Fixing hole in side of block

Ktrim

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B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
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Do yourself a favor and get a cylinder hone for use on a drill. At least get some kind of cross hatch in those cylinders before installing pistons.
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Joe, is your operation taking place in a sand blasting area, desert, or what? I always see the sand in the background.
Pictures are apparently all taken in Joe's,.......... "clean room"!
 
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Hugo Habicht

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G1900
Jun 24, 2024
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Hello Joe,

whatever you do, when you have the head on the engine do not turn it with the starter. Turn it by hand slowly. A valve is bent faster than you can say "upps".

And read and follow all the good advice from others here in the thread.

And yes, all that sand has in your pictures has me worried as well. I do not think I would assemble an engine in that environment.

Kind regards,
Hugo
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Hello Joe,

whatever you do, when you have the head on the engine do not turn it with the starter. Turn it by hand slowly. A valve is bent faster than you can "upps".

And read and follow all the good advice from others here in the thread.

And yes, all that sand has in your pictures has me worried as well. I do not think I would assemble an engine in that environment.

Kind regards,
Hagen
"I do not think I would assemble an engine in that environment" :cry:
Worry not,......
Joe,..... will figure it out!
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
554
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earth
Looks like those 3 dots are off 1 tooth.

View attachment 137612
Yes I am with you, this picture seems that way

When I was rotating them, they were perfect, all of them

One thing for sure, Joe's play by play documentary and photography are spot on.
Do you know how many times I went to take picture, and couldn't because the lens is covered in grease?

I have to put legitimate effort into: cleaning the lens before each picture

If you do this the way I am showing, then all pictures and narratives can be retraced for the rebuild, you'll know what is the next step knowing the step that you took for disassembly

I was not interested in doing any of this, but when I post clear shiny pictures of all the steel, and people comment, THEY make it interesting to me

Tons of solutions came from:

"I am annoyed by this, let me post pictures of it" (sometimes without even the original intention to fix it)

and somehow solutions are eventually discovered, kind people saying true statements that lead to it

Something about saying what I did is a reflection of progress so I do not lose hope, and saying that I will do X or Y forces me to "keep my word"

I always say what happened, then I say the "next goal"

Good catch. Looks like the other side is lined up.
I was very nervous about the gears matching, they definitely did match, I wish I would have taken an up close video, that picture is somewhat at an angle, making that gear appear off

Do yourself a favor and get a cylinder hone for use on a drill. At least get some kind of cross hatch in those cylinders before installing pistons.
There are such low hours on them, and I am tapped out of spending at the moment, but maybe


Pictures are apparently all taken in Joe's,.......... "clean room"!
All of your comments are my favorite, you and jax, are major assets to this thread/project, I cant tell you how valuable you have been for getting my questions answered (or maybe you do know how valuable)

And yes, all that sand has in your pictures has me worried as well. I do not think I would assemble an engine in that environment.
I fully agree with you that this environment is not ideal. But we are testing a theory,

The theory: "Can we rebuild an engine using nothing fancy, right there on the dirt floor, under the trees in the shade?"

Answer: maybe, only thing left is pistons and head

One detail bugging me: the paint is not matching the original kubota paint, do yall think I can get that paint in bulk for low cost and just hit with EXACT matching paint

I want to make it look factory for all the "dinosaurs" to have flashback of when they saw them NEW

Dont worry: 100% I will be doing the EXACT orange that Kubota used on that machine

When you see it, I want to to bring back memories that are 40 years old

I'll look into getting that blue/green that they use for the engine/frame, see if it is affordable

20240914_151109.jpg
20240914_151136.jpg
20240914_151149.jpg


Took off tape, non polar solvent, on a rag, wipe excess paint

20240914_152449.jpg


Use brush apply grease on surface, it hold gasket on, put on oil filter

20240914_153347.jpg


Cannot proceed further without installing big governor spring,

Look at diagram with microscope, install big governor spring

Image 9-14-24 at 3.44 PM.jpeg


Spring 150: Study their line, start at the swivel in lower left, then catches back of left arm, hook up into the swivel, and hook right into left "arm"...

