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Also on the subject of L3400 (and L2800-basically same tractor), some had issues with the pump suction hose breaking. This will obviously cause loss of hydraulic system performance (pump cavitation/oil aeration). Easy to check for it. Engine off, park brake on, run your hand around the back...

IMO plastigage is absolute trash-- the stuff is just too easy to screw up with. Could one of the journals or one of the bearings been nicked during removal? Just a wild guess. They should go together pretty easily, even with the tight clearance that they run at.

Never heard of it. Are you positive that no one is screwing with you? I can't see how a properly bent cotter key can just come out, unless it's really subject to a good bit of shear stress, at which point it was just break off. If that were the case, you'd see the marks of something hitting...

Use highway diesel. Fuel costs are pretty low right now, so there isn't a huge difference in cost. At least not here. Good thing about highway diesel is that it runs through the gas station pumps a LOT faster than off-road does, and is MUCH less likely to get contaminated with water, rust...

Safe? Yes! Waste of money? Yes!

To my knowledge, all kubota equipment comes pre-filled from the factory with Super UDT2, front axles and hydraulic sumps both. Same for most (if not all) of the RTV's.

I'm thinking water in the fuel. As many tractors as I've had in the shop this year, so many of them come in and we are finding a ton of water in the fuel system...some of them run more or less fine. Yesterday did a service on an L4330HSTC, separator/filter assembly was completely full of...

Many Kioti dealers keep selling their tractors saying "they're the same as Kubota". Lot of Kioti dealers set up their fruit stand on the local corner and peddle their orange tractors. When it comes time for warranty or parts service, that dealer is long gone, never to be found again. Sad...

Yes. I have a problem child L3301 in the shop. First, the dealer should re-flash the ECU. 99.9% of the time, this will solve the issue. The original program would set a PO336 code if the engine RPM was to drop below I think 700 RPM without shutting off the key. The new program has addressed...

There are 2 hydraulic fill caps on the L2350/2500/2600/3000. One is behind the seat, orange cap that says "OIL" (or 710 if it's upside down...). If the tractor has a loader, that cap behind the seat is usually taken up with a hose and fitting. The other one is behind the shifter and has a...

That's how it's supposed to work. The same principle applies to cars, trucks, heavy equipment, tractors, etc...basically anything with a manual clutch. If it's released fast, it's going to jerk, or in some cases kill the engine (or burn tires :D)

Correct. The pump is made of an aluminum housing and side plates, with steel gears. Many (most) tractors are designed this way, and are problem free with that design in itself. What usually hurts pumps is (1) heat and (2) contamination of the oil. Hydraulic oil does 2 things (and then some)...

The other end of the spectrum....the B2320...if you had a power steering delivery pipe crack (and they did), one had to disassemble 3/4 of the tractor to replace or weld the pipe. The cylinder and rods are MUCH easier to deal with, IMO, and I've had to work both styles over more than once...

If the shuttle switch shows zero ohm in the neutral position, you have either a wiring problem or connector issue. If everything was working the day before, it might be wise to look for rodent damage to the wiring.

when you removed the screen for cleaning, how dirty was it? Was there any aluminum, steel, or brass shavings on it? Typically if there was a big problem inside the transaxle, you'd see a LOT of shavings stuck to the screen. If it will barely move and hydraulic functions are weak, there is...

if there's diesel getting into the oil, the most likely cause is a failing mechanical lift pump. Diaphragm leaks, dumps fuel directly into the crankcase. Sometimes an injector, but usually at that point, there are other complaints. Smoke, knock, rough running, leaks by with engine off an...

That or perhaps at one point one or more cylinders were filled with liquid, engine cranked, and it obviously wouldn't turn. Usually results in bent rods, but sometimes in cracked crankshaft. They'll run a long time on a cracked crank, but not forever.

Yes, adjust the feedback rod first! Seen more than a couple combine a misadjusted feedback link rod with bouncing around with a load on the 3 point, causing the entire rear part of the transmission to break ($$$). The loader issue might "fix itself" once the feedback is adjusted properly.

yes. Could be a lot of different things from adjustment of the lift link adjuster to having to remove the cam and grind a little off of it. Seen several of about everything so it's not one or two usual common causes.

what was wrong with the old pump? Was it disassembled and inspected? Seems like here was a suction screen down on the left side rear bottom of the transmission, kind of behind the L.R. wheel. The service manual shows it. May be plugged, which would explain no hydraulics. Reminds me of the...