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I hope you share the results if/when you get this assembled. I must admit I'm curious as to how all of it will fit together.

I would also suggest you loosen the hose connection on the suction tube before you attempt to put the screen back in. If you break the hose loose and gain some freedom of movement on the banjo end you may have an easier time getting the screen threaded back in without cross threading it again.

The engine stop solenoid won't care if you're in the seat or not. It won't stop the engine until the 12v signal to it gets taken away. You can always add in a "quickie" jumper wire to the solenoid circuit and keep it powered up that way. Then see if it stays running or not. I doubt there's...

Don'r rule out this little gem. It plays a part in all this too. You can change switches and wires all day and still have the same problem if this is where it's coming from. https://www.messicks.com/part/6c190-55513

The "no dash lights' condition pretty much rules out safety switches and related circuits. It smacks of battery, battery cable/ground/power connection somewhere. I would revisit that side of things. Where the ground cable bolts to the tractor would be a good starting point.

I saw the tractor today. It looks like nothing more than the wiper seal is coming apart and partially showing around the shaft. No sign of damage yet, the bearing and shaft are sound. No leaks at the shaft seal yet. I stopped by the dealer and ordered a seal, wiper, and an O ring for the...

Okay, that sounds promising. Thank you

I honestly can't answer that. I haven't actually seen the tractor yet. I was just informed today that the PTO shaft was moving around" like there was a bearing problem. I was looking at the parts breakdown to see what was involved and noticed the coupler. It doesn't seem to be necessarily held...

Okay, I give in. Your design requires one less tee than my idea. I also concede that I can't post diagrams via computer. Maybe someday I'll learn how to do that. The computer is not my second language. Maybe more like eighth, ninth, or tenth. As for the OP, should he ever return for...

I guess I don't know EXACTLY what i'm doing either, because I don't see where that valve simplifies anything. The valve I mentioned was merely a sample. I don't know what size style plumbing he has so specifics are rather pointless. And yes, I prefer O ring ports myself. Here again, merely an...

This is a cab tractor, HST, (in case that matters) with an issue with bearing, seals, snap rings, or something on the PTO output shaft. Removing the shaft seems to be pretty straight forward judging by the parts layout diagram. I'm just wondering about the splined coupler that shaft slides into...

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Ball-Valves/1-2-NPT-Carbon-Steel-7250-PSI-Ball-Valve-Dynamic-DE2-12-NPT-9-7281-8.axd Too late.

"Any suggestions" Yes. A permanent jumper hose between the two lines with a high pressure ball valve. When you connect the backhoe you close the valve. When you remove the hoe you open the valve. As simple as that.

Truth be told, I have a couple of hoses I keep handy just for this purpose. When I need to drain a tractor for repair I use one if I hope or expect to put the same oil back in. I keep a number of empty oil clean oil jugs for numerous reasons. Always handy to have some clean storage space...

I would take a short hydraulic hose with a male coupler on one end, plug that into a female coupler and pump a few gallons into a CLEAN jug. Save it future use, keeping everything neat and dry. No fuss, no mess. And no crawling around under the tractor fighting with drain plugs.

I've been following this for a while now, reading all the suggestions about gear setup. I was wondering how long it would take you to reach this conclusion.

It's up to you of course, but I wouldn't mess with pulling the tank off until I was sure it was necessary. Start with the fuel supply FROM the tank first. Remove the fuel filter, put a bucket under the filter head and turn the fuel on. Let the fuel run into the bucket and see how fast and for...

I got the link opened, but it wouldn't let me read anything but the ads for free.

You don't need to pull the cab, but you do need to pull the seat. Once the seat is out (and the floor plate under it) the pumps are in plain view. However, getting the seat up and out the back widow by yourself is a challenge.

This is no Farmall Cub. You don't have access to the main bearings until you remove the crankshaft/bearing supports. It all comes out of the block from the back end. Sorry, but I don't see it as "piece of cake", Maybe you do