Lift arms on 2350DT stuttering with auger attachment

North Idaho Wolfman

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The feedback linkage attaches to the end of the rock shaft it's under the left side of the seat.
yellow is the rockshaft, the feedback rod in the above picture will attach to where the blue circle is.

1750730958331.png
 

Russell King

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That is the feed back rod.

I can’t be 100% sure due to the angle of the picture, but it looks like there is only one nut on that rod. There should be two, one in front and one at the rear clamping the cylinder of the tab.

Please verify that the nuts are properly installed and see the illustration in post #18 for reference
 

Stuart_T

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That is the feed back rod.

I can’t be 100% sure due to the angle of the picture, but it looks like there is only one nut on that rod. There should be two, one in front and one at the rear clamping the cylinder of the tab.

Please verify that the nuts are properly installed and see the illustration in post #18 for reference
Thanks. That was just a quick pic this evening. I'll check more thoroughly tomorrow :)
 

Stuart_T

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I just looked at the original pic and yes, there is a nut each side, although I had to enlarge it to see it more clearly. Probably all needs a good cleaning and lube.
Fbk rod  nuts detail.jpg
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Someone at some point has moved the rod drastically, you can tell by the rust on the threads.
 

TheOldHokie

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I am struggling to understand how a maladjusted feedback rod can work fine with everything but the PHD. And with the PHD mounted only stutters when the PHD is being lifted out of a hole.

Remove the auger and run the PHD all the way up and down. I will bet it does not stutter.

Dan
 
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BAP

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What RPM’s are you running the tractor at when it stutters? If it is low speed, have you tried revving it up more to see if it still does it? I assume that you have checked the hydraulic fluid level??
 

Stuart_T

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Someone at some point has moved the rod drastically, you can tell by the rust on the threads.
Certainly looks suspicious. I need to clean those threads and make sure things are moving freely. and move that nut back to where it looks like it was originally set (?) Then I can see if the FB rod is moving when the PHD (or presumably anything else) is connected. (I presume that it can only be moved when the hydraulic system is operating, ie I won't be able to move it with the engine off.) What determines the "correct" setting for that nut?

@TheOldHokie: I can try removing the auger, but I should mention that this happens with the auger at rest, ie not turning. In fact I have had the PHD's drive shaft disconnected for these tests, so it has nothing to do with some imbalance in the auger itself.

@BAP: I've not tried revving the tractor up much although it's beyond "idle." As to the hydraulic fluid level, the glass is clouded and I can't check it there but I made a dipstick to check via the filler hole and it is good. Replacing the fluid and cleaning the screen is on the agenda. It got side-tracked when I ran into this problem. Perhaps I should do that first to remove that as a variable.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Certainly looks suspicious. I need to clean those threads and make sure things are moving freely. and move that nut back to where it looks like it was originally set (?) Then I can see if the FB rod is moving when the PHD (or presumably anything else) is connected. (I presume that it can only be moved when the hydraulic system is operating, ie I won't be able to move it with the engine off.) What determines the "correct" setting for that nut?

@TheOldHokie: I can try removing the auger, but I should mention that this happens with the auger at rest, ie not turning. In fact I have had the PHD's drive shaft disconnected for these tests, so it has nothing to do with some imbalance in the auger itself.

@BAP: I've not tried revving the tractor up much although it's beyond "idle." As to the hydraulic fluid level, the glass is clouded and I can't check it there but I made a dipstick to check via the filler hole and it is good. Replacing the fluid and cleaning the screen is on the agenda. It got side-tracked when I ran into this problem. Perhaps I should do that first to remove that as a variable.
Do not just randomly move the nut on the adjustment.
Follow the instructions in the WSM on how to set it.
If you set it wrong the three point will act very erratic.
It's not a simple on and off, it's a wobble connection to the lift control.
 

