What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[ken erickson]

"How did the event turn out Ken? Busy time here and could not getaway for it."

Perhaps if I hold the event next year again. This time I will give a longer heads up!




Thanks for asking! The event turned out very good. A nice crowd, good speakers. Everyone enjoyed the self-guided tours. The weather cooperated.
A few event pictures below.

 

[arml]

Absolutely nothing today....had it mow the field yesterday, gave it a bath. Today I let it rest as I enjoyed a nice Bourbon old fashioned with it. Life is good.

 

[radas]

Added homemade chain box View attachment 83795

How'd did you attach that to the FEL bracket?

 

[forky]

"How did the event turn out Ken? Busy time here and could not getaway for it."

Perhaps if I hold the event next year again. This time I will give a longer heads up!




Thanks for asking! The event turned out very good. A nice crowd, good speakers. Everyone enjoyed the self-guided tours. The weather cooperated.
A few event pictures below.

View attachment 83813 View attachment 83814

Thanks for the update on the event. I'm happy to hear it was a success and the weather cooperated too! Nothing better than learning something new in Nature! Life amazes me every day outside here. We are fortunate to live in this part of the Country.

 

[ken erickson]

Thanks for the update on the event. I'm happy to hear it was a success and the weather cooperated too! Nothing better than learning something new in Nature! Life amazes me every day outside here. We are fortunate to live in this part of the Country.

One of the attendees discovered a, new to my land, plant species . Pepsissewa (chimaphila umbellate)

Chimaphila_umbellata

 

[Old_Paint]

Yeah

Yeah, with the bed plate/anvil at the bottom of the flywheel housing it took a bit of thought to figure out how to set it properly with any reasonable precision. Ended up making a 3” wide by about 24” long “feeler gauge” out of a scrap white oak board so I’d have something relatively non-compressible that wouldn’t potentially dull the knives. Bandsawed it to about 1/4” and used a planer to get it to final thickness to ensure both faces were parallel. There’s a very visible gap at the back of the assembly that is left exposed so if it’s cocked at an angle that’s pretty easy to see/measure. Without the feeler gauge board I don’t know how you’d set it other than eyeballing it, which just didn’t seem like a good idea.

Precisely what I was saying. I like the idea of the wooden gage. I may borrow your idea, or perhaps use plastic or fiberglass so that it doesn't dry rot or split, and make it where it covers the whole anvil to make sure it sets the anvil parallel to the knife edge. I've been too busy using my chipper to take the time to make a tool. I set the knives when I got it, as you say by eyeballing it, and paid the price. I now have some pretty significant gaps in the outer ends of the knives where they touched the anvil when the flywheel thrusted rearward (toward the anvil). Never heard it and didn't know about it until I opened it to clean out a clog due to a large chip getting stuck in the chute plenum. If there was one thing I'd ask Woodland Mills to improve, it would be the procedure/access for setting the knife/anvil gap. Ain't no way to get your hands in there to hold anything, and if you can see the knife/anvil gap, you can't see the anvil bolts because the housing blocks your view. Very inconvenient and frustrating, and something that would definitely make me shy away from doing chipper service for a living. I like things with SOLID and FIXED measuring tools and gages when the setting is so critical. The procedure says nothing about checking the thrust, either. Normally, the material being chipped should be pushing the flywheel away from the anvil between each knife, but since the end of the knife closest to the center tends to hit the material first, and then pull itself back toward the anvil, especially on larger material where the cut is much longer. It only takes the difference of a few thousandths to make a big boo-boo on the knives, and there could be that much run-out in the flywheel. Still, my chipper, my responsibility, my mistake. I own it, just making observations on how a good chipper could be better.

 

[2650fan]

How'd did you attach that to the FEL bracket?

Used existing holes in loader frame, 2 5/16x 1 3/4” bolts with nylon lock nuts
Spaced it away from frame with 2 3/4” pipe unions cut down to about 3/4”

 

[edritchey]

I look out the window at the orange machines and thought of all the stuff I needed to get done but it's like 92 and super humid out there so I got a cold one and headed for the sofa

 

[Old_Paint]

Used existing holes in loader frame, 2 5/16x 1 3/4” bolts with nylon lock nuts
Spaced it away from frame with 2 3/4” pipe unions cut down to about 3/4”

I like that design. The only addition I would make is a cover for the can. If you put one on both sides you could keep two chains handy, a biggun and a littlun. I like a 1/4" chain for dragging stuff, but want a 3/8" if I'm gonna get rough with what I want to move. I'll assume you drilled some holes in the bottom to prevent it catching full of water. Was that 4" x 4" x 1/8" steel box beam that you used for the can? That's plenty sturdy looking at the photos. I like the smaller profile, and it's amazing how much chain you can store in a relatively small place.

