Fixing hole in side of block

[D2Cat]

Joe, all that cleaning of parts, then you paint that engine Japanese taxi blue? Man, Ford grey is easy to find and would be easier on the eye!

 

[fried1765]

Joe, all that cleaning of parts, then you paint that engine Japanese taxi blue? Man, Ford grey is easy to find and would be easier on the eye!

I actually LIKE the "Japanese taxi blue".
It is only a paint color.
The real issue:
Will it run, and...
If so,..... for how many hours?

 

[joesmith123]

Hand sand head hardware

Bucket of diesel, hand sand all crud, especially off the top of bolt, 1000 grit sand paper, then dip parts in part cleaner

Forgot to install those 6 small cylinders, took head off installed them, now put head back on

Rhythm: dip hands and bolt into solvent, dip end of head bolt in some clean grease, hand tighten

Per diagram: they call for stud with plain washer for front and rear of head

Do I have head studs in proper location? I can't find the right washer for that rear stud, I might put spring washer then that big washer

Up close of what I had torque wrench set to, they call for for 58

That bolt when I had split washer, would tear through split washer, had to go find regular washer and finally tightened it to spec

Cleaned phaser, figuring out how it goes on and the hardware, look at diagram now

Almost forgot these little caps go on top of spring

Tightened phaser bolts to 15 foot pound

Moving slow trying not to forget any hardware

I read yalls statements about washers, yes they do seem a bit off

Up close of diagram: they use 190, 190 is PLAIN washer, not split

Either I mixed the parts or it was installed improperly

Soon I go search for plain washers and just use those, and maybe take off those big washers if they are blocking the head cover

 

[Jim L.]

By the way, it is critical to tighten head bolts in sequence shown in WSM; do them in stages; and have the bolt threads oiled. One of the few places that really need the torque wrench.

 

[dragfan66]

Make sure those washers you are using on the head studs don't interfere with the valve cover and gasket installation.

 

[hagrid]

I am leary of this washer business. Definitely opposed to lock washers.

 

[fried1765]

I am leary of this washer business. Definitely opposed to lock washers.

Washers will not matter,......
Joe,..... "will figure it out".

 

[joesmith123]

Yes I now fix the washer situation

Bolts from other engine, take the washers from them, remove all split washers from head, replace with plain washers

OK yes, went back and took out head bolts that had split washer, replaced with washer from other engine, torque everything again to spec

Put phaser back on, don't forget any hardware

yes, installed phaser torqued to 15

My instinct say: give it thick coat of clean diesel, hit it with torch, then spin it by hand applying diesel periodically, keep spinning it, fill it with engine oil half gallon, give power to starter

That should pressurize the engine oil and lube everything, correct?

The way it sit, if starter engaged then oil should shoot vertically through the phaser?

Then dump that oil out, and put in new engine oil for first startup

Video: spinning engine by hand, anything sound wrong? Feels fine spinning

Fill it with half gallon engine oil, give 12 volt to starter...

Poured whole gallon oil into engine using funnel

First test with starter

Now: get bx1500, run jumper cables, do 2nd test

2nd test with more power: shot oil out the side

Put hardware on that hole and run another test trying to make it shoot oil out the top

Up close of diesel and oil mixing coming up from bottom of engine

3rd test, oil gushing to top

Now: close up engine more, do compression test

Close up head do compression tests

None of the fittings fit tight into block, might put plumbing tape if it leaks

Put plumbing tape, ran compression, sits at 250, staying still after 10 minutes

Cylinder 3 won't make it past 140 psi

Cylinder 1 almost at 275 psi

Diagnosing cylinder 3, why compression low: I did not put new rings on that piston, it is the original piston from this engine, 500 hours, there are brand new rings on piston 2 (275 psi) and piston 1 (290 psi)

The engine head has no damage, could it be the adjustments on the phaser? I think it has to be the piston rings

First, get a proper fitting that fits that hole, either make your own or find the right one

 

[MountainMeadows]

Cylinder #3 had the most rust and corrosion around the valve seat area. Did you use the valve grinding compound to lap in the valves? If you had, you would have most likely discovered the valve sealing area was compromised and one possible cause for low compression in that cylinder.