Stuart_T

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Do not just randomly move the nut on the adjustment.
Follow the instructions in the WSM on how to set it.
If you set it wrong the three point will act very erratic.
It's not a simple on and off, it's a wobble connection to the lift control.
Thanks. I have those pages bookmarked and will go over them carefully before messing with it. Interesting concept. From a brief perusal just now it looks like it's a matter of making small adjustments until it operates smoothly.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Certainly looks suspicious. I need to clean those threads and make sure things are moving freely. and move that nut back to where it looks like it was originally set (?) Then I can see if the FB rod is moving when the PHD (or presumably anything else) is connected. (I presume that it can only be moved when the hydraulic system is operating, ie I won't be able to move it with the engine off.) What determines the "correct" setting for that nut?

@TheOldHokie: I can try removing the auger, but I should mention that this happens with the auger at rest, ie not turning. In fact I have had the PHD's drive shaft disconnected for these tests, so it has nothing to do with some imbalance in the auger itself.

@BAP: I've not tried revving the tractor up much although it's beyond "idle." As to the hydraulic fluid level, the glass is clouded and I can't check it there but I made a dipstick to check via the filler hole and it is good. Replacing the fluid and cleaning the screen is on the agenda. It got side-tracked when I ran into this problem. Perhaps I should do that first to remove that as a variable.
My suggestion has nothing to do with imbalance. I also think you are barking up the wrong tree with the position comtrol rod. If you are deadset on messing with it do as the Wolfman says. Adjust per the WSM else you will be creatimg a new problem.

Dan
 

Stuart_T

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My suggestion has nothing to do with imbalance. I also think you are barking up the wrong tree with the position comtrol rod. If you are deadset on messing with it do as the Wolfman says. Adjust per the WSM else you will be creatimg a new problem.

Dan
I don't know if the FB rod is the problem but it's at least worth investigating as it looks like it may have been messed with at some point (but why?...) And I should ensure that it is free to move as apparently it should. I had not checked this as my older tractor didn't have this AFAIK.

Perhaps I misunderstood what your suggestion about removing the auger was about. I thought it might have been something to do with the auger rotation when powered. Removing it will just remove some weight from the far end, but that might tell me something (?)
 

TheOldHokie

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I don't know if the FB rod is the problem but it's at least worth investigating as it looks like it may have been messed with at some point (but why?...) And I should ensure that it is free to move as apparently it should. I had not checked this as my older tractor didn't have this AFAIK.

Perhaps I misunderstood what your suggestion about removing the auger was about. I thought it might have been something to do with the auger rotation when powered. Removing it will just remove some weight from the far end, but that might tell me something (?)
The feedback rod simply shuts the lift off at top of travel and holds it at intermediate settings of the control lever. It appears to be doing its job.

My auger suggestion was designed to show the lift with PHD operates normally throuhout its entire travel. It only acts up when the auger is being pulled from a hole. That leads me to suspect the auger is binding on the walls of the hole - e.g a geometry issue.

Dan
 

Stuart_T

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...That leads me to suspect the auger is binding on the walls of the hole - e.g a geometry issue.

Dan
But this is happening when not actually being used to drill a hole! Initially that was where I discovered the problem but all subsequent tests have been done merely with the PHD attached and being lifted up from resting on the ground (and the PHD drive shaft disconnected.) The next time I have an an oporrtunity to test it I'll try and get a vid of the FB rod iand see if it is moving.

I've uploaded 2 short videos to Dropbox, one showing the jerking with the PHD attached and another with no load on the lift arms. Link here (hopefully)
 

TheOldHokie

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But this is happening when not actually being used to drill a hole! Initially that was where I discovered the problem but all subsequent tests have been done merely with the PHD attached and being lifted up from resting on the ground (and the PHD drive shaft disconnected.) The next time I have an an oporrtunity to test it I'll try and get a vid of the FB rod iand see if it is moving.

I've uploaded 2 short videos to Dropbox, one showing the jerking with the PHD attached and another with no load on the lift arms. Link here (hopefully)
I missed that revision to rhe story.

In that case I would suspect binding in the lift geometry.

Dan
 

Stuart_T

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I missed that revision to rhe story.

In that case I would suspect binding in the lift geometry.

Dan
I was wondering about the lift geometry as well but it only happens with the PHD and from what I can see everything is free to move; there does not seem to be any binding in the PHD or its connections to the tractor and the PHD yoke is perpendicular to the lift arms.

"Curioser and curioser" as Alice said.