly I’ll refer you to this thread which will very likely make your day: Same thing on a Toro Next, i’ll say that it’s a less scary thought than you might assume durability wise, because a front mount mower is basicaly built like a backwards tractor. Thats...

Well, i can tell you i like it a lot more than the B670 im used to just by the greater size! Having the reach makes for a better time operating. Plus, having the weight of the backhoe is kind of a ‘multiplier’ for the loader as well, because the weight adds a ton of traction for pushing the...

Ah ok. I was referring to the hoses coming off the hydraulic block closer to the engine, the ones visible in this pic: Those are the ones that have to be ‘recirculated’ and cant just be plugged off. The JD sounds nice. The Kubota can push a lot harder purely because it does have a low range...

Since these pto’s engage by the clutch pedal, it is not really an issue of hp to get them started, you just ease into it the same way you would when rolling away from a stop with a truck that was towing something as opposed to empty. Once it is spun up the HP matters, but it only matters to how...

Yeah, put them back and just check that they actually tighten onto the surface and not just getting tight because theyre hitting the bottom of the hole. I messed with that area a while back and from what i remember those are some very deep holes so i think youll be ok. As far as terminating...

The last part of the stabilizer cylinder repairs was fixing the super sloppy base end holes which had been subjected to a lot of fore/aft swinging of the cylinder because the stabilizer arm itself was not strong enough to avoid flexing fore/aft and took the cylinder with it, wallerin' the base...

Another thing i did for the stabilizers was build bigger pads for them. The stock pads, if that's what these were, were too small in my opinion and both sank in too easily AND slid on the surface too easily with their radiused edges. I think the stock pads were about 7x4". I cut some 9x6"...