ok i go try now


Put spring on, tested, gave it full throttle, both springs holding

20240914_165117.jpg


Recycled the shim, scrub with diesel, put injection pump in place

20240914_170455.jpg


Moved crankshaft with clamp, put body weight on injection pump, it sprung down, fasten hardware

There is not much else to do at this point but get the pistons ready and installed from other engine

Now: do a full cleanup of shop mostly clearing all walkways, put back all tools, get all the pistons on the table and decide what hardware they need, if any

And yes on the paint, i figure it out

20240914_200544.jpg


Got all pistons and hardware from both engines on table, hit table with compressed air, raked shop floor, put all tools back

20240914_200750.jpg


The only parts left to put on
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Eastham, Ma
Yes I am with you, this picture seems that way

When I was rotating them, they were perfect, all of them



Do you know how many times I went to take picture, and couldn't because the lens is covered in grease?

I have to put legitimate effort into: cleaning the lens before each picture

If you do this the way I am showing, then all pictures and narratives can be retraced for the rebuild, you'll know what is the next step knowing the step that you took for disassembly

I was not interested in doing any of this, but when I post clear shiny pictures of all the steel, and people comment, THEY make it interesting to me

Tons of solutions came from:

"I am annoyed by this, let me post pictures of it" (sometimes without even the original intention to fix it)

and somehow solutions are eventually discovered, kind people saying true statements that lead to it

Something about saying what I did is a reflection of progress so I do not lose hope, and saying that I will do X or Y forces me to "keep my word"

I always say what happened, then I say the "next goal"



I was very nervous about the gears matching, they definitely did match, I wish I would have taken an up close video, that picture is somewhat at an angle, making that gear appear off



There are such low hours on them, and I am tapped out of spending at the moment, but maybe




All of your comments are my favorite, you and jax, are major assets to this thread/project, I cant tell you how valuable you have been for getting my questions answered (or maybe you do know how valuable)



I fully agree with you that this environment is not ideal. But we are testing a theory,

The theory: "Can we rebuild an engine using nothing fancy, right there on the dirt floor, under the trees in the shade?"

Answer: maybe, only thing left is pistons and head

One detail bugging me: the paint is not matching the original kubota paint, do yall think I can get that paint in bulk for low cost and just hit with EXACT matching paint

I want to make it look factory for all the "dinosaurs" to have flashback of when they saw them NEW

Dont worry: 100% I will be doing the EXACT orange that Kubota used on that machine

When you see it, I want to to bring back memories that are 40 years old

I'll look into getting that blue/green that they use for the engine/frame, see if it is affordable

View attachment 137639 View attachment 137640 View attachment 137641

Took off tape, non polar solvent, on a rag, wipe excess paint
Sure looks pretty, just the way it is!
 
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Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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There are many threads on here about the paint with some offering alternatives that are close, cheaper and probably better paint.

But (on earth) you can get the paint from the Kubota dealer in larger quantities and in spray cans. But it is probably more expensive than the normal paint at hardware stores.

I believe this is the part number needed in the gallon can
70000-73358
IMG_0155.png
 
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Ktrim

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Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
430
354
63
Nazareth Pa
There are many threads on here about the paint with some offering alternatives that are close, cheaper and probably better paint.

But (on earth) you can get the paint from the Kubota dealer in larger quantities and in spray cans. But it is probably more expensive than the normal paint at hardware stores.

I believe this is the part number needed in the gallon can
70000-73358
View attachment 137660
That's the grey. He's looking for blue.
 
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Ktrim

Well-known member

Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
430
354
63
Nazareth Pa
Yes I am with you, this picture seems that way

When I was rotating them, they were perfect, all of them



Do you know how many times I went to take picture, and couldn't because the lens is covered in grease?

