Search results

At 30° the cutting width is only 51.9 inches at 40° its down to 45.9 I am assuming that you are talking about a 5" blade, not a 6 footer.

Well, a 6' blade at a 30* angle is only about 5' wide. I know that I very seldom operate at that small degee of an angle, typically more like 35*-40*. As far as weight, simple raise the hitch a little and put some of the weight on the rear tires.;)

Get a 6 footer as heavy as you can afford. Offset capability is a very nice option to have for clean-up work. I would look for a pivot type offset capability,(y) not the sliding sideways type blade.(n) Something similar to this. Heavier if you can find one heavier. :)

I always advise to get both T&T control valves to have the float feature. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. I also recommend getting the 3 rear remotes that are available. You never know when you will need a separate control for an implement cylinder. Keep in...

What works very well for the MX series tractors is a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod with a working length of 23 1/4"- 35 1/4" similar to what is on the left in the picture. This needs to be a cat 1-2 unit to keep the factory capabilities. Your tractor end takes a 3/4" pin with a 1...

For a hydraulic top link, 18"-26" works well for all the B & LX series tractors. Problem is to find one that has a 1 9/16" wide ball swivel for the tractor end.

Just to make things as clear as mud, both Fit Rite T&T cylinders fit with the sub frame. If they need to be removed for the actual hoe installation onto the hoe sub frame I can not say. What I can say is that I have not had a single complaint about the Fit Rite cylinders fitting with the back...

Based on your logic, why have any hydraulic links on the 3pt at all? Do you "really need them"? After all, if the implement really needs to be adjusted, just stop and do it manually. After all, how often do you "really need to make 3pt link adjustments anyway"? And as far as slowing the flow...

Electric actuated valves work fine for some things. IMO, they are not the optimum valve for making fine or gradual adjustments and are pretty much out for any specialty operation such as self canceling or float featured valves. Not the best way to go for operating a top & tilt set IMO. The...

I'm talking a short steep bank that you do not drive on. Makes no difference, I'm just passing on info from my customers. I don't do much mowing at all, so I have no personal experience. My main tractor use is grading and field work.

Ever mow pond banks? I have many customers that state that even though their mowers have the floating linkage, it does not allow the mower to move enough for their conditions-circumstances. This would also apply for backing up a bank and mowing the lower part of the bank. Plus, not everyone...

Only 2 negatives that I can think of at the moment. Flats, so depending on what the surfaces are if that is a real concern or not. Transporting, if you need to trailer and you are close or at your weight limit. For me, the added weight, improves traction, stability and ride enough that I would...

The only way that would work properly would be to fully retract the rod before you put it in float mode. If in any other position, the rod will only retract to the position that you opened the valve. If the rod was fully extended and you opened the valve, nothing would move at all. You really...

Keep in mind, it is not just connecting the 2 ports to each other, but those ports need to connect to a tank port also. ;)

A separate electric valve that allows the cylinder to be in float mode can be added for about $100 plus switch & hose costs. (y)I've done this before :cool: on an LS tractor that does not offer a float feature for their rear remotes. :(

The DPOCV (locking check valve) is required in Europe? :unsure: Most of the off the shelf cylinders that you find for sale with the check valves are built in Europe. As you have come to realize, there are several advantages for using the float feature on top & tilt cylinders, thus Fit Rite...

Take a look at these male ends. They should take care of the pressure build up issues on the implement side. And just get a set of different colored caps & plugs. Forget about zip ties. :)

I would let the pressure down until there were 2 lugs (front-back) full width touching the ground. Adjust from there.

Here are some generic orifice fittings. https://www.hydraulicstore.com/hydraulic/steel-adapters/pipe-female-swivel-npsm/1404-adapters-male-swivel-with-orifice?page=1 I would get the .031 and drill out as needed. While 1 should work on the rod end port, I recommend that you use 2, 1 at each...

Take a look at the following link. Base what top link you get on the dimension asked for in the link. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html You want to get a unit that has the asked for dimension close to the mid stroke of the hydraulic top link.