 

[fried1765]

Cylinder #3 had the most rust and corrosion around the valve seat area. Did you use the valve grinding compound to lap in the valves? If you had, you would have most likely discovered the valve sealing area was compromised and one possible cause for low compression in that cylinder.

Shade tree rebuild looking not good!

 

[lynnmor]

I didn't see where he adjusted the valves.

 

[Vlach7]

Joe, if the pistons went in comfortably tight, your valves are adjusted, and that was a wet test, it sounds like your valves are not seated adequately. You need to get the compression within 10% of each other. You put in new valve guides?

 

[dragfan66]

I didn't see where he adjusted the valves.

I don't think he did.
Just slapped the valve train on as it was.
I still suspect valves and seats though.

 

[dragfan66]

Here is a thought that just popped into my pea brain, might work though to address the compression issue on number 3 cylinder.
Back off both rocker arms until there is no contact with the valves on 3.
Spin the engine over with compression gauge installed and see if it builds pressure then.
If the valves are truly seated and lapped in, I wouldn't think that cylinder would build any pressure, or maybe build pressure but not leak down.

Like I said, I have never thought of that concept until just a minute ago.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Put plumbing tape, ran compression, sits at 250, staying still after 10 minutes

The gauge stays at the peak pressure until you hit the reset button. It's not a leakdown indicator.

 

[joesmith123]

Cylinder #3 had the most rust and corrosion around the valve seat area. Did you use the valve grinding compound to lap in the valves? If you had, you would have most likely discovered the valve sealing area was compromised and one possible cause for low compression in that cylinder.

I know it is a bit confusing, the head you are talking about is the damaged head with 2500 hours, this head has 500 hours and no damage, this head was cleaned on page 4 or 5 of this thread, NOT the one more recently cleaned

Shade tree rebuild looking not good!

You just proved that you read my statements

I didn't see where he adjusted the valves.

I dont know how this is done, I need to watch video and comprehend

Joe, if the pistons went in comfortably tight, your valves are adjusted, and that was a wet test, it sounds like your valves are not seated adequately. You need to get the compression within 10% of each other. You put in new valve guides?

I keep studying your statement until I understand what you mean

Piston 3 was the EASIEST to get into the bore, it did NOT have new rings

I don't think he did.
Just slapped the valve train on as it was.
I still suspect valves and seats though.

Yes you are correct I just reinstalled it, those valves and seats are perfect, if I had better internet, I would go back and get you the pictures

Back off both rocker arms until there is no contact with the valves on 3.
Spin the engine over with compression gauge installed and see if it builds pressure then.
If the valves are truly seated and lapped in, I wouldn't think that cylinder would build any pressure, or maybe build pressure but not leak down.

Yes, I keep reading these statements until I comprehend

The gauge stays at the peak pressure until you hit the reset button. It's not a leakdown indicator.

Yes I realized that later after reflection

Diagnostic plan for low compression on cylinder 3:

First, find out the thread pattern of the glow plug, and get that exact fitting. The way I had the fittings in was BARELY holding on, it would not thread in, it would get stuck instantly. the thread is M-(number) and I show picture soon showing the kit has M-(number) matching

Then next thing: learn how to adjust valves, see if you can get high compression

Last resort: drain the oil out, take off oil pan and head, pop out piston, put in new rings

Lesson: ALWAYS change rings when you have pistons out (I even have new rings but was just being cheap/frugal)

Data sheet for chinese compression kit: I need to find exact thread of glowplug and make sure it match with the fitting

New rings: should have put them on piston 3, big mistake

Video: bx1500 knocking, pay attention to the sound it make when shut down. Last night, when charging the battery to do the test on the engine, bx1500 started metal clanking sound, I was far away and it was noticeable. I run and shut down bx1500. I share with you the sound

my suspicion: a knock, connecting rod bearings are loose

It is a sign from nature, to kill one engine and revive another (hopefully)

But at this moment, all 3 engines are broken/incomplete

No worries, I will not run bx1500 at all until fixed, not trying to fix another hole in a block

yes yes I listen to yalls statements, first I let them marinate and we come up with plan