The hardest thing I've been trying to design is something to carry a double bit axe, SAFELY. Anywhere you put a double bit axe short of the head being stuck inside something leaves at least one exposed blade. I don't think I have to say how dangerous a sharp axe is, especially with young grandchildren that want to play around on the tractor. So far, I just haven't found a convenient/safe place to put my axe. I've had my axe since I was 14 (50 years), so as you might guess, I'm sort of used to it now. Anyone got something they're willing to share? A single bit isn't a problem, only one blade. I just don't like single bit axes.

 

[Old_Paint]

I look out the window at the orange machines and thought of all the stuff I needed to get done but it's like 92 and super humid out there so I got a cold one and headed for the sofa View attachment 83878

That's pretty warm in PA. Sounds like you have a good game plan, though.

 

[2650fan]

I like that design. The only addition I would make is a cover for the can. If you put one on both sides you could keep two chains handy, a biggun and a littlun. I like a 1/4" chain for dragging stuff, but want a 3/8" if I'm gonna get rough with what I want to move. I'll assume you drilled some holes in the bottom to prevent it catching full of water. Was that 4" x 4" x 1/8" steel box beam that you used for the can? That's plenty sturdy looking at the photos. I like the smaller profile, and it's amazing how much chain you can store in a relatively small place.

The hardest thing I've been trying to design is something to carry a double bit axe, SAFELY. Anywhere you put a double bit axe short of the head being stuck inside something leaves at least one exposed blade. I don't think I have to say how dangerous a sharp axe is, especially with young grandchildren that want to play around on the tractor. So far, I just haven't found a convenient/safe place to put my axe. I've had my axe since I was 14 (50 years), so as you might guess, I'm sort of used to it now. Anyone got something they're willing to share? A single bit isn't a problem, only one blade. I just don't like single bit axes.

Only room for one box, other side used for third function valve,
Tube was 5”x5”x1/4” should have used 1/8” though…not drilled yet but will be

 

[ACDII]

Used Herculiner bed spray on the step. Let it cure for 4 days before I reinstalled it on the tractor. We’ll see how well it holds up.
View attachment 83683

Hmm I have some left over from my truck repairs. That should make it less slick when wet. I notice yours is nice and flat, the one on my L4060HST-C is bent. Anyone confirm that it should be straight like this one on the L60 Cab? I should look at the delivery photo and see if it was bent when delivered.

 

[GeoHorn]

Yup, it will. Not much to be done for it. I normally dig 'em out, but that would leave a bomb crater right now, and you'd probably need a yard of top to put back on it. It'll still crater a little with time, but not like the sink hole that will form when micro critters and bugs eat that thing out. The WORST part about a rotting stump in the South is that it makes for a PERFECT homestead for yellow jackets. Yellow Jackets build in the ground because they want to be that little bit closer to Hell where they came from. Ground dwelling bumble bees MIGHT attack a soft pine stump, but they'll typically just build under deadfall.

So far this year, I've stirred up one ground dwelling bumblebee nest (like getting hit with a hammer in the back of the head and a headache that lasted for days), one yellow jacket nest with a couple thousand nest mates (dunno how I didn't get stung), and one baseball sized red wasp nest with about 50 bad boys on it. Fortunately, I'm not super allergic to anything, and even honey bees only swell me just a bit. Anything in the hornet family, however, triggers a rage you've never seen. Doc said it was the pheramones from the sting. Won't hurt me, but sure does piss me off. If one gets me, I locate the nest, then go back at night fall and share a drink of 87 octane or a can of Raid Hornet Spray with 'em. I make sure I get 'em all by waiting for 'em all to come home at night.

It’s been awhile since I visited this tread so forgive me if I repeat myself:

I’m going to share one the BEST things for HORNETS, WASPS, AND BEES. A cheap garden sprayer…with a cup of liquid detergent (any brand,.. laundry, dish, etc. like Dawn or Tide, etc)…and a 1/2 gallon of water. Walk up to that nest and spray gently with that soap mixture.

