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On BX's the right side link/lift arm is adjustable so you can tilt the attachment in one direction or the other. It has several inches of travel using a threaded turnbuckle type adjustment. Not a huge range of motion, I seem to recall my BX could tilt a box blade so one side was 4 - 6 inches...

So it sounds like you have a heavy snowblower hanging on the front and no extra weight in the back. Is that right? Adding chains in back will help with traction but weight in the back should also be part of the plan because these little tractors are generally front-heavy even before mounting...

Loss of power could mean several things. It would be helpful if you could share some more detail. Like how is the engine running... sounds normal or not, running hot, smoking, etc. Or does the engine seem Ok but the tractor doesn't have enough pulling power? What type of transmission does it...

The amount of ballast needed depends on the terrain you need to drive on. What works fine on flat level ground may not be adequate going down a bumpy, uneven trail. I always thought it was better to have the back end being more "firmly planted" than "just right on flat ground".

After making a stronger solid mount bracket that eventually failed just like the OEM one did on my BX2230, I did pretty much the same thing using some inner tube rubber and aluminum stock to secure the air cleaner and still allow it vibrate. Didn't look too pretty but never broke again...

Adding the white bottle Power Service to the fuel will keep the fuel tank from gelling. But if the lines and fuel injectors have also become blocked, you may stiil need to do something to warm things up so the treated juice can flow into the lines. One of those torpedo space heaters is...

Extended warranties pay for mechanical failures like a blown engine. Casualty insurance pays for loss or physical damage such as theft or a tree falling on the equipment. Never thought extended warranties gave much value but having damage/loss coverage for expensive equipment is worthwhile...

We kept our KTAC policies going for many years because it was great coverage, such as including off-premisis use, etc. Not the cheapest but we thought it worthwhile. However I read somewhere they had more recently changed the coverage terms somewhat. Check out the current coverage details...

Congratulations. Great little tractors, can do a lot for such a small unit. I miss mine... had it for 15 years, but we got old and sold out. Be thoughtful what you drive over. Ground clearance is not bad with the mower deck removed but the underbelly leaves hoses, filters and cooling fans...

Well I guess it depends on what kind of mowing or tilling. Mowing at my place involved lots of tight places where the HST came in very handy. Open fields are a different story. The tiller I used wanted a really slow crawl speed that would have been tough for my gear tractors to provide. No...

Deciding gear vs hydro depends on what you plan to do with it. If you were going to blow snow, till or mow, hydro has advanatges. Hydro really shines for loader work. If those are less important to you, straight gearbox would be your ticket. The hydro models cost more and have better...

There is a good safety reason to release the hydraulics... all it takes someone to accidentally bump the control and it will drop the thing on whatever is below. These tractors are kid magnets but it could be anyone. On the ground or solid support or pinned up!

A couple of strong guys should be able to lift the back of the loader arms high enough so you can release the support stands and hold the arms up. You may need to get that rubber mat out if it is preventing the bucket from tipping forward as the arms are lifted. Lesson learned: always deploy...

Yes. One common reservoir. Fluid change involves draining/filling the reservoir and replacing filters. Kubota brand fluid (SUDT 2) highly recommended, although pricey. Some folks like other top quality fluids. Stay away from bargain hyd. fluid.

Take left/right height measurements at 3 places: 1. Some place on the rear of the tractor itself, like the rear axle as Henro mentioned. 2. The loader mounting brackets that are attached to the frame of the tractor between the front and rear wheels. 3. At the end of the loader arms where the...

300 lbs rear ballast is minimal for loader work on BX size tractors. Not surprising it gets light in back with a full bucket in front. Add fluid to the tires, add more weight in back, put weights on the rear wheels, etc. Also helps if the operator is a bit chubby! You want some combination...

About that 300 lb ballast on the back - how is your 3 point adjusted? It wouldn't take much in the way those lower link turnbuckles are adjusted to throw the ballast a few inches to one side or the other. Maybe just enough to change the center of gravity a little to the side.

Messick's shows part # 32701-44740 for B20, available with 7-10 business day wait. Dunno if that's really the case, but maybe worth checking out with them or another dealer with a really good parts system before the cobbing begins.

Not exactly but the 4540 was about the same size as the slightly newer 4560, which I once owned. The 4560 was about 2,000 lbs.

Sending you a private message with more information.