Now: look up the specs of the glowplug and see what the exact thread is and get a fitting that would be tight, then do compression test again

100% wrong thread, dark part of fitting as far in as it goes

Paint showed up, hopefully it match

Instructions: "thin it using naphtha" if spraying it with airless sprayer

Tried all kinds of combinations with air fittings, cannot get anything to thread into block reliably

yes, i search through this forum, @D2Cat said it is M10-1.25

Now, I search for a kit that has this exact thread, AND a gauge that goes up to 500 psi (they call for 450 psi per the spec sheet)

@Ktrim said: "backyard valve job" - yes, I will look into how to do this

Summary: get the right compression kit m10-1.25 that goes up to 500 psi, watch videos about adjusting valves, come up with plan to paint the entire chassis/engine in one shot (if possible)

shoot ideas from the hip about how I can paint the entire chassis/engine in one shot after getting the compression problem solved

Paint plan: take all panels off tractor, leave the back wheels on, clean the entire thing with the usual methods, then spray entire chassis including engine with the enamel paint

https://www.harborfreight.com/diesel-compression-test-kit-58801.html

Here is a kit, that has the m10-1.25, and goes up to 1000 psi, $40

look at this guy adjusting kubota engine valves

Simple: put in the flat metal that they call for, twist other side with flat head, and tighten down on the right thickness flat metal, now I gotta find out what thickness metal they want

Per spec sheet, they ask for 0.009 inch "valve clearance"

I can get this tool from harbor freight? I check now

https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-piece-63665.html

feeler gauge: it has 0.009 inch thickness for this task

Spun engine to make valves level

.009 feeler gauge

Plan: loosen nut on right, put feeler gauge, tighten the screw with flathead, take out feeler gauge, tighten the nut

Adjusted valves: let me know if they look fine

Cylinder 1: 300 psi

Cylinder 2: 300 psi

September 19, 2024

youtu.be

Cylinder 3: 175 psi

I guess take out top and bottom, pop piston out and put new rings

Cleared area, took off head

Drain oil, remove oil pan, remove hardware, pop out piston

Took out piston 3, I point to new gashes in connecting rod from hitting crank

As it was coming out, it was twisted a bit, take connecting rod from other engine, use that connecting rod

 

[fried1765]

I know it is a bit confusing, the head you are talking about is the damaged head with 2500 hours, this head has 500 hours and no damage, this head was cleaned on page 4 or 5 of this thread, NOT the one more recently cleaned



You just proved that you read my statements



I dont know how this is done, I need to watch video and comprehend



I keep studying your statement until I understand what you mean

Piston 3 was the EASIEST to get into the bore, it did NOT have new rings



Yes you are correct I just reinstalled it, those valves and seats are perfect, if I had better internet, I would go back and get you the pictures



Yes, I keep reading these statements until I comprehend



Yes I realized that later after reflection

Diagnostic plan for low compression on cylinder 3:

First, find out the thread pattern of the glow plug, and get that exact fitting. The way I had the fittings in was BARELY holding on, it would not thread in, it would get stuck instantly. I swear the thread is M-(number) and I show picture soon showing the kit has M-(number) matching

Then next thing: learn how to adjust valves, see if you can get high compression

Last resort: drain the oil out, take off oil pan and head, pop out piston, put in new rings

Lesson: ALWAYS change rings when you have pistons out (I even have new rings but was just being cheap/frugal)

"take off oil pan and head........"
And, of course,......reuse head gasket?

 

[Ktrim]

Easy to go in maybe a dead give away!!!! Always new rings when they are removed. And at least a back yard valve job to be sure. Again no one I know has eyes like a micrometer.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Hello Joe,

take the injector out and put a tiny bit of oil into cylinder 3. Turn by hand first if it runs freely, then do compression test. If compression is good it is the piston, if it is still bad it is the valves.

Maybe you can get the oil in through the intake or exhaust port.

Kind regards,
Hugo

 

[joesmith123]

Cylinder 3 fixed, now has 300 psi

New piston, new rings, connecting rod from spare engine

Ready to go into bore

Installed piston with large hose clamp

Put top back on for compression test, now all 3 pistons have 300 psi