YOU WILL BE AMAZED at how the insects simply don’t care what you are doing…they act like it must simply be RAIN…and huddle together as you wet them down. THEN, in about 15 seconds they will begin to FALL TO THE GROUND AND DIE before 30 seconds pass. They never get angry or react badly in any way.

Is the nest high in a tree and hard to reach? Simple. Get a ”Scotts” brand sprayer which is designed for web-worm nests, etc., and fill it with liquid detergent, connect it to the water hose…and spray the nest in the same fashion. Fifteen seconds later….that entire colony will be on the ground and calmly lay down and die!

Once you do this..you will wonder why no one ever shared this with you previously. The soap acts as a surfactant and quickly seeps into their respiratory system and they instantly drown. The soap does not harm plants or other animals than insects. It can be washed away a few minutes later with a garden hose….dead insects and all.

I keep a cheap garden pump-up sprayer filled with that solution year-round here on the ranch. Even my grandchildren like to use it on wasp nests for entertainment, it works so simply and safely.

 

[Biker1mike]

It’s been awhile since I visited this tread so forgive me if I repeat myself:

I’m going to share one the BEST things for HORNETS, WASPS, AND BEES. A cheap garden sprayer…with a cup of liquid detergent (any brand,.. laundry, dish, etc. like Dawn or Tide, etc)…and a 1/2 gallon of water. Walk up to that nest and spray gently with that soap mixture.

6 years ago - ground nest- ER doctor and a couple of nurses worked to keep my airway open.
3 years ago - elec. panel box- Urgent care and a IV with a scared spouse pacing the floor.
This year - nest behind garbage can - different urgent care - steroids and antihistamine.

To get rid of nests I send the wife out with a sprayer and hose or I pay the exterminator 350 bucks !

 

[Boatman]

About #1200 front, #400 rear. Three trips with progressively larger logs. Large red maple going to the sawmill.

 

[Bill hopkins]

I finished installing my oil pressure gauge, 35 psi @ idle 45 psi above idle,
I'm happy with that, my Kubota has been rode hard and put away wet before I got it.
My re-wiring repairs worked good, many of the old wires were melted together
so I gutted it and used the search forums and wiring diagrams to fix it.
My Dynamo now puts out 13.2 V @ idle and 14.5V above idle, so today was a
good day!
CAE

I found this old post-ARE you still around?

 

[radas]

I found this old post-ARE you still around?

Last seen on here May 2012, I'd venture to guess he probably won't be back lol

 

[Magicman]

Grandson on the U25 earning it's keep.

 

[Old_Paint]

It’s been awhile since I visited this tread so forgive me if I repeat myself:

I’m going to share one the BEST things for HORNETS, WASPS, AND BEES. A cheap garden sprayer…with a cup of liquid detergent (any brand,.. laundry, dish, etc. like Dawn or Tide, etc)…and a 1/2 gallon of water. Walk up to that nest and spray gently with that soap mixture.

YOU WILL BE AMAZED at how the insects simply don’t care what you are doing…they act like it must simply be RAIN…and huddle together as you wet them down. THEN, in about 15 seconds they will begin to FALL TO THE GROUND AND DIE before 30 seconds pass. They never get angry or react badly in any way.

Is the nest high in a tree and hard to reach? Simple. Get a ”Scotts” brand sprayer which is designed for web-worm nests, etc., and fill it with liquid detergent, connect it to the water hose…and spray the nest in the same fashion. Fifteen seconds later….that entire colony will be on the ground and calmly lay down and die!

Once you do this..you will wonder why no one ever shared this with you previously. The soap acts as a surfactant and quickly seeps into their respiratory system and they instantly drown. The soap does not harm plants or other animals than insects. It can be washed away a few minutes later with a garden hose….dead insects and all.

I keep a cheap garden pump-up sprayer filled with that solution year-round here on the ranch. Even my grandchildren like to use it on wasp nests for entertainment, it works so simply and safely.

I'm gonna say I've never tried the stuff on calm hornets, wasps, etc, because I rarely find them calm. My last episode with 'em was just shortly after I pulled a 4" elm stump out, a yellow cloud formed around the stump. Fortunately for me, I was using my new stumpin' rig (upside down T made with 4x4's and 2x4 blocking/braces, and I was nearly 30 feet from them already when they came outta the ground. I just stood on the treadle a little harder and left the scene in reverse.