I have to put legitimate effort into: cleaning the lens before each picture

If you do this the way I am showing, then all pictures and narratives can be retraced for the rebuild, you'll know what is the next step knowing the step that you took for disassembly

I was not interested in doing any of this, but when I post clear shiny pictures of all the steel, and people comment, THEY make it interesting to me

Tons of solutions came from:

"I am annoyed by this, let me post pictures of it" (sometimes without even the original intention to fix it)

and somehow solutions are eventually discovered, kind people saying true statements that lead to it

Something about saying what I did is a reflection of progress so I do not lose hope, and saying that I will do X or Y forces me to "keep my word"

I always say what happened, then I say the "next goal"



I was very nervous about the gears matching, they definitely did match, I wish I would have taken an up close video, that picture is somewhat at an angle, making that gear appear off



There are such low hours on them, and I am tapped out of spending at the moment, but maybe




All of your comments are my favorite, you and jax, are major assets to this thread/project, I cant tell you how valuable you have been for getting my questions answered (or maybe you do know how valuable)



I fully agree with you that this environment is not ideal. But we are testing a theory,

The theory: "Can we rebuild an engine using nothing fancy, right there on the dirt floor, under the trees in the shade?"

Answer: maybe, only thing left is pistons and head

One detail bugging me: the paint is not matching the original kubota paint, do yall think I can get that paint in bulk for low cost and just hit with EXACT matching paint

I want to make it look factory for all the "dinosaurs" to have flashback of when they saw them NEW

Dont worry: 100% I will be doing the EXACT orange that Kubota used on that machine

When you see it, I want to to bring back memories that are 40 years old

I'll look into getting that blue/green that they use for the engine/frame, see if it is affordable

View attachment 137639 View attachment 137640 View attachment 137641

Took off tape, non polar solvent, on a rag, wipe excess paint

View attachment 137642

Use brush apply grease on surface, it hold gasket on, put on oil filter

View attachment 137643

Cannot proceed further without installing big governor spring,

Look at diagram with microscope, install big governor spring

View attachment 137644

Spring 150: Study their line, start at the swivel in lower left, then catches back of left arm, hook up into the swivel, and hook right into left "arm"...

ok i go try now


Put spring on, tested, gave it full throttle, both springs holding

View attachment 137657

Recycled the shim, scrub with diesel, put injection pump in place

View attachment 137658

Moved crankshaft with clamp, put body weight on injection pump, it sprung down, fasten hardware

There is not much else to do at this point but get the pistons ready and installed from other engine

Now: do a full cleanup of shop mostly clearing all walkways, put back all tools, get all the pistons on the table and decide what hardware they need, if any

The only possible holdup to putting pistons inside and closing up engine to do the first startup, I narrate:

I do have genuine piston bushings I want to install (some had gashes), I did damage to one chiseling into it, I do not have press

If we can DIY this without press, it would make zero holdup and we can do the engine test

My idea: sharpen chisel, cut into the bushing damage it off the connecting rod, hit connecting rod HARD with torch, put bushing flat on connecting rod, put on vice, crush into it FLATLY, finangle some DIY setup where we can move the show on the road...

someone come up with something or critique my idea

And yes on the paint, i figure it out

View attachment 137674

Got all pistons and hardware from both engines on table, hit table with compressed air, raked shop floor, put all tools back

View attachment 137675

The only parts left to put on
Those bushings have to be sized, reamed , to fit the wrist pins
 
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Hugo Habicht

Member

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G1900
Jun 24, 2024
83
92
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Ireland
Hello Joe,

the way you fitted spring #140 in your post #512 looks plain wrong to me. This is based on how mechanical engineers mount a spring in a groove or hole typically but not on the sharp edge of the part. I do not have specific knowledge of this engine though.

Kind regards,
Hugo
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
554
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earth
Need a piston ring tool to get pistons into block

20240914_202920.jpg


Connecting rod 3, thought it was bent but looks fine

20240914_205717.jpg


going through with hand and diesel sanding 1000 grit, fully smoothing out connecting rod bearings

20240914_212910.jpg


Applying bit of grease with finger on brand new connecting rod bearing

20240914_213156.jpg


New piston hardware

20240914_214018.jpg


Piston on vice to get new pin

20240914_223720.jpg


Cannot get rings by hand, need squeezing tool

20240914_223725.jpg


Tried these but just ended up cutting my hand from all the sharp objects on top of engine

20240915_140647.jpg


This is the paint on the way, got one gallon to do both tractors entire chassis and engines, it should match good enough

20240915_141236.jpg


Harbor freight: got piston ring tool for $11, got other things i can use to squeeze stuff, and got gasket maker for little details, and got big c clamp to increase likelihood of solving issues

20240915_141621.jpg


Up close of the bell housing non painted, hopefully the paint matches but not a biggie
 
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Henro

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May 24, 2019
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Joe, since you like to make do with what you have, I wonder if you could use a hose clamp rather than the proper tool to get the rings compressed into the piston so you can insert the piston?

