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Found the answer on their website. The dump angle references the loader arms. They had it hidden in the manual. Who would think to look there?

If they let you burn brush locally, you could probably get by without the chipper unless you're trying to keep it for mulch. Even so, you can buy a lot of wood mulch for the cost of a chipper.

Thanks. That was the info I was looking for. We get winter here.

Mine doesn't have one, but I'm pretty sure I'd have disabled it by now if it did.

Liquids are not compressible.

Mine doesn't lock them in 4wd. I was pulling trees last weekend and even in 4wd you had to hold down the diff lock to get both rears to spin together. It doesn't turn very well in 4wd though...

Right, but what about it makes it better than standard hy tran? Lubricity, does it flow better at low temperatures?

I've changed the engine oil, and I'm planning on changing the rest of the fluids on my L1500DT. Due to the date range of manufacture, I would imagine that the transaxle was designed to run standard Hy tran. Is there anything better that's worth the money, or is the Hy tran still the best bang...

I'm new to Kubota's myself, and have never run a blower on the front, but I'd run the blower on the back. We had a blower on the back on a JD 4030 growing up, and I never felt handicapped running it backwards. It allowed us to leave the loader on the front. A loader on the front with a blower on...

Upon further reflection, I think I'll just replace the zerks. I did buy a rejuvenator, but it's for a different project. I used Mobil 1 grease on a truck that I don't drive much. Mobil 1 grease turns to the consistency of window caulk after a couple of years.

Might be easier to just run an external pump off of the PTO if the hedging machine isn't already using it.

The only 2 that I would worry about putting zerk shrapnel into are the front axle on the bull & pinion or planetary or whatever they have in there, and they take grease just fine. The ones giving problems are on ball joints and the 3 point.

Trying to get my L1500DT ready for work. most of the zerks are stuck (one of them is broken now) From reading here, it appears that the lock n lube is the answer to prevent the broken ones, but there's another tool out there and I don't know what it's called and can't find one for sale. It's...

I searched google images and found one with the bottom of the bucket vertical. Does it reference the loader arms?

There's a Koyker model 80 loader for sale locally. In doing my research, it lists a dump angle of 45 degrees. I seem to remember that the Dual that I grew up using would dump so that the bottom of the bucket was vertical. So what is the reference for the dump angle? Does this mean that this...

I left the filter loose and let the fuel flow before I tightened it, then cracked the line loose at the pump. I didn't notice a bleeder valve on it. I'll look for it when I get home. Then I loosened the fittings at the injectors and cranked with the compression release valve open until bubbles...

Finally got it restarted after the fuel filter change. If I ever need to do it again, I'm going to pull start it. It takes forever to get the air out of the lines.

Been a few decades, but I used to run a NH super 78 baler with a farmall H once in a while. Normally we put a JD 4030 on it, but if the windrows were light, and we didn't have a lot to bale, sometimes we'd run the H.

Did the fuel filter and tachometer cable. Can't get fuel to the injectors now.

The tractor supply subsoiler I was looking at (county line)only has one tooth. I figured that only having 15 hp might make me less likely to break stuff. I hadn't thought about herbicide on the stumps, but that's a good idea. I've been planning on dumping some lime on them to make them rot faster.