What I like about the Raid is that you can shoot a nest from nearly 30 feet away with a fresh can. If you're a decent shot, and hit them flying, they IMMEDIATELY fall. One drop of that stuff, they just curl up and fall. Period. THE END. I normally wait until dark, and find where they've repaired their main entry, and just shoot the Raid into the hole. Or, if I just got close and didn't hurt the nest, I turn about a half cup of gasoline in a plastic bottle upside down in the hole while they're in their jimjams. A dim flashlight is recommended, because they WILL fly to a bright one. I never light the gasoline, I just let the fumes do the hard part. I dug one up a few days later, and it had 4 combs in it, all the size of a dinner plate. There must have been 2000 dead jackets in that nest. The idiots are too stupid to build their nest with cross-ventilation so the whole nest doesn't die from fumigation. Occasionally, I run across one with multiple entries. Those are the tricky ones to deal with.

The dishwashing liquid will work if you can get it ON the bugs, but if you miss, uh-oh, they're coming, and they're not happy. Freakishly, they can figure out the direction an assault came from, and will fly straight to that sprayer. It does work, but it may take them a few minutes to die with that stuff. Normally, if I'm killing a nest, it's because one of them either stung me, or threatened to, and I'm in a rampage. I want them DEAD NOW when I see 'em. I don't play with hornets. Fortunately, I'm not allergic, but I am VERY vindictive when they sting me. If I'm spraying them with anything, I want them dead before they hit the ground if they were hanging, or dead before they leave the ground if that's where they're coming from. The biggest problem with yellow jackets is the first thing they do when disturbed is spread out and find the target. If they get behind you, you have a problem, because they will secrete pheromones which tell all their buddies where they are. I can deal with one or two stings (albeit the whole colony will pay for it) but having some heart issues makes me think I really don't want to test my immunity to them. Not a way I want to die, for sure.

 

[radas]

I'm gonna say I've never tried the stuff on calm hornets, wasps, etc, because I rarely find them calm. My last episode with 'em was just shortly after I pulled a 4" elm stump out, a yellow cloud formed around the stump. Fortunately for me, I was using my new stumpin' rig (upside down T made with 4x4's and 2x4 blocking/braces, and I was nearly 30 feet from them already when they came outta the ground. I just stood on the treadle a little harder and left the scene in reverse.

What I like about the Raid is that you can shoot a nest from nearly 30 feet away with a fresh can. If you're a decent shot, and hit them flying, they IMMEDIATELY fall. One drop of that stuff, they just curl up and fall. Period. THE END. I normally wait until dark, and find where they've repaired their main entry, and just shoot the Raid into the hole. Or, if I just got close and didn't hurt the nest, I turn about a half cup of gasoline in a plastic bottle upside down in the hole while they're in their jimjams. A dim flashlight is recommended, because they WILL fly to a bright one. I never light the gasoline, I just let the fumes do the hard part. I dug one up a few days later, and it had 4 combs in it, all the size of a dinner plate. There must have been 2000 dead jackets in that nest. The idiots are too stupid to build their nest with cross-ventilation so the whole nest doesn't die from fumigation. Occasionally, I run across one with multiple entries. Those are the tricky ones to deal with.

The dishwashing liquid will work if you can get it ON the bugs, but if you miss, uh-oh, they're coming, and they're not happy. Freakishly, they can figure out the direction an assault came from, and will fly straight to that sprayer. It does work, but it may take them a few minutes to die with that stuff. Normally, if I'm killing a nest, it's because one of them either stung me, or threatened to, and I'm in a rampage. I want them DEAD NOW when I see 'em. I don't play with hornets. Fortunately, I'm not allergic, but I am VERY vindictive when they sting me. If I'm spraying them with anything, I want them dead before they hit the ground if they were hanging, or dead before they leave the ground if that's where they're coming from. The biggest problem with yellow jackets is the first thing they do when disturbed is spread out and find the target. If they get behind you, you have a problem, because they will secrete pheromones which tell all their buddies where they are. I can deal with one or two stings (albeit the whole colony will pay for it) but having some heart issues makes me think I really don't want to test my immunity to them. Not a way I want to die, for sure.

Delta dust around the opening helps too, they spread it across the colony over the course of a few days and die off. Better alternative than pouring gasoline on the soil and contaminating groundwater and killing off the surrounding insects.