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I'd also suggest you work through a few hard weekends using the cans and get a better idea what your fuel consumption will look like. I run mine off of a single 5 gallon can and have never run through that in a single weekend.

I would suspect a valve problem at this point since the weak behavior is definitely isolated to certain functions. I would pull it apart if it were mine.

015, 024 Super, and 036 Pro Stihls, and a Skil that are runners.

I think I have a soft copy on my computer at work. Send me an email and I'll get you a copy next week. I think it was scanned, so the quality is not great, it may not have the detail you are looking for. I've done one of my curl cylinders but it's been 4-5 years ago.

I don't remember exactly what the numbers were, but early on you mentioned a lead wire squish gap number on the order of 0.8-1mm if I remember right. I don' t know the bore so did not check your gasket math. So if the 0.025" gasket thickness change equates to 2.8cc, then 0.9mm would be about...

I would definitely measure the head chamber volume. I would think a syringe would be fine for a gross check. I'd just use fuel if it was me. I know the gasket thickness doesn't seem like much, but it may be a larger player percentage wise on the squish volume. Hard to say from here having no...

Diesel/kerosene/solvent are all in the same family and smell similar. Could have been a sloppy filter change or used solvent to clean up a gear oil mess.

Your are on the right track now by using the pins only to set the elevation of the shanks. I will echo, add more steel as others have suggested to increase the span the load is reacted over, bottom side on the bottom, front side on the top. Keep at it with the stick welder, I find it much more...

I think you need the intake valves to open, as it normally takes several revolutions to maximize pressure on a compression test. I also think it would be worth it to compare old and new head gasket thicknesses and chamber volumes. Any chance the decompression is rail is involved? Have you...

Any chance valve timing is incorrect?

I've only split one hose, and it turned out to be no big deal at all. Took the old one down to the dealer and they made me a new one while I waited and the cost was very reasonable. Back up and running in a couple hours.

My gear is all pretty old, and it will fall in a matter of hours, not days. I know that doesn't help your perception of normal, but it may be in your case. What does your dealer say about it?

I would say your demand for a MMM is what is limiting you to a SCUT, not the cash. With a $10K budget, you would be better served to buy an older L series, 4WD with larger loader, and a riding lawn mower. You'll get a lot more capability and versatility that way.

I'd buy a set of shanks and teeth and either build your own or bolt the teeth right to your bucket. Do you guys with tooth bars take them on/off often?

I think you could go either way depending on the size/weight of your tractor and the type of ground you have. I am guessing that your tractor and mine are similar sized, but not sure. I have no problem with my 5 footer, and often have wished I had gone with a 6 footer. There's no clear answer...

I wonder if you could marry up a spline socket with a sprocket. Turn to fit and weld together. Anyone use a spline socket to turn their crank? I was wishing I had one for mine a few weeks ago when I adjusted the valves.

I'm curious about your project and how the teeth may be affected. Please take us along for the ride.

I have a set of Rankin clamp on forks, and they are very handy indeed. My bucket has not bent, and I use it hard for all kinds of jobs. Go for it, you'll be glad you did.

I use the "gas" pedal most of the time, especially when changing direction often. I only set the hand throttle when I have a longer run and don't expect to need to change gear, stop, back up, etc. or when running my PTO implements like my backhoe, chipper, or splitter. With a gear drive, I...

Boy, that looks pretty nice, but I think you may have been duped. Looks like a repaint at minimum based on the darker color and the painted grille. Still a very nice tractor for the age, a whole lot nicer than mine.