You might have to use multiple hose clamps, but it might work…
 
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Lil Foot

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Sanding bearings? Piston in hard jaws in vise? hmmmm.....
 
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Ktrim

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B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
430
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Nazareth Pa
Lubriplate engine assembly lube.
Need ring compressor. Hose clamps will not allow piston to slide out therefor damaging rings.
 
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MountainMeadows

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Joe, I would not recommend re-using the old bearings otherwise your good block might get a hole knocked in the side of it.

You need to get new bearings and check the clearance with Plastigage to make sure they are within specs.

 
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chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
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Sanding bearings? Piston in hard jaws in vise? hmmmm.....

You never know how things will go if you don't have all the right tools at hand. Back when some of the guys here were either not born or were still pooping yellow (1992) I had an experience that I can somewhat relate to this thread. There's a whole long story about how a German from Texas driving on the ice in Pennsylvania lost control of a rental box truck towing another car totaled my 2YO company Chevy 4X4. Our Purchasing VP found another truck that almost matched mine EXCEPT it didn't have a few things mine had, the biggest was A/C. He said I could transplant anything from one to the other, so challenge accepted.

Early one Saturday morning I drove the replacement truck to its recently-deceased brother. The wrecked truck had a great factory sound system with graphic equalizer, etc that were the first to be removed. Then I went to work on the A/C. Stripped everything but the dash controls for the HVAC. After taping the open ends of the removed components I brought everything home and hosed the coils thoroughly. Installation was straight-forward. There was one connection that somehow lost its O-ring. No problem, had an assortment from a faucet replacement. There were dimples in the firewall indicating where the three screws went for the accumulator. I think the compressor replaced an idler pulley and it may have even used the same serpentine belt. Biggest challenge was getting the evaporator coil installed under the dash. There may still be one or two screws missing on the back side.

The existing (heating only switch) controlled fan speed and the levers to select where the air went were fine as well. I tastefully (IMHO) added a rocker switch on the dash connected in series with the LP cutoff switch. When it was all buttoned up I dumped cans of R12 till things started to sweat. Finished the job with daylight to spare. It still worked fine when I got a new replacement in 2000.

I bring this up because there was no vacuum pump, gages or any of the "real" tools used for the operation. I have done A/C work since then using all the proper tools and following instructions to a "T". All went well. That includes replacing a compressor on another Chevy, expansion valve on the L4240 and various recharges of vehicles and whole-house units.
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
554
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earth
Put piston 1 in engine

20240915_142250.jpg


Up close on brand new bearing, look how dark it come out, my suspicion they cook them in oven at the end of their process

20240915_143748.jpg





20240915_145708.jpg




20240915_150039.jpg




20240915_152323.jpg



20240915_153416.jpg



20240915_153431.jpg


Assortment of pictures:

put piston with serial facing injection pump, tighten ring tool, smack piston with wood into block, go under block, line piston with crankshaft, go back up smack further down, bring all the way to crank, hand tighten hardware

Cleaning setup: I have non polar solvent in a pot close by, dip hand in to keep oil and dirt off hands and parts

Now: read instruction on foot pound torque wrench

Rod bolt torque: 30 foot pound

20240915_161331.jpg


30 ft pound torque, bent keepers inward

20240915_203440.jpg


Piston 3: it's in good shape, clean it and reassemble

20240915_211824.jpg


Greatest setup for ridding crud around rings: 1000 grit sand paper, dip in diesel, do all ring area, hit with compressed air
 
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