I am new here but thought I would share my experience as it might help someone in the future. I have a B2920 and really not much experience working on tractors. I had a no crank issue that happened. I found every safety switch that i could and checked them for voltage coming out of the switch. All appeared good. Next I jumped across the starter to start it to ensure battery was good. Some or all of you may know this but there is an OPC controller on the machine that appears to receive voltage from those said safety sensors. It acts as a switch to continue the flow of electricity to the starter from the ignition switch when it is "happy" by receiving voltage from all of the sensors. I was able to test each switch at this controller instead of going to each individual sensor. Once I found the wire with no voltage, with a wiring diagram, was able to trace it back to the voltage regulator. It sure makes it easier to test those sensors all from 1 place. I replaced the voltage regulator and it fixed the issue of no crank. Looking back I also realized that my battery light was always on at low idle and now that is fixed as well. Again, Maybe this is all common knowledge to everyone , but I didn't find this information readily available. For all I know it was just a fluke that I found it, but it worked for me. Hope this helps someone as I'm sure that my tractor is not the only one to ever have this type of issue.
B2920 no crank issue experience solved
- Thread starter 507 rzr
- Start date
Blue2Orange
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2380 with LA344S & QH05. SB1051. SG0554. BB1248. RB0560, Vassar dirt bucket
Thanks. Bit clueless regarding modern tractors with all their electrical switches and relays.
Welcome aboard 507.
You may be new to tractors but that's a fine bit of diagnostic detective work you did there. You must have mechanical aptitude from somewhere. You'll fit right in here.
You may be new to tractors but that's a fine bit of diagnostic detective work you did there. You must have mechanical aptitude from somewhere. You'll fit right in here.
I'm having the same issue but I'm not sure that it's the voltage controller yet vs the OPC itself. Here is the pin out on the OPC which is located on the same side as the starter but under the shrowd of the console, bolted to the instrument cluster. The switched can be tested by looking for conductance between 0.5 RB and the pin of the switch.
The PTO2 circuit seems a little odd, but I double checked it and it appears to function that way on purpose.
0.5 LW: HST Switch, on when HST is in neutral
B: Ground
0.5 GR: PTO1, on when PTO is off, off when PTO is on
0.5 OR: PTO2, off, turns on when seat is tilted forward and PTO is in low.
0.5 YR: seat switch, on when sitting in seat
0.5 WR: IC regulator / fused power
2.0 BY: to starting switch
0.5 WL: to key stop solenoid relay
2.0 BW: to starter motor solenoid
0.5 RB: fused 12V power
The PTO2 circuit seems a little odd, but I double checked it and it appears to function that way on purpose.
0.5 LW: HST Switch, on when HST is in neutral
B: Ground
0.5 GR: PTO1, on when PTO is off, off when PTO is on
0.5 OR: PTO2, off, turns on when seat is tilted forward and PTO is in low.
0.5 YR: seat switch, on when sitting in seat
0.5 WR: IC regulator / fused power
2.0 BY: to starting switch
0.5 WL: to key stop solenoid relay
2.0 BW: to starter motor solenoid
0.5 RB: fused 12V power
B2920/B2620/B2320 head scratcher no start issue.
Mowing, the tractor shut off. Cranked it and started and continued mowing. 2 days later a sputter like the fuel shutoff solenoid kicked in and and released, no other issues. A month later mom is mowing and calls me. was mowing and now wont start. After work go and inspect safety switches, all...
www.orangetractortalks.com
If you can get to the connector to the OPC under the dash, it's pretty easy to troubleshoot by testing continuity between 0.5RB and the 0.5LW, 0.5GR, and 0.5YR. The 0.5OR should not be applicable. My issue ended up being the low voltage power to the voltage regulator, but I was able to knock out the status of the safety switches very quickly. To check the connector you need to lift of the dash by removing the screw on top and then sliding it up. I don't think you are required to remove the steering wheel but it might help.